Thanks, man. I was afraid of that about the KZ 75. Ken says it can use any old comressor, but I suspected that was not the case it you wanted to run it hard. My current billets start off at 1 to 1.5 wide x 3tall x 6 long. Would those be considered small in your world or more like medium? BTW, If I had the money, I would buy the 110 Say Mak, but at$12-13K, it has gone up like $4K in the last 8 or so years, so it now costs what the comparable Kuhn did in say 2009=10. Of course, that Kuhn is now like $18k or more.
Sorry for the late reply, been real busy lately.
So Ken's hammer could easily handle billets that size, they're "small" to me (and tiny to Devin), but that's relative, and I'd consider them "medium" to most, however, you'd need a real compressor, and you'd need to crank the PSI and stroke length up beyond what Ken recommends for general forging. Ken's hammers offer exceptional (the best maybe?) control with the steam-hammer style linkages, and good air/power ratios for general ornamental work, but he hasn't designed them for heavy drawing. Bear in mind I used an original style (Ken's 75 is based on the second version C-frame style Bull hammer) 75lb Bull hammer for years making damascus as my only hammer, but that one was actually just shy of 100lb actual Tup weight without the dies, and Trozac's original control scheme setup could handle being run at very high PSI (I ran mine at 150 PSI and would constantly out-run a real industrial Ingersol T-30 dual stage 5hp), and adjusted to very long stroke length (sacrificing BPM, but gaining HUGE in power), which made it run like a much heavier hammer and draw insanely well for it's size. It had a longer overall stroke also, which is highly helpful when tuning to weld taller billets.
Ken's hammer can sip air and do really great fine work, and hit hard when tuned up, but it definitely needs a minimum dual stage 5hp 80gal industrial that can pump 15 CFM or so MINIMUM to run like that. My friend has one, and has had to upgrade compressors a couple of times since, because he made the mistake of thinking he could get by with less. Yes, in a light use scenario you could, but he's a full time blacksmith and works a lot of bigger stock than what you'll see Ken or others working with these hammers in videos.
Figure a 1.5x3xwhatever long billet is essentially like working 2.5"+ diameter (just to throw out a number) round bar, or worse, then compare that to examples you see. Bear in mind also, that smiths working with mild or wrought, work at welding heats continually also, so whatever work you see on smaller stock, just doesn't really compare.
All that said, it's a great hammer, I'd still like to buy one, although I wish I had gotten one when they were first offered and cheaper, and I've already got 45 or so CFM of air.
Personally if I was buying new, I'd buy a high frame Anyang 88 (it's the sweet spot for power vs/control IMO, it's not so heavy that you have to really worry about over-working a blade, but it'll do big work easily, I'd compare it to any 150-200lb Little Giant style mechanical). My old friend Zoe Crist made all his damascus with an older 88lb Striker (shittier version of the anyang from the same factory), and a press for a very long time. Eventually he added a rolling mill and a larger press, but never felt the need for a larger hammer was justified.
Personally, I love power hammers, so much so that I rarely use a press, except for a few patterns, but that's not to say it's wise of me. I'll always be able to rationalize a larger hammer, but if I had to pick *one*, especially for a single hammer, buy once, buying new, scenario, the high-frame (or whatever they call the longer stroke length one) Anyang 88, is the easy choice. Honestly, it's a smarter choice even than a Nazel or Chambersburg if one could be had for the same money, since most wont have the ability, equipment, or inclination to handle refurb and repairs. The Anyangs are well supported, and have really had a lot of the short-comings and kinks worked out in the last decade by Anyang USA. Now me personally, I'm not likely to ever buy new, and don't mind (enjoy) working on machinery, so that makes it a completely different choice.
