W.I.P. First Fighter

[bobbywett]

Hey Folks,

Here's what I'm working on today. She will be what I'll call my first fighting blade. Right around 13" in OAL length, with a blade of just under 8". The blade is forged fro 1/8" 1095, the guard is forged mild steel, ferrule is copper, wood is maple. If all goes well, she should come in around 8 oz. Fingers are crossed!

Thanks for Any Suggestions or Comments,

Bob,

Hershey, PA

P.S. She'll have one copper pin as well.

P.S.S. You can't see from blurry photo, but that's a Buffalo Nickle used for size comparison.

 

[Ken Hurst]

The grain runs counter to the centerline of the tang. This makes for as week grip as any downward force applied to the back end of grip is asking for it to break --- might never happen But. In rifle/shotgun stock work this is always considered. To do otherwise isn't considered wise unless client agrees to poor layout. I don't know any stockmaker/wood worker who would accept a commision where poor layout was acceptable --- the workers name goes along with the finished product our name is our reputation. FWIW

Otherwise, I like what you are creating & congrat. you on your endeavor. Incidently, one of the most popular stains used on maple during the 18th-19th century on maple was 2 parts nitric acid to 10 parts water. Place in large open jaw (outside), find real cast iron and leave it in the acid sol. , sol. will start to fume. After a few weeks, the acid will have depleted itself & stain is ready to use. The first few coats will horrify you but the color changes after you apply the first coat of linseed based oil. The finished look will be similar to an aged Pa/Ky. rifle stock. FWIW too.

 

[bobbywett]

Thanks Ken,

I learned something new today:

The grain runs counter to the centerline of the tang. This makes for as week grip as any downward force applied to the back end of grip is asking for it to break --- might never happen But.

I'll be sure to manage the tang/wood grain layout on future endeavors.

I'm going to try this recipe on a knife.....not sure when, but I'm going to give it a go!

Incidently, one of the most popular stains used on maple during the 18th-19th century on maple was 2 parts nitric acid to 10 parts water. Place in large open jaw (outside), find real cast iron and leave it in the acid sol. , sol. will start to fume. After a few weeks, the acid will have depleted itself & stain is ready to use. The first few coats will horrify you but the color changes after you apply the first coat of linseed based oil. The finished look will be similar to an aged Pa/Ky. rifle stock. FWIW too.

Thanks for the feedback, I greatly appreciate the advise.

Bob