W2 Recurve with photos

S

stefanj

Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
748
Here is the big Recurve (correct title?, maybe medium recurve) that I have been working on.
This is my first real knife as I call it (good steel). The handle is wrapped and stabilized with superglue (works pretty good).
Already spent time chopping tree branches (small to about 1 1/2")!! I do know that I still need work on my grinding of my blade edges (not very symetrical on both sides). Part of my problem is I keep trying to free hand with my files and the other problem is that I started filing with a twist in the blade which didn't help me out.

I used satanite to keep the back soft for when I hardened the blade and placed it in the quench (P50 which worked great). I could see a nice little hamon, however with all my sanding and polishing it can barely be seen from certain angles. I heated the blade to non-magnetic and removed placing it into the quench. The blade did not warp which amazed me (I worked hard to get the satanite coating equal on each side to help prevent warping when being placed in the quench and I had the blade placed on its back in the forge as I was afraid to lay it on its side for this stage (call me a chicken).

I still need to work on sharpening (stone and oil), I do have some patches of hair missing (trial and error/testing of the blade) but I have not yet been able to establish and evenly sharp blade for the entire length (need to spend more time working on it).
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I am working on a big bowie if I can ever get some time to work on it!
My next project is to do some forge welding. I want to forge weld some W2 in between a rail road spike using the W2 for the blade edge. I want to try and make something unique for my Battalion Commander who is retiring from the Army.

Thanks for everyones advice and if anybody can give me some more I would appreciate it!!

Stefan
 
The hamon will sort of disappear as you get the sanding finer and finer. The polishing can almost obliterate it. You need to etch the blade lightly before the final polish. Use diluted FC, or lemon juice. Wipe/rub it over the blade surface, concentrating on the hamon areas ( This is usually done before the handle is installed, but it is not too late to do it still. I would wrap the handle in several layers of Saran wrap ,just to keep it clean.). After the etch, neutralize with windex, and then give it a careful final polish with 2500 wet or dry lubricated with water ( add a little baking soda to the water as a wetting agent). Next take some Flitz or Simichrome, and put a small amount on a soft cotton pad ( a gun cleaning patch works great).Carefully polish the blade surface ABOVE the hamon and edge, following along the hamon shape. This will darken the metal and give it a great shine. Clean up and you will have a great blade with a distinct hamon.Try it, you will be quite pleased.Here is a short article on doing a final polish (aimed at Japanese blades, but the procedure is the same):http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htm
Stacy
 
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