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W34 Ake Head
- Thread starter AR-Trvlr
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It looks like it has a lot of tempered bit left to work with. You could sharpen it and simply follow the existing grind. There is more wear on the toe than heel - you could reprofile it and it would look good/function well.
Without a picture of the poll face I am assuming the poll damage looks like cuts and mushrooming as opposed to "spalling or cracking" from poor construction. It was used as a hammer. Looks like that use maybe deformed the eye a little and that is why you are questioning the eye size bottom to top? If it is more deformed than what I see in the picture or you know you or someone you know will be leery to use it then I personally wouldn't. It does look as if the hammering was focused on the bottom of the poll and deformed the base of the eye.
If you have calipers you could make sure. Having it in hand would make a difference in figuring it out.
I've had several Warren and Lakeside axes stamped with the W and a number and somewhere here is conversation as to if the W is "Warren", "weight", and the number corresponds to the year produced. Those I am thinking of were all marked somehow beyond just the W. I'm inclined to think it's not the weight in those cases as many of the numbers don't reflect the weight of the head. Those seem to make good axes. Can't say that is what you have there but that it is what it brought to mind.
Depending on the answer to your eye question it otherwise looks like it could be rehabbed and used. Just depends on what you are willing to do to fix the eye if need be.
Without a picture of the poll face I am assuming the poll damage looks like cuts and mushrooming as opposed to "spalling or cracking" from poor construction. It was used as a hammer. Looks like that use maybe deformed the eye a little and that is why you are questioning the eye size bottom to top? If it is more deformed than what I see in the picture or you know you or someone you know will be leery to use it then I personally wouldn't. It does look as if the hammering was focused on the bottom of the poll and deformed the base of the eye.
If you have calipers you could make sure. Having it in hand would make a difference in figuring it out.
I've had several Warren and Lakeside axes stamped with the W and a number and somewhere here is conversation as to if the W is "Warren", "weight", and the number corresponds to the year produced. Those I am thinking of were all marked somehow beyond just the W. I'm inclined to think it's not the weight in those cases as many of the numbers don't reflect the weight of the head. Those seem to make good axes. Can't say that is what you have there but that it is what it brought to mind.
Depending on the answer to your eye question it otherwise looks like it could be rehabbed and used. Just depends on what you are willing to do to fix the eye if need be.
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Here's a double bit with the W34 stamps, from an old listing. It's also stamped with a 5, which I'm assuming is the weight, since the listing said the head weighed 4+ pounds. The seller thought the W stands for Warren.
AR-Trvlr
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I measured the eye. The top (i.e. flatter side with more peening) measures 0.71" x 1.96". The bottom, with the beard, measures 0.825" x 2.19" Yes, I could flip it, but wouldn't it be wrong to have the beard on the top edge?
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AR-Trvlr
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It looks like the bottom of the eye is larger than the top. That is due to striking damage. Unless you want to push the eye back in you aren't going to have the intended flare or widening at the top. It's designed to be wider at the top so the wedge will spread the tongue to either side to lock it on there.
That head is not designed to be hung upside down. You are correct in you definitely should put the "beard" down if you do hang it.
Maybe someone can recommend a fix for it. Depending on your skill level it could be worth it. It's got character.
Someone might say just run it as is but even if you get it secured it might prove to be a bear to hang straight on the handle.
I could be all wrong as well and it might just be a matter of dropping it lower on the handle to account for the space left from the eye being pushed out and a creative/careful wedge job.
That head is not designed to be hung upside down. You are correct in you definitely should put the "beard" down if you do hang it.
Maybe someone can recommend a fix for it. Depending on your skill level it could be worth it. It's got character.
Someone might say just run it as is but even if you get it secured it might prove to be a bear to hang straight on the handle.
I could be all wrong as well and it might just be a matter of dropping it lower on the handle to account for the space left from the eye being pushed out and a creative/careful wedge job.
AR-Trvlr
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There is a small lip from the peening, but I doubt it will amount to .25" on the length or .1" on the width.
I almost wonder if it was a factory mistake, and the users kept beating on the top of the head to re-seat it. Ergo all of the peening.
I almost wonder if it was a factory mistake, and the users kept beating on the top of the head to re-seat it. Ergo all of the peening.
maybe the steel folding Inside the eye top is only superficial and you might be able to use a rat tail or convex file to remove the fold or burr Inside the eye. sometime i have to clean the Inside of the rim of some of the eyes on some axes that have been beaten up over décades of different owners.
as for if the head is Worth hanging, you only would decide that as many have rehung axe that looked in far worst shape than yours.
Cheers!
as for if the head is Worth hanging, you only would decide that as many have rehung axe that looked in far worst shape than yours.
Cheers!
Square_peg
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Not a stupid question at all. That's a very common problem.
That's exactly how to fix that problem.
But what he's got is an axe with a mis-formed eye - larger at the bottom than the top. That's an issue but not a show stopper. The key is if the center of the eye is smaller than the top. As long as this is true the axe can be hung securely. If the wedged top is larger than the center then the axe head won't come loose. Just hang it and wedge it like we all do - leave the haft protruding 1/4" through the eye and wedge it. The wedged/widened protruding haft will stay put. It wouldn't hurt to soak the top of the haft and the eye with Swel-lock (or generically DPG) when you're done.
Square_peg
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You should cut the haft 1/4" above the eye before wedging.
But at this point you might just cut off either side at 1/4" and then see if you can drive the wedge any further. It may be tight now.
But at this point you might just cut off either side at 1/4" and then see if you can drive the wedge any further. It may be tight now.