wa handle construction

H

Hesparus

Joined
Oct 31, 2004
Messages
1,442
Hi Everyone,

I recently completed my first wa handle on a 4" petty:
482515_457378120998576_1388212552_n.jpg

Will this construction method withstand heavy use? I'm concerned about shearing force exerted on the inner piece, when pressure is put on the blade. I will be using acraglass for future handles. Should I add pins to the handle (just the handle, not going through the tang) to reinforce it?
Here it is finished:
31442_459835014086220_2098281334_n.jpg


Thanks,
Chris
 
How heavy is heavy, Chris? A kitchen knife and should not be subjected to extreme forces. I think your handle construction is fine and that pins in a handle like this distract from the aesthetics.

Cheers!
Mike
 
I did my first Wa handle about a year ago. I was concerned with strength as well, since IME, wood tends to split with maddening regularity. A 0-90-0 degree 3 piece laminate ferrule was my solution. Here is a video. Now I don't know that all that strength is necessary, so I'm just going with 2 different woods for contrast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R86IU57mH4E
 
The main place any problem arises is the front of the handle. Using good grade materials, and closely fitting the center piece to the tang will help reduce this. Strong adhesives are a must. Tightly grained and tough materials, like buffalo horn or African Blackwood, make good center pieces. As mentioned, adding a front ferrule/bolster of horn, ivory, strong tight grained wood, or metal totally solves the problem. The rotation of the grain at 90° as me2 mentioned makes a very strong and good looking front.
 
Stacey, you didn't mention it specifically, but how does ebony work as ferrule material? I got a block that should give me enough material for 5-7 ferrules, but if it's not tough/strong enough, I'll use it for something else. To the OP, I like the simplicity of the inner form held by the two outer blocks. I may give that a try on my next one. The current blade is too thin for that (0.05"). Any strength issues showing up with that method yet?
 
Ebony works well, but pay attention to the grain directions. It can tend to become chippy, and will form minute cracks if overheated in sanding/buffing.
Blackwood has a more curly grain, and is tougher.
 
Crud. I had a chance to get blackwood. I plan on all hand shaping, so heat shouldn't be an issue.
 
I should have mentioned that the inner piece is linen micarta and the outer pieces are dymondwood. Using a top shelf epoxy (like acraglas), will this be strong enough to not need a ferrule?
 
I'd think it would be fine. You're basically using the handle material to thickenthe tang to a comfortable level. Its nearly a full length tang.
 
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