Wa handle tang length?

weo

weo

Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
3,116
Hello all. Did a search but didn't find an answer. Redirect me if needed.

I understand the thought that with hidden tangs, the longer the better. Especially on knives that are going to see heavier use. However, I only use hidden tangs on my kitchen knives.

How short can a tang be and still not fail in the kitchen? I'm not talking a cleaver or heavy chopper, mainly for slicers. I have difficulty drilling deep holes in my blocks, and have to spend many hours scraping with smaller files I've modified, and wonder if I could minimize this by shortening my tangs.
Thanks
~billyO
 
One piece or two piece wa handle? If two piece, just use a slotted dowel for the core.
 
I'm mainly talking about 1 piece handles. I've had no problems with multiple piece handles (so far...)
 
weo said:
Hello all. Did a search but didn't find an answer. Redirect me if needed.

I understand the thought that with hidden tangs, the longer the better. Especially on knives that are going to see heavier use. However, I only use hidden tangs on my kitchen knives.

How short can a tang be and still not fail in the kitchen? I'm not talking a cleaver or heavy chopper, mainly for slicers. I have difficulty drilling deep holes in my blocks, and have to spend many hours scraping with smaller files I've modified, and wonder if I could minimize this by shortening my tangs.
Thanks
~billyO
Click to expand...

YOu can buy longer than usual drill bits to get most of it out. Then a little usage of a broach https://www.riversidemachine.net/ecommerce/knife-fixtures/riverside-handle-broach.html

should make it go faster for you.
 
You could always drill a dowel hole it the butt end and use a matching or even contrasting plug. If you chose an appropriate dowel material, you might not even have to use a plug. Drill a, big hole 80-90% of the way in, the tang thickness sized pilot hole the rest of the way from the other end and then extend the slot out from the small hole at the front.
 
The Uncle Al ones are too wide for this task. Plus, having had one of those, it is the one piece of gear that I would not buy from Riverside. Not a very good design IMO, unlike Al's other stuff. I have my two custom 1/8 and 3/16 broaches that John Perry made for me years ago. Night and day.
 
jdm61 said:
The Uncle Al ones are too wide for this task. Plus, having had one of those, it is the one piece of gear that I would not buy from Riverside. Not a very good design IMO, unlike Al's other stuff. I have my two custom 1/8 and 3/16 broaches that John Perry made for me years ago. Night and day.
Click to expand...
in agreement with you on this one, I also have the Riverside broach and was disappointed, thought about grinding it down so its not as wide. The best one I have is one that I made from W1 square key stock
 
I dont think you need much more than 1-1/2 to 2 inches in terms of strength but you may want to consider balance as well. Using a ferrule material along with spacers and main handle is how I go about making up for the needed depth. I use standard size drills and a modified sheet rock saw as a broach. I fit this one up and glued in less than an hour with basic tools. It use to take me 2 or 3 times as long, the right size/shape tools really make a difference. For a one piece handle you pretty much need to use the dowel method.
gU6eNVd.jpg
 
Last edited:
weo said:
Hello all. Did a search but didn't find an answer. Redirect me if needed.

I understand the thought that with hidden tangs, the longer the better. Especially on knives that are going to see heavier use. However, I only use hidden tangs on my kitchen knives.

How short can a tang be and still not fail in the kitchen? I'm not talking a cleaver or heavy chopper, mainly for slicers. I have difficulty drilling deep holes in my blocks, and have to spend many hours scraping with smaller files I've modified, and wonder if I could minimize this by shortening my tangs.
Thanks
~billyO
Click to expand...

It depends on the handle material as well. I like to go almost through the end with softer burls. I would probably trust 2.5” in g-10, but I haven’t done it. I typically go 2/3 to 3/4 the length of the handle.

Check out the needle rasps at Lee valley. They cut quite aggressively. They are a real time saver.
 
jdm61 said:
The Uncle Al ones are too wide for this task. Plus, having had one of those, it is the one piece of gear that I would not buy from Riverside. Not a very good design IMO, unlike Al's other stuff. I have my two custom 1/8 and 3/16 broaches that John Perry made for me years ago. Night and day.
Click to expand...

Bruce Bump had one for sale as well at one time.
 
weo said:
Hello all. Did a search but didn't find an answer. Redirect me if needed.

I understand the thought that with hidden tangs, the longer the better. Especially on knives that are going to see heavier use. However, I only use hidden tangs on my kitchen knives.

How short can a tang be and still not fail in the kitchen? I'm not talking a cleaver or heavy chopper, mainly for slicers. I have difficulty drilling deep holes in my blocks, and have to spend many hours scraping with smaller files I've modified, and wonder if I could minimize this by shortening my tangs.
Thanks
~billyO
Click to expand...

Easy way for me is to do this way ............Blade is 1.5mm thick

bDi7LfK.jpg

73C0Yh7.jpg

opening on both piece of wood is 2mm ;)
L8OAebD.jpg

0P3tYHL.jpg
 
jdm61 said:
I have my two custom 1/8 and 3/16 broaches that John Perry made for me years ago. Night and day.
Click to expand...

Any pictures??? I've been thinking of making my own from one of my surplus small files.
 
Go at least halfway, ideally 2/3rds.

As for it taking a long time, you just gotta learn some new tricks. I drill 2 1/8th inch holes in handle material, then drill 1 3/16 or 1/4 inch hole centered between those 2, that middle hole ends up breaking through the other 2 holes. And i use 5+inch long drill bits that i have a few hundred of from machinist grandfather when he passed so depth never an issue. then i just use a homemade broaching type tool(looks like a lockpick with 3 teeth) that i made out of 1/8th inch thick 1080 and hardened to high 50's. i start in the middle wider hole, and scrape a few dozen strokes on both sides and it's usually done at that point. Occasional fine tuning of the hole needed, but generally mine take 15min tops to create and seat the tang.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top