Walk and Talk - Snap questions

thawk

thawk

Joined
Oct 28, 2006
Messages
5,978
What causes a knife to have a strong walk, but a weak talk?

In particular, it's a stockman clip blade. The knife is probably 30 yrs old, but unused. It springs open, as normal, but doesn't snap much at all when closing. I've had some similar to this that came back to life when I sprayed tri-flow into the joint, but this one it didn't make any difference. The spey and sheep foot behave normally.

I've wondered as well what it is that causes some knives to have so much snap you better make sure your finger isn't in the way when you start to close it.

Is this what some of you guys mean when you talk about "fit"?
 
There are several factors that affect "snap". The geometry of the tang has to be right first off. It has to have a corner that lifts the spring a little, then releases it just right to "push" the blade into a firmly closed (or open) position. If it doesn't snap shut, first look at the resistance when you open it. If it opens "weakly" you have a geometry or spring problem, especially if it snaps into the open position O.K. Maybe an off-center pivot hole or a scant corner.
But if it is firm to open, then you need to see if the blade "tightens" as it approaches the closed position. I found a kinked liner in one knife that was the culprit. There is a way to tap the blade loose a tiny bit to free this up, but it should be done by a knowledgeable person to minimize wobble after you free it!
Then there is a poorly smoothed mating surface between tang and spring. I had a very rusty UNUSED knife that sounded like it had coarse sand in it; UGLY. I improved it by putting valve ginding compound on the surfaces carefully and opening and closing it many times, washing it out, and repeating until it improved. A mystery knife made in Germany, no one has been able to tell me anything about the brand. Here it is; it didn't used to look like a knife!!
fullclinestewartcopy.jpg

O.K. I get side tracked easily.
Anyway I hope there are some clues in this that help!
 
Charlie, you 'bout said it all. A good match up between the angles on the spring and tang is neccesery, and like charlie already mentioned, if the liners are smashed in or one is kinked it will cause the tang to rub when closing, I find this is one of the most common problems. Sometimes you can kink and spring to improve the walk and talk, sometimes they are too worn to do anything with unless you are a good welder.
 
The best "talking" knives that I have are all female !:D

Something like the difference between largemouth and smallmouth bass.

Sorry to interupt a serious thread.
BTW,I have an old NYK hammer brand that walks and talks at the half-stop.That,and the strength of the springs,amazed me when I first got it.
The pattern number is 3 digits so BRL's opinion was that it was made before 1920.

hamrear




hamsh

ham





Ron
 
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