Walker Wax

[AVigil]

Picked up some Walker Wax at TruGrit and am really liking it.

It has micron level abrasive, polishing compound, cleaning agent, corrosion and degradation preventative, antifungal agent and specialized waxes.

It is easy to apply and leaves a nice finish of protection.

I have been looking for something for awhile like this and am glad to have finally found it.

Anyone else tried it out and using it?

 

[coldsteelburns]

How is it applied? Is it used on a buffer or a cork belt or just rubbed on with a cloth by hand, like flitz or something? Pardon my ignorance here

~Paul

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My YT Channel Lsubslimed

 

[Rhinoknives1]

I have some Walker Wax around here someplace? It looked like someone put the wax in the tub with a dirty stick when it arrived.

Not worth the hassle of sending it back. Really Adam I din't find it worked any better than the Rain Dance auto wax I starting using after I ran out of Ren wax. I find that the comparatively cheap auto waxes give a great shine and protect against oxidation as well or better than any of the expensive stuff.

A lot of technology goes into polymer auto waxes, these days.

 

[John Katt]

It has micron level abrasive, polishing compound, cleaning agent, corrosion and degradation preventative, antifungal agent and specialized waxes.

Now if you could get it to do the dishes and fold socks, you would really have something ;0)

 

[Overmountain]

All those 'high speed low drag' waxes and other snake oils make (made? ) the rounds in my other hobby; cars and bikes...

This is just my opinion; and this subject has a broad range of other ones:
The more detergents and additives you add to a wax, the less wax you get with it. The most revered waxes in the car scene are mostly ultra-pure mixes of carnauba and bee's wax. Some of the best wood finishes are the tried and true oils and waxes. .. And there is no replacement for a steady diet of finer and finer grits to get to a truly polished metal surface. If really polished to mirror shine, there is no home for corrosion to start. Thus, just keeping it oiled and/or dried will do all you ever needed.

Cheers.
-Eric

 

[Overmountain]

How is it applied? Is it used on a buffer or a cork belt of just rubbed on with a cloth by hand, like flitz or something? Pardon my ignorance here

~Paul

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My YT Channel Lsubslimed

You just open the can and set it next to the desired target: It applies itself. J/k. But JKatt made my thought train head that way...

 

[AVigil]

How is it applied? Is it used on a buffer or a cork belt of just rubbed on with a cloth by hand, like flitz or something? Pardon my ignorance here

~Paul

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My YT Channel Lsubslimed

You put it on with a micro cloth wait 30 seconds and buff it off.

 

[AVigil]

All those 'high speed low drag' waxes and other snake oils make (made? ) the rounds in my other hobby; cars and bikes...

This is just my opinion; and this subject has a broad range of other ones:
The more detergents and additives you add to a wax, the less wax you get with it. The most revered waxes in the car scene are mostly ultra-pure mixes of carnauba and bee's wax. Some of the best wood finishes are the tried and true oils and waxes. .. And there is no replacement for a steady diet of finer and finer grits to get to a truly polished metal surface. If really polished to mirror shine, there is no home for corrosion to start. Thus, just keeping it oiled and/or dried will do all you ever needed.

Cheers.
-Eric

Sure I can see that.

Mirror finish is the best at keeping away corrosion, just to bad not many buyers who actually use the knife in the field want a mirror finish anymore. Also for those who leave a knife in a leather sheath to long, extra protection may come in handy.

 

[Overmountain]

Sure I can see that.

Mirror finish is the best at keeping away corrosion, just to bad not many buyers who actually use the knife in the field want a mirror finish anymore. Also for those who leave a knife in a leather sheath to long, extra protection may come in handy.

No joke. I know I'm certainly in a majority here when I say things like 'treat your Knife like you treat your prized handgun...' You wouldn't go upland bird hunting with your $10k H&H O/U and then throw it in a gun sock leaning up in the back of your closet... Why on earth would you treat your knives that way? Especially a one-off hand made Knife?! Out in the rest of the world though this is extremism. I'm a knife/gun nazi!

I wasn't banging your wax either... Just, sometimes the companies have a way of wording things any good wax already does (waterproofing, rust inhibiting, sheen building) six different ways, add two drops of something you can't pronounce, and then call it a miracle finish. Or they try to mix several things to skip a step... Polish and wax in one step? A good wax would kill the abrasive qualities of the polish, and then also cement some of the grit within the protective layer... Fine for what most people consider a mirror finish, but show it to someone like good old Nick Wheeler and ask if it is thoroughly polished?

The biggest consistency I see in the 'fine finishes methodology' of some of our most revered makers is the use of quality abrasives, no skipped steps, lots of elbow grease, and then just a touch of a clean and pure top coat.

-Eric

 

[JCaswell]

I generally don't like waxes that will darken wood/leather permanently, or alters the patina of metal .. Like Ren Wax and other "mico"-whatever waxes.

Best wax for maintaining the color of non-stabilized woods I've found is Briwax furniture wax (Probably others too. This is one I've zeroed in on).
It has serious solvents in it to keep the wax soft. When it 'burns off' you have a hard wax in place and the color of woods (such as desert ironwood) is preserved without the dark/wet look.