Walnut First Aid

[Stephen DeGiulio]

I have rescued a cheap old walnut handle full tang three rivet paring knife. After cleaning and taking the wood down to the rivets I have two questions, and no experience from which to answer them:
1. The wood against the tang has shrunk slightly, until there is a slight gap between the tang and the walnut scales. Is there a way I can fill this? I'm not looking for beauty, just to keep moisture from further degrading the wood and extending the life if my neglected tool. The gap is so slight that I don't think I can use plastic wood, maybe there is some kind of relatively thin liquid that will harden and fill the gap?
2. Is oil the best, and cheapest, finish?

Maybe another theoretical question, why did the wood shrink against the tang, but expand on the outside?

Thanks for considering my beginner's questions.

Steve D.

 

[Mudbug007]

Sounds like you should just grind the rivets off and replace the handle. Otherwise what I would do is mix some walnut dust with epoxy and force in the gap...depending on how large the gap is. If it's very wide, I wouldn't mess with trying to fill it, I'd replace the handle.

I like TruOil gunstock oil for Walnut. I'm not sure you could find anything better.

 

[Stephen DeGiulio]

Thanks Mudbug,
I found a good how-to:
http://atomictoasters.com/2012/05/replacing-a-knife-handle/
that recommends Loctite 410 for filling the gap, but the stuff goes for $1 a gram, so I will probably try some epoxy I have on hand. replacing the handle is a better way to go, but not for now--I want a repair that will last for another 10 years, then maybe new scales.

 

[ernestrome]

Thanks Mudbug,
I found a good how-to:
http://atomictoasters.com/2012/05/replacing-a-knife-handle/
that recommends Loctite 410 for filling the gap, but the stuff goes for $1 a gram, so I will probably try some epoxy I have on hand. replacing the handle is a better way to go, but not for now--I want a repair that will last for another 10 years, then maybe new scales.

This might not be a pretty repair. If you are planning to have it for ten years I would recommend you do it right, which is to remove and replace, epoxying the scales to the handle which prevents this gap forming.

What epoxy do you have?

If it is not 5 or 15 minute epoxy you could heat it to reduce the viscosity. However this will also reduce the working time you have somewhat as the reaction will be faster. If you have 5 or 15 minute epoxy then the working time you have will be very short and it will be hard to get the epoxy into the gap before it starts to gel.

You could also use epoxy thinner or acetone to thin it slightly. Adding wood dust will improve the colour but make it harder to get into the gap.

Tape the blade as per the repair instruction you linked too. Prepare the gap by cleaning any gunk out. I would try to use some sandpaper to abrade the insides surfaces if possible.

If you decide to heat it, warm the epoxy tubes/syringe with a hairdryer and heat the knife handle gently too. Mix the epoxy thoroughly. Continue to warm the epoxy, beware the hairdryer blowing your pot over!

Apply the epoxy to the gap, a pin or toothpick or other improvised tool will be helpful in working it in. Because the epoxy is thin any air bubbles should pop out. I would do the top first then the bottom so that you can use gravity to help the epoxy flow in.

Oil or wax is a good way to protect a kitchen knife handle. I find dishwashing detergents remove the top layer during washing so it should be replenished as needed. I use a beeswax, carnauba wax mineral oil mix. I gently warm the wax and handle to improve penetration. Dishwashers will remove the finish fast and dry out the wood, do not put your knives in the dishwasher.