Wanna know why I continue to do chisel grind?

For The Loss?

Original meaning was Continue Mission - ;)uck The World
 
Charlie Mike said:
I've experienced a dramatic uptick in orders since my 1x42 died in July and I started running my 2x72
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I'm glad to see you finally started to use it, last time we talked it was still sittin' there Matt. :) :thumbsup:

lieferung said:
I've never handled a chisel grind, symmetry appeals to me more. Maybe though I just need to give it a chance.
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You can't go wrong with Matt's knives, his blades work and they fit. I love the way they sit in my hand and transitionin' between grips is a breeze. The swell locks the blade into palm of your and makes a perfect pivot while goin' from fencing/hammer grip to a reverse grip and if you you carry the way Matt does the knife comes out ready to fight.

austonh said:
I will need to acquire a chisel grind at some point. Not going to pretend I would use it much, but I still want it! o_O
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You'd be surprised how much you'll use it and if you've never really owned and used one you owe it to yourself to at least take a month and really try one out.

Charlie Mike said:
Several variations on the chisel grind. Zero bevel, secondary bevel, asymmetric, and Besh Wedge.
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There's enough variation to make almost everyone happy, ya can't please everyone.

Charlie Mike said:
As for grip dislodge during a cut, the forces exerted are transferred to the media being cut. Never had an issue with this compromising grip.
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I've taken down 4"-6" trees with mine and it would stick like an ax. Never once did it pull from my hand on withdrawing.

plue said:
Not a fan of the chisel grind unless it's a chisel, but glad to hear your business is doing well.
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Like I said earlier it's not for everyone but I'd be willin' to bet more people who say they don't like it have most likely ever really used a properly ground/heat treated one and if they did for a month of real use they'd change their minds.

And they're right, this thread needs more pics.

The Mad Hungarian, (there's a shorter companion piece with a bottle opener Matt made for my son in law called the Son of the Mad Hungarian. He carries it everywhere CM style and loves it.)

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Charlie Mike said:
For The Loss?

Original meaning was Continue Mission - ;)uck The World
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I had it on my cut and the mother in law asked me what it meant. I had to think fast as she wasn't crazy about me to start with, I told her FTW meant Free The Whales.

I'll never forget what she said, "Well that's nice." I had to get outta the house so I didn't lose it and bust out laughin. :)
 
IIRC, that one is differentially hardened Carbon V. which is like 1095 on steroids.

When I got clean, I got serious about knives. Shortly after I put my current shop together, DDR gave me a bunch of the stuff left over from when Camillus closed.
 
Yea it's Carbon v and it cuts and chops like a rabid raccoon on meth. :)

Reminds me of the old days Matt 4 am on the east coast and here we are again. ;)
 
Ha! This time the binge that's keeping me awake is a Lost marathon via Netflix.

Almost done with Season 5...

Looks like Lost is about a very biblical struggle. Good and Evil manipulating people "brought" to the island to settle a fued between brothers over whether humanity is inherently good or evil.
 
I did the last thing last year, I enjoyed it. The end was a little ambiguous but It kept me interested. Have you seen Weeds or Breaking Bad yet?
 
Breaking Bad was epic. Weeds is on my list.
 
I have a couple of Bastinelli/FOX karambits, the Diagnostic and now the new Pika. Both have a chisel grind. I thought first that they felt little dull. How much I have been mistaken I found out when I was doing a cord wrap and pulled accidentally the Diagnostic out of its sheath. The geometry, the curved tip and the grind cut a handsome slash across my fingers. It seems they cut by design very well.
 
tiguy7 said:
I have read this several times, and I think that you are saying that I need to double the angle on the bevel side of a chisel sharpened blade which of course would not improve (reduce) the inclusive edge angle, and I would not enjoy the benefit of a very acute (razor like) edge.
I have right and left side chisel sharpened blades. Their included angle is 15 degrees. In use, they behave like scalpels except that it is hard to change direction when cutting. They want go in a straight line. As such, they are great for making uniform slices (sushi, ham, lunch meat, roast beef, etc. A right hand bevel is useful for large cuts where the slices are falling off to the right (I am right handed). A left hand bevel is more useful for small controlled cuts where the lopped pieces are coming toward me (maybe cutting cooked chicken or steak on a plate).
If you want to have a little leeway in changing direction while cutting, choose the double bevel. If you want to go nuts on direction changes while cutting, opt for the convex edge.
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Something like that. Basically I was saying that it's not an appropriate comparison to compare different grinds that don't have the same included angle, for the reasons you've deduced. There's nothing "inherent" about the difference in geometry other than the tilt of the blade relative to the handle. For every chisel grind that's 15° you could just as easily make a double bevel that's 14° (7dps.) The major difference is that true chisel grinds have no relief angle on the flat, so turning them away from that face during the cut is almost impossible while turning the other way is easy. As such, they're best used for paring cuts where you're removing a thin amount of material from the surface of your target without much pushback. If you try using a "right handed" chisel grind to make long cuts in the middle of a piece of cardboard you'll find your blade is prone to drifting clockwise rather than tracking straight because the deflection acting on the blade is imbalanced.

Another difference when dealing with a true chisel grind is that your minimum angle of approach to the target is skewed per side. An edge can only cut when approaching at an angle greater than that of the edge angle (barring deformation of the target surface.) If approaching the target at an angle equal to the edge angle, then the bevel is parallel with the target and won't bite. Any lower of an approach and the bevel is now actually pointing away from the target. So, say you have two knives with edges having a 30° included angle--one a conventional double bevel, and the other a true chisel grind. The double bevel will have an edge measuring 15° per side and so can approach the target surface at any angle greater than 15° in either direction. The chisel grind is 0° on one side and 30° on the other, meaning that on the one side it can approach the target at any angle greater than 0° (which is why they're great at paring off high points on a surface) but has to approach the target at a whopping >30° on the other side. That does mean, however, that for that given total edge angle it's very easy to use that side of the knife for breaking from a cut, which cannot be reasonably done with the other face.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Something like that. Basically I was saying that it's not an appropriate comparison to compare different grinds that don't have the same included angle, for the reasons you've deduced. There's nothing "inherent" about the difference in geometry other than the tilt of the blade relative to the handle. For every chisel grind that's 15° you could just as easily make a double bevel that's 14° (7dps.) The major difference is that true chisel grinds have no relief angle on the flat, so turning them away from that face during the cut is almost impossible while turning the other way is easy. As such, they're best used for paring cuts where you're removing a thin amount of material from the surface of your target without much pushback. If you try using a "right handed" chisel grind to make long cuts in the middle of a piece of cardboard you'll find your blade is prone to drifting clockwise rather than tracking straight because the deflection acting on the blade is imbalanced.

Another difference when dealing with a true chisel grind is that your minimum angle of approach to the target is skewed per side. An edge can only cut when approaching at an angle greater than that of the edge angle (barring deformation of the target surface.) If approaching the target at an angle equal to the edge angle, then the bevel is parallel with the target and won't bite. Any lower of an approach and the bevel is now actually pointing away from the target. So, say you have two knives with edges having a 30° included angle--one a conventional double bevel, and the other a true chisel grind. The double bevel will have an edge measuring 15° per side and so can approach the target surface at any angle greater than 15° in either direction. The chisel grind is 0° on one side and 30° on the other, meaning that on the one side it can approach the target at any angle greater than 0° (which is why they're great at paring off high points on a surface) but has to approach the target at a whopping >30° on the other side. That does mean, however, that for that given total edge angle it's very easy to use that side of the knife for breaking from a cut, which cannot be reasonably done with the other face.
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This is why I personally like using right-handed chisel grinds as a right-handed person. It maximizes what they do best as cutting surfaces (even if it also maximizes what they do worst as cutting surfaces). If I'm going to go chisel, I'm going to go all the way. It's what turns me off Emersons as a right-handed person. All those left-handed chisel grinds.
 
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