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Be sure to include the Condor leather sheath that they make for the Golok. It is quite good. I would take the Condor out chopping (aka trial run) before the trip to make sure it is solid and you like it.
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Want to be a machete guy?!?!
- Thread starter Cascade_mtn's
- Start date
I hike (and work) the Beartooth's a fair bit, you'll definitely see some nice country 
sorry no advice on machete's (don't know a thing about them); but will strongly suggest that everyone in your party carries bear spray and that it's carried in a manner that is readily accessible; I'd also suggest that you have the appropriate gear to hang your food properly at night
carry on w/ the machete discussion
sorry no advice on machete's (don't know a thing about them); but will strongly suggest that everyone in your party carries bear spray and that it's carried in a manner that is readily accessible; I'd also suggest that you have the appropriate gear to hang your food properly at night
carry on w/ the machete discussion
I'm from Wa State as well (East side) and I know what you mean. I do the same on trips were I know the trail/area well. I have been to the Pasayten, and N Cascades with nothing more than a saw, and a SAK. This trip however is all new, and I would feel more comfortable with a a good chopper, and loose some weight by leaving he hatchet at home.
Right on. Then I vote for the Condor Golok. Inexpensive and well made ... a beast of a chopper. Could be there are lighter tools out there than the golok but then you start losing the chopping strength youre looking for.
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Sorry guys--wasn't able to snap a pic of the golok taper tonight. Turns out they were in the last of five boxes, and I only got four done tonight. First thing in the morning though! :thumbup:
:thumbup:- Joined
- Jan 13, 2011
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I hike (and work) the Beartooth's a fair bit, you'll definitely see some nice country
sorry no advice on machete's (don't know a thing about them); but will strongly suggest that everyone in your party carries bear spray and that it's carried in a manner that is readily accessible; I'd also suggest that you have the appropriate gear to hang your food properly at nightcarry on w/ the machete discussion
We will all have bear spray. I carry mine with a carabiner on the waist strap of my pack. It is held by a nylon stretch sheath. Easy to pull out, and fast. Thanks for the heads up however. It will be in late June, so mama bears with cubs will be a concern. Luckily my Buddy is so freaking noisy we probably won't see any critters other than mosquitoes.
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- Jan 13, 2011
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I hear ya....... I don't NEED a $100-$110 machete, but the Fiddelebacks, and BHKs look real nice.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
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This machete will be used for chopping, and splitting for the most part. I don't see me needing to hack my way through thick brush, maybe just the clearing of a small space for my one man tent. I agree with you..... as much as I want to save on weight, a thicker blade is a good idea.
In which case I think you'll be needing to pay extra special attention to the geometry. Many light machetes are done like cheapo scandi knives there is no taper from the spine to the cutting edge. It's just like getting a big steel rule [uniform stock thickness] and dubbing an edge down one side with using a jig. Great 'cos obviously with such little work going into the production it makes them cheap to produce, and in the case of cutting thin stuff like grasses and light vegetation little more is required. Provided the stock is thin and the edge is sharp the blade is through and away no problem. Essentially, provided there is some semblance of a cutting edge and the thing is thin and travelling at good speed happy days. These are the kinds of things that even not so smart people can get to work buy crudely scratching a bevel on with a file. When you consider the business end of a garden strimmer, that little bit of rotating nylon line travelling at speed, and what a strimmer is good for there is no great mystery there.
Your mentioning of chopping and splitting causes me to assume that a bunch of that is going to be cross grain into wood. That's a whole new ballgame. As with knives that need to go either completely through a material, or that the material to be cut will come a good way up the blade, we need to be mindful of something I've said here before [several times] what follows the cutting edge is critical to performance not just sharpness. For a simplified model envisage the difference between how even an excellent Scandi such as Spyderco's goes through a potato compared to a kitchen knife. The kitchen knife full height grind allows it to bite much deeper. It's the same with green-woodworking tools look at the sectional geometry of a billhook. Whilst you can try to overcome [obfuscate] the deficiency by adding mass or blade length its not ideal. Many try this brute force approach only to find the thing mashes wood or bounces rather that cutting it, and at best gets the performance that could be achieved by something much smaller and lighter that is appropriately shaped.
Why am I labouring this? The reason is that it is extremely appropriate to the Martindale #2. I think the #2 is a splendid little thing that can hold its own extremely well if you can tap the potential. NIB forget it. Only equipped to sharpen the edge forget it. Will to put a bit off time in knocking the shoulders off forget it. To tap into the goodness you'll need to hog off a whole bunch of metal not just knock the shoulders off. In a nutshell consider that you'll be wanting to put a lovely thin convex on it from the cutting edge to at least half way up the blade. Here's how important that is. When I do that I can keep the very cutting edge exactly how it shipped, and just by giving all that relieve there's a day and night performance difference. I've not even considered sharpening it yet and already it has gone from a hopeless tree beater so something that offers the good deep penetration we all like. Tapping into the taper of the grind seamlessly like this from spine to edge is imperative. Only then do I do the sharpening stage a steeper convex at the edge for toughness that blends in to the relief I ground. Done like this size for size and weight for weight against other offerings I really like them. If you are in any doubt about your willingness to put in the work avoid like pox.
If I were in your position and I wasn't willing to go through the above I'd strongly consider a Magnum Machete for some NIB clout. Cheap, wont rust, built around a Becker handle that's prime for tweaking and penetrates wood. In fact I'd like to see Horn Dog put one of these against some equivalent size and weight heavy machetes he has on wood. His no BS style I'm sure will call it like it is and not make assumptions based stainless, or made in China, or low cost. Here's one up against some other by a man in a shed.
In which case I think you'll be needing to pay extra special attention to the geometry. Many light machetes are done like cheapo scandi knives there is no taper from the spine to the cutting edge. It's just like getting a big steel rule [uniform stock thickness] and dubbing an edge down one side with using a jig. Great 'cos obviously with such little work going into the production it makes them cheap to produce, and in the case of cutting thin stuff like grasses and light vegetation little more is required. Provided the stock is thin and the edge is sharp the blade is through and away no problem. Essentially, provided there is some semblance of a cutting edge and the thing is thin and travelling at good speed happy days. These are the kinds of things that even not so smart people can get to work buy crudely scratching a bevel on with a file. When you consider the business end of a garden strimmer, that little bit of rotating nylon line travelling at speed, and what a strimmer is good for there is no great mystery there.
Your mentioning of chopping and splitting causes me to assume that a bunch of that is going to be cross grain into wood. That's a whole new ballgame. As with knives that need to go either completely through a material, or that the material to be cut will come a good way up the blade, we need to be mindful of something I've said here before [several times] what follows the cutting edge is critical to performance not just sharpness. For a simplified model envisage the difference between how even an excellent Scandi such as Spyderco's goes through a potato compared to a kitchen knife. The kitchen knife full height grind allows it to bite much deeper. It's the same with green-woodworking tools look at the sectional geometry of a billhook. Whilst you can try to overcome [obfuscate] the deficiency by adding mass or blade length its not ideal. Many try this brute force approach only to find the thing mashes wood or bounces rather that cutting it, and at best gets the performance that could be achieved by something much smaller and lighter that is appropriately shaped.
Why am I labouring this? The reason is that it is extremely appropriate to the Martindale #2. I think the #2 is a splendid little thing that can hold its own extremely well if you can tap the potential. NIB forget it. Only equipped to sharpen the edge forget it. Will to put a bit off time in knocking the shoulders off forget it. To tap into the goodness you'll need to hog off a whole bunch of metal not just knock the shoulders off. In a nutshell consider that you'll be wanting to put a lovely thin convex on it from the cutting edge to at least half way up the blade. Here's how important that is. When I do that I can keep the very cutting edge exactly how it shipped, and just by giving all that relieve there's a day and night performance difference. I've not even considered sharpening it yet and already it has gone from a hopeless tree beater so something that offers the good deep penetration we all like. Tapping into the taper of the grind seamlessly like this from spine to edge is imperative. Only then do I do the sharpening stage a steeper convex at the edge for toughness that blends in to the relief I ground. Done like this size for size and weight for weight against other offerings I really like them. If you are in any doubt about your willingness to put in the work avoid like pox.
If I were in your position and I wasn't willing to go through the above I'd strongly consider a Magnum Machete for some NIB clout. Cheap, wont rust, built around a Becker handle that's prime for tweaking and penetrates wood. In fact I'd like to see Horn Dog put one of these against some equivalent size and weight heavy machetes he has on wood. His no BS style I'm sure will call it like it is and not make assumptions based stainless, or made in China, or low cost. Here's one up against some other by a man in a shed.
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- Jan 13, 2011
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BT-II
I appreciate the info and the vid. Before I buy anything greater than about $15.00 I'm going to buy a Tram for the $6.00 + shipping and put it to use on a few day hikes as well as a 2 night solo trip in two weeks. From there I'll decide on what I will purchase.
The reviews I have read on the Condor golok have all been favorable. I have the skills/equipment to put a multi stage convex grind on it, it has a good sheath available, and the handle geometry has been well reviewed. Still not sure on all of this...... but I'll get there.
Thanks all for the help.
I appreciate the info and the vid. Before I buy anything greater than about $15.00 I'm going to buy a Tram for the $6.00 + shipping and put it to use on a few day hikes as well as a 2 night solo trip in two weeks. From there I'll decide on what I will purchase.
The reviews I have read on the Condor golok have all been favorable. I have the skills/equipment to put a multi stage convex grind on it, it has a good sheath available, and the handle geometry has been well reviewed. Still not sure on all of this...... but I'll get there.
Thanks all for the help.
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- Feb 28, 2006
- Messages
- 4,012
Cascade_mtn's, hey
I think there's a lot about that Condor that looks great, especially as you've got the ability to tweak it.
Probably a sage decision all round.
I think there's a lot about that Condor that looks great, especially as you've got the ability to tweak it.
Probably a sage decision all round.
I don't know this stuff like BT-II but out of the box my Condor golok was chopping dead dry maple limbs up to 4" with ease.
I have a dying maple tree in the front yard and this tool removed the dead limbs and chopped those to bits to fit in the yard waste can. I was surprised it did so well, considering that I think of goloks as made for green wood. Anyway, the above is why I recommend this tool for the situation your are describing.
I have a dying maple tree in the front yard and this tool removed the dead limbs and chopped those to bits to fit in the yard waste can. I was surprised it did so well, considering that I think of goloks as made for green wood. Anyway, the above is why I recommend this tool for the situation your are describing.
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That is good to know........
Since you are from the P.N.W. as well, you know most of what I'll be splitting will be softer woods like pine, spruce, cedar, ext..... They can have lots of knots however so the advice on a thicker, more robust blade is a good one IMO.
Whatever I end up with, I will put to use, and do any tweaking before I'm out there. Don't want my learning curve to be on the trail, with several blisters on my hand.
jdk1
Gold Member
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- Apr 21, 2010
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I picked up a 14" blade Tramontina bush machete for my son so he wouldn't be trying to bury the tips of my khuks into the dirt. I was amazed at how good it felt in hand. I spent less than five minutes with some sandpaper on the handle and it was perfect. It's very light and handy. I'm not sure how well it will work for your hiking needs, but at $5.99, you won't be sorry you bought one. I picked up a sheath from the same site, it is quite nice for the $10 price, but is left handed. The owner couldn't really explain why. Anyway, I suggest picking one up to play with and listen to the machete guys here when you're ready to get a high dollar version. Here's the 14" bush machete and sheath, along with my ESEE Junglas.
1066vik
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I have a 14" tram as well - about 5-10 minutes on the belt sander to profile the edge, square the spine, and true up the handles so the scales were flush with the tang. Thin and very light.
great for thin green vegetation - not so great for thicker stuff, especially dry wood.
I've also had the chance to use a Condor golok -- nice. Metal is thick in the tang, then has a significant taper all the way out to the point. light & thin enough to clear brush quickly, but still has enough spine and mass to chop through dried stuff up to about 3.5-4" without working you to death.
If you're going to use it to split branches to get to the dry centers after cutting them to length with your folding saw, the closer you are to the handles, the thicker the spine for wedging action.
The coating on the one I got to play with was pretty decent, too - it will scuff and chip, but didn't flake off with a fingernail like some coatings i've dealt with .
great for thin green vegetation - not so great for thicker stuff, especially dry wood.
I've also had the chance to use a Condor golok -- nice. Metal is thick in the tang, then has a significant taper all the way out to the point. light & thin enough to clear brush quickly, but still has enough spine and mass to chop through dried stuff up to about 3.5-4" without working you to death.
If you're going to use it to split branches to get to the dry centers after cutting them to length with your folding saw, the closer you are to the handles, the thicker the spine for wedging action.
The coating on the one I got to play with was pretty decent, too - it will scuff and chip, but didn't flake off with a fingernail like some coatings i've dealt with .
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That is exactly what it's main use will be. Splitting. It may be pressed into some chores my Vic Super Tinker can't handle (I.E. big fixed blade), but I can't think of what that might be at this point. Besides weight that is why I want a shorter machete (12"-14" max) in case it's needed as a big knife. Basically replacing a 15" hatchet and a 9" fixed blade in one shot.
I'm not at all worried about corrosion really. IDC what the blade will look like after a full day of being wet, but the coating is nice. Thanks for the info.
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