Want To Make A Kiridashi

A

agduffy6

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Feb 5, 2014
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So, I want to make a kiridashi for my grandfather, just a simple one with simple micarta scales (still trying to work out how to integrate these). I plan on buying 154-CM or D2 (open to suggestions on a steel, will be sending to Peter's or Texas Knife Supply for heat treat) from a supplier and using stock removal to make it. Should i be fine with a bandsaw (i believe this is how you usually cut out the knife shape?), a belt grinder/sander, a drill press, and other sanders for this? I have read the stickies and i know this is a very general question but i just want advice and tips before i dive into this

Heres the current mockup of what i generally want
SK04daQ.jpg
 
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sounds like you first knife.
The shape isn't complicated, stick to handtools first. Hacksaw, files and sandpaper
 
I suggest you grab the tools you listed and go make it!
If you need something else - you'll find out along the way.
 
Looking good!

Mock one up in cardboard or something like that and see if you like the feel in hand. I use mine for a lot of scoring cuts with the tip and like a straight handle but for slicing or whittling your handle shape would be great. Nice work!
 
D2 is one of my favorites, it would be an excellent choice.

1/8" would be nice and strong yet thin enough to still be slicey, I'd go somewhere around there... 3/32"-5/32"

Most of my kiridashis are either 1/4" thick or around .100"... pry bars or slicers. I have gone as thin as .050" on my 3-4" mini-dashis.
 
Awesome, think I'm gonna go with 11.5" long, 2" wide, .150" thick Bohler K110 D2, thanks for the help
 
11.5" long is really really long for a kiridashi. I would recommend doing something half that long if not shorter.
 
I'm about to dive in head first making my first Kiridashi as well. Here's a pick of the batch waiting to get profiled and then heat treated. I'm using 1/16th O1 stock, so they should be atom splitting sharp if all goes well.
r8GTyZ.jpg
 
stereo.pete said:
I'm about to dive in head first making my first Kiridashi as well. Here's a pick of the batch waiting to get profiled and then heat treated. I'm using 1/16th O1 stock, so they should be atom splitting sharp if all goes well.
r8GTyZ.jpg
Click to expand...

Ooooh, those look nice! Keep us updated with pics!
 
Very nice! I'm sure whoever receives 'em will love them

Here's the 2 designs at different sizes cut out and taped to cardboard

0lyBT0i.jpg
 
Also, this is gonna sound SUPER dumb, but how does one cut out the outline of the knife in the steel, preferably a way to do it using power tools? :confused:
 
agduffy6 said:
Also, this is gonna sound SUPER dumb, but how does one cut out the outline of the knife in the steel, preferably a way to do it using power tools? :confused:
Click to expand...

Metal bandsaw, high tension hacksaw, angle grinder with cut off disc or use the belt grinder time remove material down to your scribe lines.
 
Before I had the tools that I have now, I used a hack saw and files to sculpt the shape of the profile. If you have a bandsaw, that would definitely save a lot of time, and then finish with files unless you have a good belt grinder.
 
Metal cutting band saw, not a wood cutting band saw. Short of that would be hacksaw with appropriate blades. I use a Greenlee 333 Swedish high tension hacksaw with 24 tpi bi-metal blades. Cheap flimsy hacksaw frames work fine but the high tension one is noticeably better.

20141005_180846_zpsdad7b0b1.jpg


The top two work but the bottom one is superior. I have seen them sold from electrical tool and supply type of sites.

Disclosure, I am a green newbie to the knife making world and this is about the extent of the advise that I am qualified to give. Good luck, like the design.
 
Perrin said:
Metal cutting band saw, not a wood cutting band saw. Short of that would be hacksaw with appropriate blades. I use a Greenlee 333 Swedish high tension hacksaw with 24 tpi bi-metal blades. Cheap flimsy hacksaw frames work fine but the high tension one is noticeably better.

20141005_180846_zpsdad7b0b1.jpg


The top two work but the bottom one is superior. I have seen them sold from electrical tool and supply type of sites.



Disclosure, I am a green newbie to the knife making world and this is about the extent of the advise that I am qualified to give. Good luck, like the design.
Click to expand...

Will look into different hacksaws then, thanks :D
 
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