Wanted: Knife Design Input

[Stark Knives]

I drew up a few knife designs and I wanted to know if you guys could see any major design flaws. Here are some (not so good) pics.

All of the knives will be 52100 I think. Is that good as long as I send the blades out for HT?

Some paring knives.
4" blade and about 4" handle

1.25" tall

.0935" thick stock.

The lines would be nice and straight when I actually make them, but it was hard to cut them out perfectly.

A 240mm gyuto, a 7" chef's knife, and a 8" chef's knife.

4-4.5" handle

.125" thick stock

Some bushcraft/EDC blades.

.125" stock thickness

The handles on all of the knives would be a bit different but I didn't want to have to cut out the knife again.

I can also give more specific dimensions if needed.

Thanks for looking!

 

[spareparts]

I'm an ameture in knife making but I've spent my time in pro kitchens. I think on your kitchen knives you need to move the forward edge of your handle scales back to a point behind the rear most edges of the blades so that when you cut through thick food the handle doesn't get in the food or prevent you from finishing a cut.

I would consider your paring knives to actually be utility knives at 1.25" wide. IMO a parer should be around .75 inches at the widest point. But that could just be a preference thing and not recommending you change them if you like them that way.

I'd also clean up the belly of the knife handles. They seem a little over exaggerated.

 

[Remyrw]

I'm with Spareparts, and would also get rid of that hook at the rear of the blades. It does you no good and is just a good way to stab yourself constantly in the kitchen when picking up the knife. I've never understood designs that do that unless it's enlarged enough to be functional and act almost as a guard.

 

[Patrickknives]

I agree with the hook, you can keep that design feature just round that corner, you will be suprised how often it will cut you. There is a slight problem (I know these are rough) in where your bevel of the grind and handle meet, even on a thin chef knife you have to have a flat surface for the whole handle including the nose, so just look at where the grind will end and make sure you dont extend the nose past there.

The belly of the handles appear to be a moving target, maybe make a wood mockup and see what it comfortable, all can be very similar handles but of slightly different sizes, that will help you in the long run rather than shaping many different types. I can see where the very bottom one will have a different handle shape which is good.

While I am on a rant, one last thing, place the pin equal distance from the butt and nose and divide what is left in two. Some of the rear pins look a bit forward.

they look good, now start grinding

 

[Stark Knives]

Thanks everyone.

Patrick,

I figured out the handle not being able to go into the bevel. I also refined the shapes a bit, here they are.

I reduced the handle belly, shaped the gyuto a bit better, and took out the recurve below the handle.

Let me know if there are any other things to fix.

 

[james terrio]

I figured out the handle not being able to go into the bevel. I also refined the shapes a bit, here they are.

Those look better to me. If you lightly chamfer the back of the heels, they'll be safe and comfortable but you will still have 99.99% sharp edge to use.

4" handles seem a little short to me. Are these strictly for you (and if so, do you have really small hands?), or possibly for other folks too?

 

[Stark Knives]

If you mean for the larger knives the handles are more like 4.5" and they fit my family's hands well. The shape of the gyuto look pretty good right?