Warning!! Do not push the blade inside GEC #73.

I've had this issue with a few knives. It never really bothered me that much. I found that it didn't happen when I was carrying and only when I was fondling the knives, so cuddle with care :thumbup: Also as Charlie said when you use it a bit and sharpen it some the problem will go away. Until then a matchstick or leather in the knife will fix that problem.
 
rma100 said:
Knives are not Toys. Do not play with your knives. Problem solved.
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Disagree. Knives are toys. I play with them constantly.

I don't sit and play with toy cars or army guys, or video games any more.... knives are where it's at!

I've had more than a few knives from different manufactures do this.

I've done it from closing the knife under its own spring power, from depressing one blade while whittling with the other, and from pushing the blade down without thinking about it.

Sharpen it up. Problem solved!

I won't blame you for playing with your knives.

Of course, I've had my fair share of cuts and stitches!
 
Strange but I have never even thought of squeezing the blade into the knife - it's never entered my mind. I did have one single blade that had minor blade rap, but it sharpened out and was never an issue again.

IMHO just use it and after a couple sharpenings it'll be a non-issue.
 
ea42 said:
No Meako, the actual act of pressing the blade in has little effect on the spring, probably flexes about the same as when the blade is being opened. The problem is that when you press it in past it's resting point, the only thing that'll stop it is the blade edge. Knives are not designed to account for this so of course you'll wind up with a ding in the blade If you go too far.

Eric
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This is kaos! ve do not press the blade in .
Thanks Eric.:D
 
stef142 said:
Not many. This is the first knife I see with this defect (for me is so..). I like Gec knives a lot and I hope they will consider this in next productions.
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ea42 said:
Knives are not designed to account for this so of course you'll wind up with a ding in the blade If you go too far.

Eric
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Eric is a cutler for another company. His word is pretty much it. THIS BEHAVIOR IS NOT A DEFECT.

Rule of thumb: Don't do something with a device that it is not meant to do.
You are not supposed to force the blade down, pushing it against the spring. No knife is purposely designed to account for that. You might get away with it here and there, but only by shear luck.
 
Of course pushing the blade past it's kick is a bad thing to do to the edge.
Problem is when just letting the blade closing under the spring's effect is enough to slam the edge on the central pin's bump. That is a defect of design/tuning of the knife.
The clearance has to be proportioned to the spring's action...
 
rma100 said:
Knives are not Toys. Do not play with your knives. Problem solved.
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Not toys - Tools. Taking artsy pictures of knives is also playing with them. Hell, it could fall out of that apple it's stuck in to right on to the tile floor God forbid!
Carry them, use them - and OP if you carried and used that knife lightly for a week, you would probably do worse damage than teeny nick you have there!
 
Arathol said:
Yes many actually. I have seen plenty, most of which are trapper styles with stronger springs and a raised bit in the center of the spring. It is not a defect at all, just the nature of the beast, something to be aware of. It just takes a tiny bit of precautionary measure to prevent this seemingly insignificant issue.
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No, not many. If it was an issue on 'many' knives, then I'd see it in this pile of 40 or so I have to look thru. Even the 'trapper styles with stronger springs' dont exhibit this because it has #nothing# to do with strong spring. The deal here is ol dude jammed the blade down and rubbed it on the spring. Rookie stupid thing to do, but he did it anyhow. Now, the 'rapping' issue is a knife defect. In the (cheap) knives i have seen rapping occur, it seems to be caused by the blade being too heavy for the spring to 'stop' its inertia. Thats why a good knife with heavy blades will have either a huge kick or a monster spring. My Kabar folding hunter has the heaviest blade of all my traditional knives, but the spring is so massive that it would never be overcome by the blade's inertia on snapping closed. Blade snobs would whine about the 10+ pull on the master, but they dont use knives aside from sticking them in apples and taking pictures, so they wouldnt understand the reason behind it.

You dont need to stuff padding in a well built knife. If you are in the habit of doing this, you need to reblade the poor ol thing you ground the kick down so far on, retire it, or quit buying waki Paki junk.
 
Giant Mondo Bug said:
Not toys - Tools. Taking artsy pictures of knives is also playing with them. Hell, it could fall out of that apple it's stuck in to right on to the tile floor God forbid!
Carry them, use them - and OP if you carried and used that knife lightly for a week, you would probably do worse damage than teeny nick you have there!
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You forgot weapons. Knives make great weapons.

If you look at past threads, there are many of them describing dings in the blade from letting the blades snap shut - even a few here and there about pushing a blade into the frame.
 
ea42 said:
Peening a kick won't do any good, the blade is resting on the kick, when you push the blade in you're actually pivoting the blade on the kick towards the blade edge. Not a good thing to do on any knife. Eric
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Actually, peening the kick could extend the kick downward so it makes earlier contact with the backspring as you close the knife, thus lifting the edge away from the center pivot. However there's no way to peen the kick so it doesn't look like you peened it, which most people would see as major damage.

I did that with a beater Camillus Army Engineer knife because the main blade settled too deep for the nail nick to be accessible. Peening worked, too, but the result was definitely ugly. It's a functional fix, and pretty much a last resort. I'd send the #73 back, telling them how it happened and being prepared to pay to have it fixed.

I have no GEC knives, but it sounds to me like the design could use a little tweaking so edge-crashes don't happen.
 
AreBeeBee said:
Actually, peening the kick could extend the kick downward so it makes earlier contact with the backspring as you close the knife, thus lifting the edge away from the center pivot. However there's no way to peen the kick so it doesn't look like you peened it, which most people would see as major damage.

I did that with a beater Camillus Army Engineer knife because the main blade settled too deep for the nail nick to be accessible. Peening worked, too, but the result was definitely ugly. It's a functional fix, and pretty much a last resort. I'd send the #73 back, telling them how it happened and being prepared to pay to have it fixed.

I have no GEC knives, but it sounds to me like the design could use a little tweaking so edge-crashes don't happen.
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You should read the OP.
 
knarfeng said:
What Bob said. You obviously did not read the opening post. It was not an "edge crash".
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I understand what happened. He's pushing down on the spine of the closed blade, and it's going deeper until the edge meets ("crashes") the raised part of the backspring at the pivot pin. (How much effort was involved in that? Sounds like a lot of pressure.) My comment concerned peening the tang, which is possible to do (I've done it, as described) and which will lengthen a kick to keep the edge farther off the spring. But as said, it's an ugly fix.

The OP should stop doing what he has been doing, and send the knife back to GEC or sharpen away the chip himself to fix it.

As for any design issues, well, as I said, I have no GEC knives to study in close detail. But if they are built in such a way that pushing down on a spine allows the edge to touch the backspring hard enough to damage the edge, then I think a slightly taller kick is in order.

Many, many people let knives (even expensive knives) snap closed, and leaving a bit more headroom between the edge and the highest point on the backspring when closed seems to me a good idea. Not that it excuses abuse, which is what this particular GEC has experienced. But simply as a way to avoid a point of wear.
 
AreBeeBee said:

The OP should stop doing what he has been doing, and send the knife back to GEC or sharpen away the chip himself to fix it.
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The OP shouldn't have to stop doing anything - it's his knife. Further, sending it back to GEC won't accomplish a thing other than generate a bill from GEC for around 20-bucks to sharpen the ding out.

Now, while catching up with BF since I got up a couple hours ago, I've been forcefully pushing the blade of this pictured #73 into it's frame and no ding has appeared.

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The spring is so stiff on the pictured #73 that it is impossible to push the blade into the fame with enough force to ding the blade on the center pivot area of the back spring. Every #73 I've ever seen has a very stiff spring.

So, to the OP, perhaps you've been letting the blade close with more force/slap than you're realizing, thereby causing the ding in the blade, and pushing the blade into the frame hasn't done anything except make an impression in your thumb by the back spring.
 
It's possible to design a slipjoint knife so that pushing down on the blade does not damage it. My Case/Bose Norfolk whittler is with me, and although I can push down on the spine when closed, it does not contact the spring even though the spring has a pronounced hump in its middle.
 
To what degree do you design something that take these considerations in mind?

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently capable fool.
 
I just find it a bit odd that somebody would feel the urge to do this :confused::confused: I mean, it's not a part of knife use is it........
 
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