Warning on PM2 10V

Joined
May 1, 2006
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36
I would do the rest of the scales and then it would be one of a kind tiger stripey. I wouldn't have any shame over the marks and think they look neat and unique. If you bought the thing to use, then take a lesson and use it like it was made for.
 
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Jan 11, 2015
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I would highly recommend pre-driving the screws in without the clip, if you are going to change the orientation. You want those screws to get a good bite on the available threads.

These were definitelly more difficult getting in compared to my multiple other PM2s.

dL1RIxs.jpg

I had to send a tan PM3 back to distributor because when I changed my clip orientation the threads on the screws, all three screws, stripped. I wasn't torquing hard either. They did research and said apparently it was a known issue sometimes. I had multiple other PM3s before that.
 
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May 26, 2019
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I had to use a torch since I don’t have a soldering iron

No. No you didn't have to use a torch. That's like saying all you have is a shotgun in your house, so you had to use that to get the screw out. You took a drastic action that was completely wrong because you got frustrated and lost your temper. We've all been there. You needed to relax, walk away, and figure out a better way to fix your problem.
 
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Jun 17, 2006
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The liners are tapped on the opposite side. Get some longer 2-56 screws from the hardware store.
 

sharp_edge

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The liners are tapped on the opposite side. Get some longer 2-56 screws from the hardware store.

Looking at my PM2, the tip of the blade would hit the screw closer to it, so no - this won't work for PM2.
 
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Looking at my PM2, the tip of the blade would hit the screw closer to it, so no - this won't work for PM2.

Actually it just barely misses. I added the longer screws to my PM2 just for reinforcement and there’s no contact. I’ll post a photo if I can.
 
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This is my blue PM2 that was just recently returned to the lost. It’s been sharpened a few times so maybe a factory fresh blade might just possibly touch, but you could still add two screws and get pretty good support. I add one of these screws to all of my tip-up knives because it helps lock the two liners together at the end and just generally makes the clip attachment stronger.
 
Last edited:

dogboye

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Nov 23, 1999
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ouch....
I don't spend too much time around here, and when I do, I mostly lurk. I should lurk more. i keep missing cool limited releases.
Anyway, regarding the issue the OP had: for future reference, if this happens, try this:

Get a nail. For these size screws, a finishing nail works best, and gets hot faster. You'll also need a pair of pliers, and a source of heat. A Bic lighter is sufficient, but if you have something else, that works, too.
Heat the nail. If you're patient enough and have a good enough source of heat, get it so hot the tip is starting to glow.
Quickly stick the tip into the socket of the screw, and hold it there 10 to15 seconds.
Use the torx and try turning it. If still stuck, repeat the above procedure.

I used this to get a red-loc tited screw out of ... man, can't remember the name of the maker. [edited to add: it was a Greg Lightfoot folder] But, it took about 4 passes to get the clip screw hot enough to loosen the red loc tite. But it worked. And neither the knife, the screw, nor the torx bit were harmed.

I've also used this same method to get the front night sight on a Glock removed, after the tritium had faded to the point of being useless.

If you have a soldering iron, it will go even faster. But, it gets hotter, too, I believe. So still possibly risky.
 
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