warp.

[ERIK KNIVES]

Any of you grind thin and hot (pre-ht)? Ive been working a blade that I straitened and then trued on the disc, but grinding the bevels has it all over the place. I'm grinding faster and with more pressure than in the past, but the stuff isn't so thin I would expect warps or bends. And the blades aren't getting much hotter than I would anticipate, but maybe they are hotter than I think. I'm not grinding differently, except for belt speed and and pressure. Thoughts? Thanks. EA

 

[Don Nguyen]

I've been getting issues with this a lot.

I am working with Aldo's 1084, preHT. They're around 0.125" thick, maybe 8-10 inches edge length (16" overall). 24 or 36 grit at a high speed, without pushing too hard or inducing any heat. Some people said it was probably because I focused my grinding too much on one side before switching. I did notice that the warps were pretty substantial though.

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

I'm under the .100 mark, but much shorter overall, and on higher grits. I'm balancing the grinds, but the only thing I can imagine is that I'm overheating the steel, although I'm not changing it's color.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

On full tang blades, using a backing board to grind the bevels can help . Lay the knife on a piece of 3/4" thick hardwood and trace around the blade. Mark and drill out where the rivet holes are. Cut away the excess wood around the blade lines to make a wooden blade shape. Drop in some bolts and use wing nuts ( nuts on the wood side) and washers to secure the blade to the backer. To switch sides in grinding, just undo the wing nuts and switch sides of the wood. This same brace can be used in hand sanding and polishing/buffing.