warpage.......ARRGH!!!!

[jdm61]

I was heat treating a bowie today and was using the liquid anti-scale for the first time. Seems to work ok. I decided to try doing a hamon with the stuff. Good news is it seemed to work. Bad news is the blade warped I've only managed to get a hamon on one knife that survived. I think that I will stop trying until I can get some instruction....lol.

 

[BRTATCK]

Hey Joe, I feel your pain, . Been there done that. Depending on the type of steel just re heat treat it. As for hamon's I use satanite or fireplace mortar
If I do get a warp I usually straighten while still hot, when you have that window of a minute or so. So give it another try, and I hope it was not the bowie you have been showing. Some knives just want to be made, others fight you every step of the way.

Brion

 

[Morrow]

Hey Joe, I feel your pain, . Been there done that. Depending on the type of steel just re heat treat it. As for hamon's I use satanite or fireplace mortar
If I do get a warp I usually straighten while still hot, when you have that window of a minute or so. So give it another try, and I hope it was not the bowie you have been showing. Some knives just want to be made, others fight you every step of the way.

Brion

it was the bowie he's been showing........

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Joe, It seems that you are having some problems lately. Perhaps if you give us the equipment you are using; The procedures and temperatures; and the materials you are using some of us on the forum could offer some help. I know you have posted a lot, but I don't recall how much experience with HT you have ( If you are accomplished at HT, please take no offense, I just don't remember what level of experience you have).

To start off with, I would suggest that you go back to square one and nail down the basics of HT before venturing on to hamon and clay quenching. If the fundamentals are not rock solid, advanced techniques will be hit or miss at best. Understanding how it is done, and doing it without any problems -twenty or thirty times in a row -are two different things.

Get some 1084 and some Parks #50 and make some blades.Do full quenches with no coatings. When you have had 10 successful runs in a row....then try something more elaborate or tricky.

Stacy

 

[jdm61]

Joe, It seems that you are having some problems lately. Perhaps if you give us the equipment you are using; The procedures and temperatures; and the materials you are using some of us on the forum could offer some help. I know you have posted a lot, but I don't recall how much experience with HT you have ( If you are accomplished at HT, please take no offense, I just don't remember what level of experience you have).

To start off with, I would suggest that you go back to square one and nail down the basics of HT before venturing on to hamon and clay quenching. If the fundamentals are not rock solid, advanced techniques will be hit or miss at best. Understanding how it is done, and doing it without any problems -twenty or thirty times in a row -are two different things.

Get some 1084 and some Parks #50 and make some blades.Do full quenches with no coatings. When you have had 10 successful runs in a row....then try something more elaborate or tricky.

Stacy

I'm using 1084 and W2 with Parks #50 and a Paragon 24 inch oven. All of my recent stuff, save this last one, have been fully quenched with dcent results. With this one, I either used the wrong coating, applied it unevenly, or the stars were just not with me.......or all three...lol. Shame, because this particular blade was looking very good. None of the usual newbie glitches. I tried the straightening trick, but to no avail. The war is a rather subtle one, but it started right up next to the ricasso and I didn't spot that until it was too late. I'm going to try to do it again without the hamon. I spherodize annealed it, but that warp being so close to the ricasso may give me some problems.