Warped Blank While Shaping..

[Tim1020]

Hello everyone! New member and this is my first post, I have just gotten into knife making and ordered some 1/8" 1095 flat stock from Jantz. I started grinding out my shape on my belt sander using 50 grit, I was cooling it off with a bucket of water every so often and was trying to take my time while grinding out the shape.. Well, as I was just about done with a rough grind just to get a general shape I looked at the straightness and it was slightly warped.

Is there any way to correct this?

Is there any way to prevent this in the future?

Not sure what I did wrong as I am new to this, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks, Tim

 

[MarkJeffrey]

Chances are it was already a bit warped maybe to begin with. It shouldn't be very hard to straighten if you've only profiled it so far, just put it in a vice and give it a little pull. Constantly dipping in water is more important after you've heat treated the blade.

 

[NJBillK]

Chances are it was already a bit warped maybe to begin with. It shouldn't be very hard to straighten if you've only profiled it so far, just put it in a vice and give it a little pull. Constantly dipping in water is more important after you've heat treated the blade.

Yep, +1.
------
You can usually straighten a warp. This is often done prior to Heat Treat or during the tempering process post quench.

But first things first,
- Was it an annealed or hardened blank?
- If annealed, are you going to outsource the Heat Treat?
- If not, how are you planning on doing it?
-------
Not to discourage some Fantastic initiative, but 1095 can require some rather accurate reading of the temps and pretty good temp controls. This is mostly due to the fact that 1095 has to "soak" at temp to get the carbon and other goodies into solution.

If you choose to get a blank or piece of steel that is a bit more beginner friendly, I would suggest 1084.
- It can be done with a file, a few gallons of calona oil, a container for your fire and a blow dryer.

Please keep us informed and welcome aboard!

 

[MarkJeffrey]

Also, here's a good read. This is post heat treat for the most part, but handy to have for future problems

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/945231-Blade-Warp

 

[Tim1020]

Yep, +1.
------
You can usually straighten a warp. This is often done prior to Heat Treat or during the tempering process post quench.

But first things first,
- Was it an annealed or hardened blank?
- If annealed, are you going to outsource the Heat Treat?
- If not, how are you planning on doing it?
-------
Not to discourage some Fantastic initiative, but 1095 can require some rather accurate reading of the temps and pretty good temp controls. This is mostly due to the fact that 1095 has to "soak" at temp to get the carbon and other goodies into solution.

If you choose to get a blank or piece of steel that is a bit more beginner friendly, I would suggest 1084.
- It can be done with a file, a few gallons of calona oil, a container for your fire and a blow dryer.

Please keep us informed and welcome aboard!

Not sure about annealed or hardened.. I just ordered 1095 from jantz assuming it was good stock to make a quality blade.., I'm starting out and obviously uneducated lol.. I want to shape the blade and bevel before HT. I am going to be doing the HT on my own in my home made forge . I want to learn to do this process in house. I know I have a lot to learn, and that is why I am asking you guys for help!

Thanks again!

 

[Tim1020]

Chances are it was already a bit warped maybe to begin with. It shouldn't be very hard to straighten if you've only profiled it so far, just put it in a vice and give it a little pull. Constantly dipping in water is more important after you've heat treated the blade.

I was thinking that, but as a beginner I dod t know if maybe I was doing something wrong. I really love this craft and want to do it correctly.

 

[Frank Niro]

Here is an often missed check and that is to check out the bars or pieces of blade steel for bends or just general problems that are so bad that won't allow you to use the material. On the other hand if it is bar stock that came as rolled then also be aware you will be the one to straighten what can be considered minor problems. Now if it's precision ground it should be as straight should be and is most often shipped attached to a board so you get it that way. Some makers will by onl this.
Frank