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- Jun 4, 2010
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Still only $48 shipping included lower 48 - shipping elsewhere at cost.
They come with:
One Washboard sharpening plate on wooden base - approx 2"x 8" x 1"
4 color illustrated user's guide - 8 pages
Your choice of custom formulated Aluminum Oxide (Good for carbon steel and common grades of stainless) or Silicon Carbide (better for steels with high alloy and/or carbide content) honing compound - approx 4k JIS - Additional slugs of compound available for $8 ea
One sheet of 320 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper
One sheet of 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper
The videos below show how to use it start to finish. Experienced sharpeners might choose to grind their edges some other way, and only use it for a final stropping base. I believe it is still worth every penny even if used only to finish and maintain an edge. Initially that's all I intended to use it for, but realized it didn't just work well with paper, but with all flexible substrates that aren't too thick. I seldom resort to any other method now.
The Washboard is made by hand, there may be small imperfections - will not effect performance.
Send an email through my profile page if interested, first come first serve. I will be making more of these, but as I understand the rules I am only allowed to list for sale what I have on hand? Will update this listing as I go.
Thanks for looking!
CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE WITH THE WASHBOARD SHARPENING SYSTEM!
WHAT IT IS:
The Washboard is a heavily textured 2"x8(6)"x1/4" acrylic plate bonded to a wood base (custom sizes available). It sharpens and polishes using any abrasive that can be applied to a thin substrate.
HOW IT WORKS:
An array of narrow ridges interrupted by thin relief cuts, dramatically increase the abrasive action of grease and wax based compounds to grind and polish. It manages a large improvement in plain paper for finish stropping/cleaning/tarnish removal as well. Spot pressure generated can be high enough that the steel experiences a burnishing effect similar to the use of a smooth steel, but without the need for high levels of precision, or dangers of work-hardening the cutting edge. Used with sandpaper or lapping film, it provides greater tactile feedback than a flat plate.
WHY USE IT:
Its versatile and easy.
The ridges and relief cuts work to increase the pressure exerted by abrasive particles without an increase in overall pressure, they also compress the paper and make it much more dense - the edge doesn't sink in, rounding the cutting edge as it might with a more compliant surface. Even with relatively heavy pressure the surface remains unyielding, yet burr formation is still mild compared to grinding on a fixed abrasive. Edges stay crisp and "catchy", even when stropped many times.
The ridges and relief cuts also provide much greater tactile and auditory feedback - one can tell if they are on the bevel, the shoulder, or if they are just beginning to ride the cutting edge (if one isn't at the proper angle it will feel like they're moving the cutting tool over a washboard. The amount of feedback increases as one gets further from the ideal or target angle.). This makes it a much nicer tool than many other choices when one is trying to quickly touch up an edge, or is doing a moderate amount of work restoring a worn edge. This characteristic is extremely useful for maintaining angle control when working with sandpaper or lapping films. End result is greater consistency for beginners and casual users, and greater versatility for more experienced users.
It can be used to polish larger areas and to maintain overall blade geometry during maintenance sharpening, touch up battered edges, do crisp work on V bevel, convex, Scandi etc, all with a minimum of steel loss, burr formation, and fuss. Best of all perhaps, its characteristics only change when you want them to - it is unaffected by loading, glazing, contamination, nicks in the surface.
Due to its light weight and flexibility, one can carry a complete sharpening setup that weighs only ounces yet has the feel and convenience of an 8 or 6" bench stone.
BEST PRACTICES:
It was designed to work with 20# Bond, 50# text, 75GSM copy paper - these are all different designations of the same basic copy paper. Lined writing paper found in most spiral notebooks is very effective as well. Using it with other papers or materials is possible and can yield good results, but care should be taken.
If the paper is of a lighter weight such as newsprint, the possibility of damage will increase. Either riding the outside corner of the Washboard or the teeth wearing through the paper become more likely to harm the edge or the board itself, so extra attention is important. In the interest of obtaining consistent results, avoid using coated (glossy) papers that have been printed on. While good results can be had, most end-user gloss paper might be treated with a wide variety of varnishes that could adversely effect results with no obvious cause.
If the paper is somewhat thicker than spec'd, it can be pre-compressed by wrapping it around the Washboard, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean dry rag or paper towel using pressure. Additional sheets of paper can be used if an even softer surface is desired, such as for Scandi grinds and full convex edges, or for general polishing.
Do not store or use the board with the working surface in direct contact with a stone or other hard surface - if the teeth become damaged or smoothed out, the Washboard will still work, but not as efficiently, and there is no way to repair it.
The Washboard can be used with a wide variety of abrasive compounds, simply make certain the compound is rated for steel or stainless steel, and understand if it is for heavy cleaning or final polishing. Abrasives intended for polishing plastics or precious metals will not work well if at all. Also, the abrasive must not be water-based or the paper will disintegrate with very little use if not allowed to dry.
The Washboard excels when used with wet/dry sandpaper and lapping films, simply secure around the board the appropriate grit paper and it becomes a full-service sharpening system. Remove debris from the sandpaper with a large eraser or crepe rubber. Water can be used with this sandpaper as well if desired. For maintaining edges, paper with compound is all that should be required.
[video=youtube;aAL2zpYNhbg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAL2zpYNhbg[/video]
[video=youtube;PaBW1jCDOJY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaBW1jCDOJY[/video]
[video=youtube;UVV5aiv3V3g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVV5aiv3V3g[/video]