^-^-^-^-Washboard Freehand Sharpening Kits-^-^-^-^

Status
Not open for further replies.
Feedback: +10 / =0 / -0
Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Messages
6,642
IMG_1052_zpsccdafcd8.jpg



Still only $48 shipping included lower 48 - shipping elsewhere at cost.

They come with:

One Washboard sharpening plate on wooden base - approx 2"x 8" x 1"

4 color illustrated user's guide - 8 pages

Your choice of custom formulated Aluminum Oxide (Good for carbon steel and common grades of stainless) or Silicon Carbide (better for steels with high alloy and/or carbide content) honing compound - approx 4k JIS - Additional slugs of compound available for $8 ea

One sheet of 320 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

One sheet of 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper


The videos below show how to use it start to finish. Experienced sharpeners might choose to grind their edges some other way, and only use it for a final stropping base. I believe it is still worth every penny even if used only to finish and maintain an edge. Initially that's all I intended to use it for, but realized it didn't just work well with paper, but with all flexible substrates that aren't too thick. I seldom resort to any other method now.

The Washboard is made by hand, there may be small imperfections - will not effect performance.

Send an email through my profile page if interested, first come first serve. I will be making more of these, but as I understand the rules I am only allowed to list for sale what I have on hand? Will update this listing as I go.

Thanks for looking!

CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE WITH THE WASHBOARD SHARPENING SYSTEM!


WHAT IT IS:

The Washboard is a heavily textured 2"x8(6)"x1/4" acrylic plate bonded to a wood base (custom sizes available). It sharpens and polishes using any abrasive that can be applied to a thin substrate.


HOW IT WORKS:

An array of narrow ridges interrupted by thin relief cuts, dramatically increase the abrasive action of grease and wax based compounds to grind and polish. It manages a large improvement in plain paper for finish stropping/cleaning/tarnish removal as well. Spot pressure generated can be high enough that the steel experiences a burnishing effect similar to the use of a smooth steel, but without the need for high levels of precision, or dangers of work-hardening the cutting edge. Used with sandpaper or lapping film, it provides greater tactile feedback than a flat plate.


WHY USE IT:

Its versatile and easy.

The ridges and relief cuts work to increase the pressure exerted by abrasive particles without an increase in overall pressure, they also compress the paper and make it much more dense - the edge doesn't sink in, rounding the cutting edge as it might with a more compliant surface. Even with relatively heavy pressure the surface remains unyielding, yet burr formation is still mild compared to grinding on a fixed abrasive. Edges stay crisp and "catchy", even when stropped many times.

The ridges and relief cuts also provide much greater tactile and auditory feedback - one can tell if they are on the bevel, the shoulder, or if they are just beginning to ride the cutting edge (if one isn't at the proper angle it will feel like they're moving the cutting tool over a washboard. The amount of feedback increases as one gets further from the ideal or target angle.). This makes it a much nicer tool than many other choices when one is trying to quickly touch up an edge, or is doing a moderate amount of work restoring a worn edge. This characteristic is extremely useful for maintaining angle control when working with sandpaper or lapping films. End result is greater consistency for beginners and casual users, and greater versatility for more experienced users.

It can be used to polish larger areas and to maintain overall blade geometry during maintenance sharpening, touch up battered edges, do crisp work on V bevel, convex, Scandi etc, all with a minimum of steel loss, burr formation, and fuss. Best of all perhaps, its characteristics only change when you want them to - it is unaffected by loading, glazing, contamination, nicks in the surface.

Due to its light weight and flexibility, one can carry a complete sharpening setup that weighs only ounces yet has the feel and convenience of an 8 or 6" bench stone.

BEST PRACTICES:

It was designed to work with 20# Bond, 50# text, 75GSM copy paper - these are all different designations of the same basic copy paper. Lined writing paper found in most spiral notebooks is very effective as well. Using it with other papers or materials is possible and can yield good results, but care should be taken.

If the paper is of a lighter weight such as newsprint, the possibility of damage will increase. Either riding the outside corner of the Washboard or the teeth wearing through the paper become more likely to harm the edge or the board itself, so extra attention is important. In the interest of obtaining consistent results, avoid using coated (glossy) papers that have been printed on. While good results can be had, most end-user gloss paper might be treated with a wide variety of varnishes that could adversely effect results with no obvious cause.

If the paper is somewhat thicker than spec'd, it can be pre-compressed by wrapping it around the Washboard, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean dry rag or paper towel using pressure. Additional sheets of paper can be used if an even softer surface is desired, such as for Scandi grinds and full convex edges, or for general polishing.


Do not store or use the board with the working surface in direct contact with a stone or other hard surface - if the teeth become damaged or smoothed out, the Washboard will still work, but not as efficiently, and there is no way to repair it.


The Washboard can be used with a wide variety of abrasive compounds, simply make certain the compound is rated for steel or stainless steel, and understand if it is for heavy cleaning or final polishing. Abrasives intended for polishing plastics or precious metals will not work well if at all. Also, the abrasive must not be water-based or the paper will disintegrate with very little use if not allowed to dry.

The Washboard excels when used with wet/dry sandpaper and lapping films, simply secure around the board the appropriate grit paper and it becomes a full-service sharpening system. Remove debris from the sandpaper with a large eraser or crepe rubber. Water can be used with this sandpaper as well if desired. For maintaining edges, paper with compound is all that should be required.


[video=youtube;aAL2zpYNhbg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAL2zpYNhbg[/video]

[video=youtube;PaBW1jCDOJY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaBW1jCDOJY[/video]


[video=youtube;UVV5aiv3V3g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVV5aiv3V3g[/video]
 
Fourth video in the series:
[video=youtube;fO8LtpSdPYA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO8LtpSdPYA[/video]


The fifth "how to" video, this one showing how pressure relates to use of the Washboard for tailored results. Also a few general tips for convex sharpening on a hard surface.

[video=youtube;SalomUAvMHI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SalomUAvMHI[/video]


And here's the Washboard touching up a 14" Marbles jungle machete:

[video=youtube;Uidso_8KJ38]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uidso_8KJ38[/video]


And this series of micrographs showing some of the results in action.

Have been carrying the Jarvenpaa puukko from the WB videos since I made them, without any further maintenance - about a month and a half now. Have done an overnight backpacking trip as well as daily use since then, much of the wear on the blade is likely from cutting my daily apple and not wiping the blade completely dry, so tarnished as well as worn. many boxes, small pieces of wood, I can't remember all of it...Still, some of the edge wear is fairly nasty. The blade couldn't cut paper cleanly, wasn't three finger sticky, and could only shave arm hair when it snagged some. Due to the Scandi grind at about 24 degrees, it was still cutting reasonably well for a dull knife. One thing that I thought was exceptionally interesting is the second wear image at 1000x. To the unaided eye it just looked like it was throwing back a small glint of light - up close you can see what looks like the edge fractured or flaked off and the grind pattern just sort of stops at a worn ledge. This knife holds an edge very well, better than my other carbon steel knives for the most part, so I don't believe there's any issues with the steel and it wasn't exemplary of the edge as a whole - must've hit something that didn't agree with it. An awful lot happens over a month and a half.

In the only 400x pic, the red blob out of focus upper right is a spec of red toner - 5u average size, a bit smaller than a single red blood cell. Gives an additional feel for how short the depth of field is at this magnification.

Anyway, about 40 passes on the WB, stopping half way in to apply a second hit of compound, and another 10 or so on two sheets of plain paper - back to scary sharp. Wait for it..."CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE!"

First two pics at 1000x before reconditioning.

First one looking rough:

JP_1000_pre_1_zps424a3db5.jpg


And looking real rough:

JP_1000_pre_2_zpsa0b0f94b.jpg


Now at 400x after getting worked on:

JP_400_post_1_zps0e74f41c.jpg


And at 1000x - totally unrecognizable, thank goodness! That knife was in embarrassing shape but made for a good experiment/QC - back to three finger sticky tree-topping in about one tenth the time it took to catch the pics.

JP_1000_post_1_zps338ba9ba.jpg



HH

And some of the owner feedback to date:


I purchased the washboard system and have been very impressed with it so far. It is a great tool to teach you consistency with your strokes, and I wish I had one for when I was first learning to freehand. The unique feedback really lets you know if you're holding the knife at the right angle. It's kind of like a guided system, but without the super high price

For reference, I have some very expensive Naniwa Chosera waterstones. I use the washboard more frequently than the Choseras.

I picked one of these up from Martin about a week and a half or two weeks ago. All though I have not had a chance/need to do any re-profiling with the WB,I have stropped a few blades with plain copy paper and a little compound with very good results. Martin does a great job on making these. He also does a fantastic job of assembling the over all package that he sends to his customer. I was very impressed with the instructions that are included,probably the best instructions I have seen ever! You can really tell he developed this product out of the passion he has for making things sharp and he wants his customers to be able to get the most out of it as possible.


I'm really liking the washboard and the feedback it provides; it's helped me identify certain inconsistency, and to understand better some of my (non)results up to this point.
I've also been meaning to commend you on the included manual. You definitely need to provide illustration and text credits (even just "by Martin Miller" somewhere if they're yours alone, or other attribution if you had assistance).
I've started signing them as they get boxed up...


I have finished sharpening another scandi knife today, just good old O1 steel and it was quite dull. Anyway, I scrubbed away on 1000 JWS, then 3000, then onto your WB with 2 sheets 24lb/90g/m2 printer paper with white compound. Then plain paper, again 2 sheets. The last two strokes very light with a bit more pressure towards the apex on purpose so I could feel being "off" from the feedback (the rough sound). But the endresult is outstanding. Not sure what the plain paper can do other than burnishing the apex but it sure made a difference (a microbit of a burr that it removed?). Maintenance on white or black compound is a breeze!
Also, I used 2000 grit sandpaper the first time on the WB to remove a burr from a new scandi. I did not want to go on JWS, thought that was too cruel. Worked very well and very good feedback.


... the more I use the WB, the more I like it and the more I think it's a jackpot for a lot of frustrated stroppers. Like me.
I guess it suits my needs, rather than forcing me to adapt to its peculiarities. I think perhaps that is what I like best about it. Thank you for being thoughtful and persistent enough to develop the idea and bring it to life.

After playing with this a little I am now getting it Just been using the copy paper and some compound to strop some blades and really getting some great results. Cuts the burr off after putting a bevel on with an wicked edge, cant wait to use some sand paper. Thanks so much for marketing these, your instruction booklet makes it easy!

I don't mind you quoting me, you can keep my name in there too, I like supporting a great product like yours. I have been using some compound I had around since yours is in a drawer somewhere. The paper with some compound sure cuts nice and polishes the edge well. My EDC has a 52100 warnie blade that gets used often. I just use a sharpmaker then the block to finish it off. The edge pops hair easily and stays at a working edge after a treatment. Great product and easy to use to maintain my blades. Martin


Do not hesitate to contact me with questions or comments, am always glad to respond.

Martin (HH)
 
Video added - number 7. This one shows how to use it with a few variations. First is an abbreviated progression, second is in conjunction with a combination silicon carbide stone.

[video=youtube;6Y2EMOQRLiA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6Y2EMOQRLiA[/video]

And here's number 8, showing a bit more versatility but the same basic principles:
[video=youtube;YxdzCV-JkMc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YxdzCV-JkMc[/video]


And number 9 detailing some aspects of the silicon carbide compound
[video=youtube;Ls0WJp08iVY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls0WJp08iVY&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Will you ever offer combo sets of something like a norton silicon carbide stones with the washboard? Something like an all in one kit? On the other hand do you sell the washboard just by itself without sandpaper? I have A LOT of unused sandpaper from my sandpaper and glass days and maybe a few weeks or so I might want to give the washboard a go. Thanks, BN.
 
Will you ever offer combo sets of something like a norton silicon carbide stones with the washboard? Something like an all in one kit? On the other hand do you sell the washboard just by itself without sandpaper? I have A LOT of unused sandpaper from my sandpaper and glass days and maybe a few weeks or so I might want to give the washboard a go. Thanks, BN.

I probably could, but am somewhat reluctant to do so. As explained in the video, if people use some type of compound that doesn't work well, it will effect their view of the board. That's why I include the materials I do, because I know it works and owners can go from there. I have no problem sending with no sandpaper, but would only knock a few bucks off the price (I don't mark up the sandpaper) - eventually you'll need more wet/dry anyway. If I had enough demand for Crystalon stones it could be a nice option, haven't contacted anyone at SG about this, no idea what the minimum order is. It would make a nice set, but using sandpaper on the WB works very well (better) too.
I've mentioned a handful of times, if I lost all my gear the first thing I'd replace would be my WB, not my Crystalon. My ACE silicon carbide stone works well enough with my Washboard, that's what I used in the #7 video. In highly scientific side-by-side testing, the mud from the ACE stone outperformed the mud from a Crystalon stone even tho the Crystalon makes a little nicer edge to start.

PM me if still interested, am sure I can get you a board with no toppings :). I can also get you a 6" board that would be a bit less expensive.

Thanks
Martin
 
I probably could, but am somewhat reluctant to do so. As explained in the video, if people use some type of compound that doesn't work well, it will effect their view of the board. That's why I include the materials I do, because I know it works and owners can go from there. I have no problem sending with no sandpaper, but would only knock a few bucks off the price (I don't mark up the sandpaper) - eventually you'll need more wet/dry anyway. If I had enough demand for Crystalon stones it could be a nice option, haven't contacted anyone at SG about this, no idea what the minimum order is. It would make a nice set, but using sandpaper on the WB works very well (better) too.
I've mentioned a handful of times, if I lost all my gear the first thing I'd replace would be my WB, not my Crystalon. My ACE silicon carbide stone works well enough with my Washboard, that's what I used in the #7 video. In highly scientific side-by-side testing, the mud from the ACE stone outperformed the mud from a Crystalon stone even tho the Crystalon makes a little nicer edge to start.

PM me if still interested, am sure I can get you a board with no toppings :). I can also get you a 6" board that would be a bit less expensive.

Thanks
Martin
Thanks for the reply. Would you say your 320 grit sandpaper works better to reprofile than the sic carbide stone then? When I was learning on sandpaper and glass the 320 grit sandpaper would cut rather slow once it was worn in. The reason I asked about the crystalon stone is that I really want to try it and since I may get a washboard later on I was curious if you did a combo deal. Anyhow the washboard seems to work really well so once funds permit, I intend to buy one.
 
Thanks for the reply. Would you say your 320 grit sandpaper works better to reprofile than the sic carbide stone then? When I was learning on sandpaper and glass the 320 grit sandpaper would cut rather slow once it was worn in. The reason I asked about the crystalon stone is that I really want to try it and since I may get a washboard later on I was curious if you did a combo deal. Anyhow the washboard seems to work really well so once funds permit, I intend to buy one.

I'd say the 320 falls between the coarse and fine on a combination stone. A 120-180 grit sheet might be closer to the Coarse Crystalon, and a 400 or 500 grit would approximate the fine side of the stone. I did a lot of work on a Fiskars hatchet using 180 grit to lower the inclusive, then finished with the 320/600/compound progression - was a fair amount of grinding. The video quality was horrible so I never linked to it, but worked very well (and the 180 paper looks almost new). I also recently redid the factory grinds on a BK24 starting out with the 320grit, used a fresh sheet to start. It was the first time I'd changed it out since I made the earliest videos, several months.

Yes, the sandpaper slows down a lot once it gets beat up, is one of the drawbacks to using it. Balances out with convenience and ease of use - no fluid needed, light weight, versatile, replaceable. I stress it in the videos and in the manual - it is very important to keep the paper clean as you go anytime you are sharpening with sandpaper. If you let the removed steel and SiC debris build up on the sheet it will ruin the paper very quickly. I use light pressure, stop often, move around the entire surface, and keep it clean with an eraser - the paper lasts a long time. Grind the debris into the sheet and it will noticeably falter after a session or two.

I love my Crystalon stone and recommend it often, but in all honesty the WB gets the nod almost every time. Personally, I didn't much care for sharpening with sandpaper before trying it on a Washboard - the edges never seemed "crisp" enough, the shoulder transitions were softer than I'd like to see (even using it over a metal plate), so-so feedback compared to a stone. The WB takes care of the feedback and "soft" effect. Between that and learning to keep the paper clean has totally changed my opinion.

Am glad you're interested, keep those questions coming.
Take care
Martin
 
Am down to two kits and might not have more available until after the Holidays. Can do custom sizes and will adjust price accordingly.
Have made several 3"x10" sold for additional $20 and some 2"x6" for $6.00 off.

Feel free to contact with any questions or comments.

Martin
 
Martin,

Recently touching up several knives on WB with black & white compound. Since the knives edge angle varied, I found that listening to WB feedback helped a lot to match the angle when I don't intend to rebevel. This shortened the work tremendously! :thumbup:

Tested k390, 52100 (two different ones). All worked well!

PS: Happy holidays!
 
Chris "Anagarika";12964742 said:
Martin,

Recently touching up several knives on WB with black & white compound. Since the knives edge angle varied, I found that listening to WB feedback helped a lot to match the angle when I don't intend to rebevel. This shortened the work tremendously! :thumbup:

Tested k390, 52100 (two different ones). All worked well!

PS: Happy holidays!

Chris, Happy Holidays to you and yours!

One of the things that I really take for granted now is that extra feedback, especially on paper when doing touch-ups. I don't even think about it - just put the edge to the WB, find the angle on the first pass, and hit a bunch of times. Back when I was doing all my maintenance on a strop or backhoning on waterstones, I'd have to approach the first few passes like I was cracking open a safe to make sure I didn't round over the edge or nail the shoulder too much until I nailed the correct angle. Totally different level of convenience. The job it does on bigger cutters and machetes is nothing short of impressive when you consider how much real-estate is being covered. For finishing and maintenance I cannot imagine any other freehand method doing a more reliable job in less time - I'm not even sure a powered system could do better, at least not without a guide.


Always glad to hear success stories! Actually would be glad to hear any gripes too, would give me a chance to make it right. Am sure there must be some but none that anyone has contacted me with to date...

To all, Email "tech" support (within reason) comes with the purchase, am glad to have owners contact me after the purchase.

Take care
Martin
 
And that's it till after Christmas, am out of compound and blanks with exception of one that is spoken for. I'll update the listing when I have more to ship, thanks again to all who take the plunge and those who don't but stop to check out the videos. Feel free to contact with questions or comments and have a Happy Holiday!

Martin
 
Although I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet, I do appreciate it that you take the time to PM or email me back about all my questions and concerns!

Happy Holiday's to you, Martin!

Thx.
 
Although I haven't pulled the trigger on one yet, I do appreciate it that you take the time to PM or email me back about all my questions and concerns!

Happy Holiday's to you, Martin!

Thx.

Mike,

Any time! The hard part is getting me to shut up...

Take care
Martin
 
Put me on "pre-order" for when you have the next run of washboards ready. I'll grab one when it you have em available again.

Thanks,
BN

On another note, when cleaning sandpaper with an eraser, can you use any kind of eraser? Or is there a specific kind of eraser that is meant for or good at cleaning/unclogging sandpaper?
 
Last edited:
Put me on "pre-order" for when you have the next run of washboards ready. I'll grab one when it you have em available again.

Thanks,
BN

On another note, when cleaning sandpaper with an eraser, can you use any kind of eraser? Or is there a specific kind of eraser that is meant for or good at cleaning/unclogging sandpaper?

Consider yourself on pre-order!

Any eraser works as do the crepe rubber blocks sold for cleaning beltsanders. I wouldn't recommend the kneaded grey erasers sold in the art supply stores, but the pink or white ones work great. I might start including a small chunk in the kits if pricing is good. Is a great time to buy one if I do say so myself. Have been taking this latest downtime to redo my jigs, visually the Washboards are looking better than ever though still handmade - the only power tool I use is a table saw to cut the blanks.

Merry Christmas and I'll be in touch after the New Year. Additional thanks for drawing me back to the thread - I sent a bunch out for presents and need to send the video links tomorrow to make the gift complete.

Take care
Martin
 
This is a quote of a email from me to Martin giving Martin some feedback on the Washboard and how It helps me put a edge on thinner blades I make.
Martin
I got the washboard yesterday. I sharpened two knives on it and I must say ,this thing is freakin' awesome! The two knives that I sharpened were knives I made so they did not have any edge at all. All that I am using is one sheet of 400* Rhynowet RedLine( per knife) . That gives me 3 strips (per sheet). I use the first strip to set my bevels then I switch to a fresh strip and go until sharp. Switch to copy paper with your black compound to refine the edge. It is so quick, easy and no chance of burning the edge and ruining the heat treat. Martin, Really man,I love the washboard ! I am using the degree wedges from Fred Rowe's Bubble jig in conjunction with the WB, so I know what the edge angle is set at. Customers do not like to hear words like "about" "around" or "pretty close to " when they ask what the edge angle is on a knife they are buying or bought . This way I can give them a exact number. I have found when given a choice, people will choose that I hand sharpen their knife as apposed to sharpening on a belt sander.
I have a idea that I think could be beneficial to you and your customers. It is for you to offer a set of cut angle wedges kind of like what Fred offers with his Bubble Jig .The difference would be that yours would be more geared toward sharpening angles and would come to almost a zero edge to meet the WB. The only problem I have using Fred's is that I need to stack a few wedges to get the angle I want and there is a lip/ drop off so I can not put the edge of the blade touching the WB and the degree wedge at the same time unless it is a tall blade like a chef's knife or something. Does any of this make sense ? You could offer it as a additional re-profiling kit.
Kevin
This is my 2nd Washboard and I have pretty much stopped using my stones all together. I can not recommend Martin or his Wahboard highly enough! A great product from a great guy! Thanks so much Martin! The Washboard has made my knives sharper and better.
 
This is a quote of a email from me to Martin giving Martin some feedback on the Washboard and how It helps me put a edge on thinner blades I make.
Martin
I got the washboard yesterday. I sharpened two knives on it and I must say ,this thing is freakin' awesome! The two knives that I sharpened were knives I made so they did not have any edge at all. All that I am using is one sheet of 400* Rhynowet RedLine( per knife) . That gives me 3 strips (per sheet). I use the first strip to set my bevels then I switch to a fresh strip and go until sharp. Switch to copy paper with your black compound to refine the edge. It is so quick, easy and no chance of burning the edge and ruining the heat treat. Martin, Really man,I love the washboard ! I am using the degree wedges from Fred Rowe's Bubble jig in conjunction with the WB, so I know what the edge angle is set at. Customers do not like to hear words like "about" "around" or "pretty close to " when they ask what the edge angle is on a knife they are buying or bought . This way I can give them a exact number. I have found when given a choice, people will choose that I hand sharpen their knife as apposed to sharpening on a belt sander.
I have a idea that I think could be beneficial to you and your customers. It is for you to offer a set of cut angle wedges kind of like what Fred offers with his Bubble Jig .The difference would be that yours would be more geared toward sharpening angles and would come to almost a zero edge to meet the WB. The only problem I have using Fred's is that I need to stack a few wedges to get the angle I want and there is a lip/ drop off so I can not put the edge of the blade touching the WB and the degree wedge at the same time unless it is a tall blade like a chef's knife or something. Does any of this make sense ? You could offer it as a additional re-profiling kit.
Kevin

This is my 2nd Washboard and I have pretty much stopped using my stones all together. I can not recommend Martin or his Wahboard highly enough! A great product from a great guy! Thanks so much Martin! The Washboard has made my knives sharper and better.

That's great Kevin! Am real happy its working out, especially with the way the 3"x10" turned out. That's pretty much as big as I can go with the tools I have.

Am still chewing over how I could include some sort of basic angle guide. Am not sure if hardware store hardwood shims are a standard angle, a couple of those cut down might be helpful. Am open to suggestions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top