-^-^-^-Washboard Freehand Sharpening Kits-^-^-^-

[HeavyHanded]

MADE BY HAND - INNOVATIVE AND INTUITIVE FREEHAND SHARPENING SOLUTION

SHARPENS BELT AND POCKET KNIVES

SHARPENS KITCHEN CUTLERY

SHARPENS HATCHETS, AXES, MACHETES

BASES DOUBLE AS IMPROVISED ANGLE GUIDE FOR LEARNING PURPOSES



I have 15 kits available with more in process.

Price is still $56.00 shipping included lower 48 - shipping elsewhere is $50.00 plus cost.

They come with:

One Washboard sharpening plate on wooden base - approx 2"x 8" x 1"

Set of bases/substrate anchors and four loose anchors for offhand work. Bases can be stacked to create an improvised angle guide - two bases = approx 15* incline.

4 color illustrated user's guide - now 14 pages. Electronic copy linked below of first 12 pages (to be updated).

One slug of Silicon Carbide honing compound - approx 4k JIS - Additional slugs of compound available for $8 ea

One sheet of 320 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

One sheet of 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

Small piece of pink eraser for maintaining the sandpaper in use


The videos below show how to use it start to finish. Experienced sharpeners might choose to grind their edges some other way, and only use it for a final stropping base. I believe it is still worth every penny even if used only to finish and maintain an edge. Initially that's all I intended to use it for, but realized it didn't just work well with paper, but with all flexible substrates that aren't too thick. I seldom resort to any other method now.

The Washboard is made by hand, there may be small imperfections - will not effect performance.

Send a PM through my profile page if interested, or email at - martym@merlincolor.com - first come first serve. I will be making more of these, but as I understand the rules I am only allowed to list for sale what I have on hand? Will update this listing as I go.

Thanks for looking!

Here's a link to the PDF copy of the User's Manual:

Dalerich helped out with a collated version here (Thanks again):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2359386/Washboard%20sharpener.pdf

And single pages:
Cover - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/01_zps709e0805.jpg
Pg 2 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/02_zps159c5ccd.jpg
Pg 3 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/04_zps999bb9e7.jpg
Pg 4 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/03_zpsb35802e0.jpg
Pg 5 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/05_zps813d63d9.jpg
Pg 6 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/06_zpsbac9628a.jpg
Pg 7 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/07_zps24df8086.jpg
Pg 8 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/08_zpse4b1d741.jpg
Pg 9 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/09_zpse478d3fc.jpg
Pg 10 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/10_zps5a80a656.jpg
Pg 11 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/...e-e0a6-4b41-9475-d941c1353feb_zpsb0ff2231.jpg
Pg 12 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/...0-6e96-4050-b8ea-12bec9aeb472_zps32dbd1a2.jpg
Pg 13 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/13_zpsa0e7f825.jpg
Pg 14 - http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx126/Millermeter_2010/14_zpsfc7e7e1d.jpg

CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE WITH THE WASHBOARD SHARPENING SYSTEM!



WHAT IT IS:

The Washboard is a heavily textured 2"x8" acrylic plate bonded to a wood base (custom sizes available). It sharpens and polishes using any abrasive that can be applied to a thin substrate. It can be used to sharpen and maintain a wide variety of cutting tools.

WHY USE IT:

Its versatile and easy.

The unique arrangement of ridges and relief cuts work to increase the pressure exerted by abrasive particles without an increase in overall pressure, they also compress the paper and make it much more dense - the edge doesn't sink in, rounding the cutting edge as it might with a more compliant surface. Even with relatively heavy pressure the surface remains unyielding, yet burr formation is still mild compared to grinding on a fixed abrasive. Edges stay crisp and "catchy", even when stropped many times.

The ridges and relief cuts also provide much greater tactile and auditory feedback - one can tell if they are on the bevel, the shoulder, or if they are just beginning to ride the cutting edge (if one isn't at the proper angle it will feel like they're moving the cutting tool over a washboard. The amount of feedback increases as one gets further from the ideal or target angle.). This makes it a much nicer tool than many other choices when one is trying to quickly touch up an edge, or is doing a moderate amount of work restoring a worn edge. This characteristic can also be useful for maintaining angle control when working with sandpaper or lapping films.

It can be used to polish larger areas and to maintain overall blade geometry during maintenance sharpening, touch up battered edges, do crisp work on V bevel, convex, Scandi etc, all with a minimum of steel loss, burr formation, and fuss. Best of all perhaps, its characteristics only change when you want them to - it is unaffected by loading, glazing, contamination, nicks in the surface.

Due to its light weight and flexibility, one can carry a complete sharpening setup that weighs only ounces yet has the feel and convenience of a full set-up.

BEST PRACTICES:

It was designed to work with 20# Bond, 50# text, 75GSM copy paper - these are all different designations of the same basic copy paper. Lined writing paper found in most spiral notebooks is the same base weight as well. Using it with other papers or materials is possible and can yield good results, but care should be taken.

If the paper is somewhat thicker than spec'd, it can be pre-compressed by wrapping it around the Washboard, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean dry rag or paper towel using pressure. This is actually a good practice for all weight papers. Additional sheets of paper can be used if an even softer surface is desired, such as for Scandi grinds and full convex edges, or for general polishing.

Do not store or use the board with the working surface in direct contact with a stone or other hard surface - if the teeth become damaged or smoothed out, the Washboard will still work, but not as efficiently, and there is no way to repair it.

The Washboard can be used with a wide variety of abrasive compounds, simply make certain the compound is rated for steel or stainless steel, and understand if it is for heavy cleaning or final polishing. Water-based abrasives should be allowed to dry on the paper before use.

The Washboard excels when used with sandpapers and lapping films, simply secure around the board the appropriate grit paper and it becomes a full-service sharpening system. Make sure to use silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper, available at most auto parts stores. Remove debris from the sandpaper with a large eraser or crepe rubber. Water can be used with this sandpaper as well if desired. Lapping films coated with diamond can be used with a bit of soapy water and in this way even very high vanadium carbide or ceramic blades can be sharpened on the Washboard. For maintaining edges on all common steels, paper with compound is all that should be required.

If the paper becomes damaged or loaded, simply recycle it.

Complete instruction for use can be found in the User's Videos and User's Manual pages.

First video:
[video=youtube;aAL2zpYNhbg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAL2zpYNhbg[/video]

Second:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaBW1jCDOJY

Third:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVV5aiv3V3g

Fourth video in the series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO8LtpSdPYA


The fifth "how to" video, this one showing how pressure relates to use of the Washboard for tailored results. Also a few general tips for convex sharpening on a hard surface.

[video=youtube;SalomUAvMHI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SalomUAvMHI[/video]


And here's #6, touching up a 14" Marbles jungle machete:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uidso_8KJ38


Micrographs showing some of the results in action...

Off to the races - all pics at 640x, slight ripple effect is scratch pattern is camera induced.

First one is off the 320 grit sandpaper, test knife is the younger cousin of the CS Recon from the video, a smaller Voyager - Aus8 flat grind. I did nothing to it coming off the sandpaper except to do the best job I could in terms of burr removal and a wipe on my pant leg. All methods etc are right outta the video.

Same edge after stropping on paper - noticeable improvement in cutting. A perfect hard-use edge or for utility cutting but doesn't really look different, maybe a touch more polished. Maybe there isn't much to this after all?

On to the 600 grit sandpaper. I'm pretty sure I could go straight to the compound, but it would be a bit of extra work and my compound blocks are not that big, better to save it for better effect...Again, this was straight off the sandpaper - cutting even better than the 320 grit with paper stropping, at least in terms of fine cutting - will now crosscut paper noisily but confidently, still plenty of bite. A real good kitchen utility edge.

And after stropping with paper, about 30 passes with moderate pressure. This was a bit impressive. I expected a difference but not to this degree. The scratch pattern has been smoothed across the high points and the cutting edge has a burnished look very similar to a steeling right along the apex. A very nice jump up in cutting ability - now crosscutting paper quietly yet still plenty of 'catch' to the edge.

On to the compound. Was wondering just how much more improvement I'd see with this compound - it is formulated for maintenance, not just a final caress. Another jump up in fine cutting yet still very three finger sticky. Now very close to my comfortable upper limit for EDU. Again, easily crosscutting paper with a whisper and cutting a circle no problem.

And after stropping with paper, again about 30 passes. Now feeling very sharp, cutting across my finger pads when I do a three finger test. Still feeling a bit of "drag" as it does so, I can make out the surface cuts - they'll be more visible tomorrow. Still some surface variation along the edge - this will last a while and be very sharp as it does so. For myself I'm not sure I'd bother with the paper stropping (and I usually don't) - plenty sharp without that extra step.

And when it feels that sharp I can't stop myself from pulling a hair outta my head...

"CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE!" (with a Washboard )
[/QUOTE]




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Video added - number 7. This one shows how to use it with a few variations. First is an abbreviated progression, second is in conjunction with a combination silicon carbide stone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6Y2EMOQRLiA

And here's number 8, showing a bit more versatility but the same basic principles:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YxdzCV-JkMc


And number 9 detailing some aspects of the silicon carbide compound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls0WJp08iVY&feature=youtu.be


Short video showing how the bases can be used as an effective angle guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPCws055hiY

Do not hesitate to contact me with questions or comments, am always glad to respond.

Martin (HH)

and the link back to previous listings with additional owner responses, additional micrographs etc:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1142556-washboard-kits-for-sale
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1122335-Washboard-kits-in-stock
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1108266-New-offering-of-Washboard-kits!

 

[HeavyHanded]

And some of the owner feedback to date:

I purchased the washboard system and have been very impressed with it so far. It is a great tool to teach you consistency with your strokes, and I wish I had one for when I was first learning to freehand. The unique feedback really lets you know if you're holding the knife at the right angle. It's kind of like a guided system, but without the super high price

For reference, I have some very expensive Naniwa Chosera waterstones. I use the washboard more frequently than the Choseras.

I picked one of these up from Martin about a week and a half or two weeks ago. All though I have not had a chance/need to do any re-profiling with the WB,I have stropped a few blades with plain copy paper and a little compound with very good results. Martin does a great job on making these. He also does a fantastic job of assembling the over all package that he sends to his customer. I was very impressed with the instructions that are included,probably the best instructions I have seen ever! You can really tell he developed this product out of the passion he has for making things sharp and he wants his customers to be able to get the most out of it as possible.

I'm really liking the washboard and the feedback it provides; it's helped me identify certain inconsistency, and to understand better some of my (non)results up to this point.
I've also been meaning to commend you on the included manual. You definitely need to provide illustration and text credits (even just "by Martin Miller" somewhere if they're yours alone, or other attribution if you had assistance).

I've started signing them as they get boxed up...

I have finished sharpening another scandi knife today, just good old O1 steel and it was quite dull. Anyway, I scrubbed away on 1000 JWS, then 3000, then onto your WB with 2 sheets 24lb/90g/m2 printer paper with white compound. Then plain paper, again 2 sheets. The last two strokes very light with a bit more pressure towards the apex on purpose so I could feel being "off" from the feedback (the rough sound). But the endresult is outstanding. Not sure what the plain paper can do other than burnishing the apex but it sure made a difference (a microbit of a burr that it removed?). Maintenance on white or black compound is a breeze!
Also, I used 2000 grit sandpaper the first time on the WB to remove a burr from a new scandi. I did not want to go on JWS, thought that was too cruel. Worked very well and very good feedback.

... the more I use the WB, the more I like it and the more I think it's a jackpot for a lot of frustrated stroppers. Like me.
I guess it suits my needs, rather than forcing me to adapt to its peculiarities. I think perhaps that is what I like best about it. Thank you for being thoughtful and persistent enough to develop the idea and bring it to life.

After playing with this a little I am now getting it Just been using the copy paper and some compound to strop some blades and really getting some great results. Cuts the burr off after putting a bevel on with an wicked edge, cant wait to use some sand paper. Thanks so much for marketing these, your instruction booklet makes it easy!

I don't mind you quoting me, you can keep my name in there too, I like supporting a great product like yours. I have been using some compound I had around since yours is in a drawer somewhere. The paper with some compound sure cuts nice and polishes the edge well. My EDC has a 52100 warnie blade that gets used often. I just use a sharpmaker then the block to finish it off. The edge pops hair easily and stays at a working edge after a treatment. Great product and easy to use to maintain my blades. Martin

After much deliberation I broke down and ordered a washboard kit, I wish I hadn't hesitated a second, it is easily worth the price charged just to use it as a strop. I have several different sharpening systems, including a KME (diamonds and ceramics) DMT diamond plates and a Sharp Maker. They all have their place but as far as ease of use and bang for the buck the Washboard is top of the food chain.

I received the washboard kit. And he has put a set of great instructions along with the kit. Very easy to use, great feedback audibly and felt through the finger tips. Makes it easy to find the bevel and stay there. Many great instructional videos on youtube if any further tips/instruction is needed.

Very courteous, responsive, and helpful.

I highly recommend this setup to anyone. Can't wait to get more time on the washboard

Thanks
Justin

 

[fishface5]

I will take one will pp you tonite

 

[Bladenoobie1]

Those wooden bases look really nifty Martin. Sorry I haven't been in touch with you much, but I did use the washboard very extensively several weeks ago sharpening nearly a dozen or so knives at a boy scout event.

When my edges need a touch up, I'll hit up the washboard again to see if maybe this time I'll get a "knock your socks off" edge. Of recent I've found some of my knives to be at a 40+ degrees inclusive angle when I had though them to be near 30. I did some reprofiling yesterday and had hair-whittling results. That 10 degrees result in a huge difference of cutting performance haha. Just a quick question though, where do you buy your sic-carbide sandpaper? After my last large sharpening session, the sandpaper is wearing a bit and eventually will need replacing.

Thanks,
Julian

 

[HeavyHanded]

Those wooden bases look really nifty Martin. Sorry I haven't been in touch with you much, but I did use the washboard very extensively several weeks ago sharpening nearly a dozen or so knives at a boy scout event.

When my edges need a touch up, I'll hit up the washboard again to see if maybe this time I'll get a "knock your socks off" edge. Of recent I've found some of my knives to be at a 40+ degrees inclusive angle when I had though them to be near 30. I did some reprofiling yesterday and had hair-whittling results. That 10 degrees result in a huge difference of cutting performance haha. Just a quick question though, where do you buy your sic-carbide sandpaper? After my last large sharpening session, the sandpaper is wearing a bit and eventually will need replacing.

Thanks,
Julian

Ten degrees will make a huge difference, even more so if its a single bevel edge. I even see a big difference between 30* and 26* inclusive.

I get my sandpaper from ACE or a couple of other outlets locally that carry the brand (Gator). Have used 3M as well, and it can be had all over - is very common in auto body departments. Light pressure and keep it clean, it'll hold up well. A good progression is important too - if an edge needs a ton of work is a good idea to keep some 120 or 180 grit around.

Let me know how it goes!

Martin

 

[kelbro]

I couldn't find a PayPal link on your website.