Washboard Sharpening System for sale!

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For sale, five units of The Washboard Sharpening System (as seen on Maintenance Tinkering & Embellishment).

Each unit consists of:

One Washboard sharpening plate on wooden base - approx 2"x 8" x 1"

4 color illustrated user's guide - 8 pages

Piece of custom formulated 85% abrasive content honing compound - approx 4k JIS

One sheet of 320 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

One sheet of 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

Introductory price of $35.00 plus $6.00 shipping to the lower 48, price on subsequent offers will be subject to change.

The videos below show how to use it start to finish. Experienced sharpeners might choose to grind their edges some other way, and only use it for a final stropping base. I believe it is still worth every penny even if used only to finish and maintain an edge. Initially that's all I intended to use it for, but realized it didn't just work well with paper, but with all flexible substrates that aren't too thick. I seldom resort to any other method now.

The Washboard is made by hand, there may be small imperfections - will not effect performance.

Send an email through my profile page if interested, first come first serve. I will be making more of these, but as I understand the rules I am only allowed to list for sale what I have on hand? Will update this listing as I go.

Thanks for looking!

HH
CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE WITH THE WASHBOARD SHARPENING SYSTEM!


WHAT IT IS:

The Washboard is a heavily textured 2"x8(6)"x1/4" acrylic plate bonded to a wood base (custom sizes available). It sharpens and polishes using any abrasive that can be applied to a thin substrate.


HOW IT WORKS:

An array of narrow ridges interrupted by thin relief cuts, dramatically increase the abrasive action of grease and wax based compounds to grind and polish. It manages a large improvement in plain paper for finish stropping/cleaning/tarnish removal as well. Spot pressure generated can be high enough that the steel experiences a burnishing effect similar to the use of a smooth steel, but without the need for high levels of precision, or dangers of work-hardening the cutting edge. Used with sandpaper or lapping film, it provides greater tactile feedback than a flat plate.


WHY USE IT:

Its versatile and easy.

The ridges and relief cuts work to increase the pressure exerted by abrasive particles without an increase in overall pressure, they also compress the paper and make it much more dense - the edge doesn't sink in, rounding the cutting edge as it might with a more compliant surface. Even with relatively heavy pressure the surface remains unyielding, yet burr formation is still mild compared to grinding on a fixed abrasive. Edges stay crisp and "catchy", even when stropped many times.

The ridges and relief cuts also provide much greater tactile and auditory feedback - one can tell if they are on the bevel, the shoulder, or if they are just beginning to ride the cutting edge (if one isn't at the proper angle it will feel like they're moving the cutting tool over a washboard. The amount of feedback increases as one gets further from the ideal or target angle.). This makes it a much nicer tool than many other choices when one is trying to quickly touch up an edge, or is doing a moderate amount of work restoring a worn edge. This characteristic is extremely useful for maintaining angle control when working with sandpaper or lapping films. End result is greater consistency for beginners and casual users, and greater versatility for more experienced users.

It can be used to polish larger areas and to maintain overall blade geometry during maintenance sharpening, touch up battered edges, do crisp work on V bevel, convex, Scandi etc, all with a minimum of steel loss, burr formation, and fuss. Best of all perhaps, its characteristics only change when you want them to - it is unaffected by loading, glazing, contamination, nicks in the surface.

Due to its light weight and flexibility, one can carry a complete sharpening setup that weighs only ounces yet has the feel and convenience of an 8 or 6" bench stone.

BEST PRACTICES:

It was designed to work with 20# Bond, 50# text, 75GSM copy paper - these are all different designations of the same basic copy paper. Lined writing paper found in most spiral notebooks is very effective as well. Using it with other papers or materials is possible and can yield good results, but care should be taken.

If the paper is of a lighter weight such as newsprint, the possibility of damage will increase. Either riding the outside corner of the Washboard or the teeth wearing through the paper become more likely to harm the edge or the board itself, so extra attention is important. In the interest of obtaining consistent results, avoid using coated (glossy) papers that have been printed on. While good results can be had, most end-user gloss paper might be treated with a wide variety of varnishes that could adversely effect results with no obvious cause.

If the paper is somewhat thicker than spec'd, it can be pre-compressed by wrapping it around the Washboard, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean dry rag or paper towel using pressure. Additional sheets of paper can be used if an even softer surface is desired, such as for Scandi grinds and full convex edges, or for general polishing.


Do not store or use the board with the working surface in direct contact with a stone or other hard surface - if the teeth become damaged or smoothed out, the Washboard will still work, but not as efficiently, and there is no way to repair it.


The Washboard can be used with a wide variety of abrasive compounds, simply make certain the compound is rated for steel or stainless steel, and understand if it is for heavy cleaning or final polishing. Abrasives intended for polishing plastics or precious metals will not work well if at all. Also, the abrasive must not be water-based or the paper will disintegrate with very little use if not allowed to dry.

The Washboard excels when used with wet/dry sandpaper and lapping films, simply secure around the board the appropriate grit paper and it becomes a full-service sharpening system. Remove debris from the sandpaper with a large eraser or crepe rubber. Water can be used with this sandpaper as well if desired. For maintaining edges, paper with compound is all that should be required.

[video=youtube;pfhnuz4C0zk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfhnuz4C0zk&feature=youtu.be[/video]


[video=youtube;G1qGE87OP9s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1qGE87OP9s&feature=youtu.be[/video]

[video=youtube;fjKkuWdLT7M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjKkuWdLT7M&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
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I like the ingenuity behind this. Do these provide any advantage in reprofiling vs the usual sandpaper mousepad/leather backing?
 
I like the ingenuity behind this. Do these provide any advantage in reprofiling vs the usual sandpaper mousepad/leather backing?


It does a great job on full convex and Scandi, might beat up a sheet of sandpaper pretty good to do a full conversion, you could certainly convert a V bevel to a convex. Its way harder than sandpaper over leather - nearly as hard as a soft waterstone - but you can also customize it a bit. After four or five sheets of paper depending on the thickness, the Washboard feel gets pretty muted - still way harder than sandpaper over leather. Three sheets and you'd still have enough feedback to help orient yourself and ease the surface somewhat but its still hard enough that rounding the apex isn't a big concern.

I use no more than two sheets for Scandi and convex, works great and still very hard surface - on convex its hard enough that I have to shift the angle just a tiny bit as I go to hit the entire sweep.

One of the test users said he preferred three sheets and this "softened" the feel enough to get a good cosmetic effect and still no rounding of the apex when working on his Scandi. Winds up being maybe a degree or maybe a degree and a half of deflection across the bevel face on a Scandi. Just enough to toughen the cutting edge up a bit on acute (sub 25 degree inclusive) edges.

All this mention of multiple sheets is in regards to polishing compound on copy/writing paper for finish and maintenance. With sandpaper I wouldn't use any extra padding until I got up into the higher grit stuff - 600+ or so, just use a bit of shift on the paper to hit the entire bevel face. At the lower grit values, the paper + abrasive makes the substrate as thick as you'd care to work with and still get a good effect from the texture, though you could always experiment with a sheet or two.

You could also wrap additional padding around it and only use the Washboard effect for finishing. But, I strongly believe that once a person tries it and realizes what this thing is about, they'll want to make max use of its attributes - improved feedback and very unyielding surface. Between these two factors, the Washboard is very forgiving. You can feel where you are on the board, both pitch and angle relative to the relief cuts, so its pretty easy to keep track of the mechanics of your stroke, and very forgiving of pressure variations.

Thanks for the interest. The videos have a lot of content - despite my mumbling well worth a watch. If you did sit through them, thanks again!

HH
 
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The strength lies in the consistent backing that still provide adequate feedback, while the actual medium can be worn away and replaced anytime. No clean up is needed, simply replace paper with a fresh one. It's almost like DMT for stropping.
:thumbup:
 
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Just did a full run through of the Washboard process (upon request) taking micrographs at every stage to be posted on MT&E. This was done using the exact method from the videos - here is an edited version:

All pics except the last one are at 640x, grind patterns are a bit wavy looking, I believe the camera had a hard time with the backlighting, done to highlight the cutting edge.

First one is off the 320 grit sandpaper, test knife is the younger cousin of the CS Recon from the video, a smaller Voyager - Aus8 flat grind. I did nothing to it coming off the sandpaper except to do the best job I could in terms of burr removal and a wipe on my pant leg. All methods etc are right outta the video.
WB_640_320_zpsd3faadab.jpg


Same edge after stropping on paper - noticeable improvement in cutting. A perfect hard-use edge or for utility cutting but doesn't really look different, maybe a touch more polished.
WB_640_320_Paper_zpsfb4d5cb6.jpg


On to the 600 grit sandpaper. Again, this was straight off the sandpaper - cutting even better than the 320 grit with paper stropping, at least in terms of fine cutting - will now crosscut paper noisily but confidently, still plenty of bite. A real good kitchen utility edge.
wb_640_600_zps0ce3da89.jpg


And after stropping with paper, about 30 passes with moderate pressure. This was a bit impressive. I expected a difference but not to this degree. The scratch pattern has been smoothed across the high points and the cutting edge has a burnished look very similar to a steeling right along the apex. A very nice jump up in cutting ability - now crosscutting paper quietly yet still plenty of 'catch' to the edge.

wb_640_600_Paper_zps05778188.jpg


On to the compound. Was wondering just how much more improvement I'd see with this compound - it is formulated for maintenance, not just a final caress. Another jump up in fine cutting yet still very three finger sticky. Now very close to my comfortable upper limit for EDU. Again, easily crosscutting paper with a whisper and cutting a circle no problem.

WB_640_Compound_zps4cdd6780.jpg


And after stropping with paper, again about 30 passes. Now feeling very sharp, cutting across my finger pads when I do a three finger test. Still feeling a bit of "drag" as it does so, I can make out the surface cuts - they'll be more visible tomorrow. Still some surface variation along the edge - this will last a while and be very sharp as it does so. For myself I'm not sure I'd bother with the paper stropping (and I usually don't) - plenty sharp without that extra step.

WB_640_Compound_Paper_zps8a1b60ca.jpg


And when it feels that sharp I can't stop myself from pulling a hair outta my head...

WB_Whittlin_zpsa9ef4baf.jpg



"CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE!"
with a Washboard :)
 
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And here's the Washboard touching up a 14" Marbles jungle machete:

[video=youtube;Uidso_8KJ38]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uidso_8KJ38[/video]
 
Just covering all the bases(in case of another net snafu): I'll take it! Those three words seem to make up most of my posts, anyway...Doin' my bit to stimulate the economy. As soon as I get your reply, I'll tie up the loose end$.
Thank you, Martin.
 
Thanks to all for the interest, I'll still gladly field questions, general and/or specific. The last piece of the first run has been sold. Will be making another run of five pieces ASAP, and will update the listing. I also will be making some more detail specific videos in the near future. If there is any aspect of the Washboard, concept or mechanics, that folks would like included let me know.

Keep 'em sharp!
Martin
 
I picked one of these up from Martin about a week and a half or two weeks ago. All though I have not had a chance/need to do any re-profiling with the WB,I have stropped a few blades with plain copy paper and a little compound with very good results. Martin does a great job on making these. He also does a fantastic job of assembling the over all package that he sends to his customer. I was very impressed with the instructions that are included,probably the best instructions I have seen ever! You can really tell he developed this product out of the passion he has for making things sharp and he wants his customers to be able to get the most out of it as possible.
 
Hey Martin, do you have any more of your washboard system? If so I,ll take one. Shoot me your PP addy and I will post funds. Thanks
 
The fifth "how to" video, this one showing how pressure relates to use of the Washboard for tailored results. Also a few general tips for convex sharpening on a hard surface.

[video=youtube;SalomUAvMHI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SalomUAvMHI[/video]
 
Just recently got my first Washboard and wrapped it in a piece of notebook paper(out of copy paper), coated it in Martin's stropping paste and proceed to strop everything in the house. Having watched his videos, I was neither gentle nor brutal with it and got very good and quick results. Inspired, but without fresh steel to sharpen(I'd sharpened everything recently and am WAY too anal to intentionally dull them), I hurried to the local antique/junk shop in search of the ubiquitous HC kitchen knife cast-offs. Nothing to be found other than two identical Chinese Piece Of Stainless butcher knives. Bought 'em, took 'em straight to the stone room and went through hell just forcing the blades to stay on the rough side of the SiC stone long enough to cut new bevels. No lateral rigidity whatsoever. No way I'm gonna take these through any kind of progression on the stones. Martin had thoughtfully included one sheet each 320 and 600 grit SiC sandpaper. Okie-dokie. Straight off the 120 grit(at best) SiC stone, 15pps with moderate pressure(floppy steel) on each sheet, 15pps on a single sheet of notebook paper with the included compound, then 15pps on a single sheet of untreated notebook paper. The only significance of 15pps(for the scientifically minded) was that I was tired and/or lazy and didn't want to have to take effing notes. The upshot of all this is: exclusive of the cost of the Washboard, which, in sharpening paraphernalia, is peanuts, I have invested $5, very little energy, only a little more time, and have two newsprint push-cutters that I would not have much luck sharpening conventionally. They make excellent slicers, if I remember not to pry with them.
I raised a small burr on the 120,not so easily honed off, and had to check closely for burrs using the sand paper, stropping compound and plain paper. They were there, but tiny. Given the steel, if you can call it that, I expected serious burrs to occur at each stage of honing. Pleasant surprise. I had no burrs stropping the better steels in the house with compound. It is very enjoyable stropping with a small amount of pressure. The Washboard is very forgiving in that respect. So far, I have not damaged any of the edges I worked so hard to refine-only refined them further.
Thanks, Martin.
 
Wondering if this could be used for a straight razor.. maybe going up in lapping film to 30k or even crazy 160k
 
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