Washing out grind lines

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Aug 13, 2002
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Even with curved sanding implements they still wash out.
Then it occurred to me:

How high, grit wise, do you guys go on the grinder before moving to hand sanding? I mean my 220 grit marks from the grinder are too deep and when I hand sand to get those out it seems almost impossible to keep the grind lines as crisp no matter how careful I am.

Would going with a higher grit before leaving the grinder help? Is this how you guys with insane crisp grind lines do it or is it me?

Thanks

Patrice
 
How are you sanding the flats of the blade. If I do mine by hand it washes out. If I do the hollow with curved backing and sand the flats on my granite it comes out well. I do my final passes on the flats by hand but that is it.
 
Ryan, I use an old flat file to back up the paper. I think the problem with me lies with the curved backing. I have a hard time seeing where I am at and I end up sanding the junction line a little especially when the scratch are deep and I have to apply more pressure or sand longer.

Rusty, I will try that.

Thanks guys.

Patrice
 
One other trick if you haven't already tried it is to use a hollow sander that is smaller than the hollow. Example for a 10" hollow use a 8 or even 6" radius on your curve
 
Patrice, i go up to 800 grit on the grinder, then move to a 800grit worn cork belt loaded with green compound. handrubbing out the lines takes me 2 minutes max, using 400 grit silicone carbide paper.
 
I start sanding by hand at 600 and then go back and forth to the grinder all the way up to 2000. Works for me.
 
Yes Ryan I did try a smaller radius. Sadly that did not work.
I will try as suggested to go to a higher grit on the grinder.

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated.

Patrice
 
Patrice what I mean WHAT i n the world would ya wanna hand sand for if you can do it on the machine. I had trouble a few weeks ago and I dont know what happened . So im getting some greasless compound to do the dirty work 240 and 400 grit. I m serious why would you want to hand sand . I seriously think sanding by hand sucks . I sand to 220 with a grit type belt of one sort or another and then go to structured abrasive norax belts are the best they remove all the scratches. I go 220 320 500 1200 and just bought some 3000 grit and I dont even need to buff with compound but I do
 
hellgap , where did you buy 3000 grit belts? were they 2x72 belts?
vern
 
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How are you sanding the flats of the blade. If I do mine by hand it washes out. If I do the hollow with curved backing and sand the flats on my granite it comes out well. I do my final passes on the flats by hand but that is it.

Query: What do you mean by "...sand the flats on my granite..."? This is a new idea to me. Thanks.
 
I believe he means that he is using a flat piece of granite (cut and finished, like a piece of a countertop) as backing for abrasive paper.
 
Like a lot of guys already said, I take it up to 600 grit and then start sanding with 400 paper. Keeping the flats flat is the key to a good looking blade, I think. But you know what? When a guy gets an absolutely perfect grind, one so good the grind lines can cut you, and the whole blade is gleaming with a lovely machine 600 grit finish, well, I hate to touch sandpaper to it. In that case, I don't think sanding improves the look of the blade. I've never tried to sell a blade like that-like everyone else, I sand-but I wonder how customers would react to a bowie with a blade with perfect machine finish and wonderfully crisp grind lines?

Dave
 
Pat,

A lot of high grit belts are quite thin, and that's always led to problems, at least in my exoerience. The exception are the Trizack (spelling?) belts, the gray tire tread belts. They last forever. The A-30 belts is, I beleive, 600 grit and mine works like a charm. After finishing up on that belt, I go to 400 grit, then 600, etc. Takes very little time. The trizack also cuts very cleanly, leaving you with super nice lines. Hope this helps.

Dave
 
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