Watching Paul's Videos. Ongoing Questions...

[Diomedes Industries]

Paul - I will lob a softball first.

1) You mention your Hyde #2 knife repeatedly - and noted that R Murphy makes a similar blade.

Here is their offerings:

https://www.rmurphyknives.com/store/leather-knives.html

Which one is close to that #2?


2) When gluing welts - you do not rough up the grain side surface. I think I have asked you this before - but can you tell me why again?


3) Your Cobra 14 Splitter - do you need to sharpen the blades often - and do you to it yourself?

4) You don't bevel or edge the inside wedge of the window of any inlay. Does anyone else edge it - or dye it?





Jason

 

[sheathmaker]

The round point 7 inch at either $11.95 or the $14.95 are almost identical to the Hyde #2.......BUT for several months now I've been using the Dave Ferry (Horsewright) custom skiving knife made of AEBL steel and it will be the one I use (or one just like it) from now one.

Regarding gluing the welts, I am neither for or against roughing up the grain side. It sure doesn't hurt, but since the welt is going to be stitched in permanently within just a few minutes and then the edges fished after that it really isn't necessary because it is NOT going to come loose.

I do not sharpen the splitter blade, but I do, from time to time "tune it up" on a rotary buffer with compound (stropping effect) I did change out the blade recently. Cobra has an exchange blade system for a fee. Send them a dull one plus the fee and they send you either a brand new or a newly sharpened blade in exchange. I bought an extra blade when I first got the machine, because I did not want to be down during blade sharpening or exchange. It's a big blade and I do not have the equipment to do an absolutely flat sharpening, which it does require if it is going to perform adequately.

I do not bevel the inside of an inlay window because as you have seen I split the grain side off at about 2/3 OZ , saving the split, install the inlay and cement the whole thing back to original thickness. That window step is very small and flat and square and does not need to be edged.. The final finish (TanKote and Wyosheen) darkens the raw edge to match up pretty well with the rest of the sheath. I do think I remember cases where it was beveled and dyed, (not me) but in those cases it was not split down thin to begin with.

Paul

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Thanks so much Paul!

I am sure I will have more questions as I go. I really appreciate you answering them.

I just ordered one of those RM Knives - if I like it - I will take a serious look at Dave's.

Jason

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I got in the RM knife and after honing it - I can see why you use it!

I have another question. During the pattern making portion of "Basic Pouch Sheaths" you said that you needed a "3/4" minimum margin off the welt to place the belt loop" because of the machine you are using. You also said that if you are hand sewing that can be a little less.

I don't know what you mean - and may have misunderstood what you were saying - if you can remember this portion - can you clarify?

Jason

 

[sheathmaker]

Well, I probably said what you say I said.....but what I was trying to convey was that you need an absolute minimum of 3/4" (even more is better) from the near edge of the belt loop to the edge of the sheath, or better yet from loop to the projected position of the groove line. The groove line will, of course, be on the front go the sheath and you are working on the back so this will be a estimate for you. This is to allow you to get it under the presser foot of your machine without the needle plate catching the edge of the loop and pushing it unexpectedly off the edge while stitching. (I learned this the hard way). Obviously this does not apply for hand stitching.

Edit: Jason I just reread your post and during the Pattern Making the 3/4" minimum margin from the inner edge of the welt to the outer edge of the loop is correct. This allows you the width of the welt (1/2") and the 3/4" which should give you good clearance when sewing on the machine. This way your pattern will automatically take care of this critical point before you even cut leather.

If this (or anything else) still isn't clear for you, be sure to know you are always welcome to call and we can discuss.

Paul

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I figured this out late the night I posted. I just couldn't get what you said because I don't have the machine (YET!).

When I get my Cobra 4 (it is on it's way) soon, I am SURE I will have more questions.

Jason

 

[grogimus]

You ritzy dudes and your
.. machines! [emoji6]

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