Water stones and Nagura stone

Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
386
I found a set of water stones for ~$45. consisting of 800/4000 grit combination stone, 6000 grit stone (King), Nagura stone. I want to try water stones before I invest in high quality stones.
1) Is this a reasonable set for my introduction to water stones?
2) What is the purpose of a Nagura stone?
Any help/advice will be appreciated.
 
nagura stones build (and contribute to) the slurry, rapidly, before beginning sharpening.

A heavy slurry helps to cushion the fine edge from abrading too quickly when finishing an edge on the next grit finer stone, and allows more pressure without potentially scratching the finish with a piece of random grit.

This can be critical if the stone surface is slightly irregular, natural waterstones can have imperfections that must be compensated for.. Using a nagura stones is generally 'less critical' on synthetic stones but still convenient.

As for your sharpening stones, the base matrix on synthetic stones is a matter of taste, and has great variation in feel. some people prefer a particular type of stone, others are less picky, but it is more individual taste than utility.

fwiw, I recommend norton 1000-4000 as the default 'bang-buck' utility stone, and shapton pros if you have spare money. :)

In My Opinion, the most useful grit size is approximately from 800-1200, for reprofiling and setting edge bevels..it cuts fast enough and doesn't scratch too deeply. It saves much time and allows you to 'feel' the cutting process, which is important when first learning.

A polishing stone should be no finer than necessary to remove previous scratches, else you will be forever. The 'middle' stone I find most useful is the blue aoto, a natural stone, or a 4000 grit shapton for stainless (high chrome) steels. Natural stones tend to leave a haze on stainless, and depending on the grain size can even leave a 'muddy' look to the steel. Synthetics are less fun but more useful in many cases. Belgian coticules, blue & champagne, are very fine finishing stones.. (fine & finer).. and compare to the better japanese stones favorably. They are more aggressive than japanese stones, and also save time achieving a mirror polish. They'd compare to about 4000 and 8000 grit shaptons, in speed and finish.. (blue & champagne) ..

once you're working on decent stones you'll understand why excellent ones are desireable. They save time and feel nicer while using them. a very even grain and aggressive grit makes sharpening dynamic, and increases the time you'll WANT to do it.. and may get you to sharpening knives for others just to enjoy the stones.

Be warned that you should probably get the basics and quit while you are behind. Sharpening stones can soak up money worse than custom knives once you're addicted.
 
Really quickly, Japanese chefs who are the heaviest users of waterstones for knife sharpening purposes, usually have 3 grits. They have grinding grit used for forming bevels. It usually has a 100 or 200 grit size. They have a medium stone which is usually between 800 and 2000 grit and they have a finishing stone with a grit of 4000 or more. The combo stone would cover everything but the grinder. The second finishing stone wouldn't provide enough difference over the 4000 to matter much. Normally you want to move from grit to grit by 4 or 5X the grit number. The most popular grit choices among Japanese chefs and cooks are 100, 1000 and 6000.

The purpose of the nagura stone, as mentioned above, is to aid in the formation of the slurry. It is the slurry that both grinds the steel and lubricates the stone.
 
The slurry made by most synthetic nagura stones tends to leave the edge of most steels coarser and more rounded than when sharpening without slurry. It's still great for cleaning and smoothing the surface of your fine-grit waterstone between flattenings, but the synthetic nagura I've used has never made anything "better" and certainly not sharper.
 
Back
Top