WD-40 as a blade coating?

Django606

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Jul 22, 2005
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Is it ok to use WD-40 on my Chinook blade? It makes it shine like no tomorrow, and it should prevent small flecks of rust.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't coat my blade with it?

I squirt some on a rag, then polish the blade. Is that enough, if I should even be using it?


Thanks in advance.
 
Be sure to keep it out of the pivot area because WD40 will start gumming it up.
 
The only real downside to using it is that it will attract dust and dirt. I use to put a very light coating of honing oil on my blades but it also attracted lint. Try using Militec-1 and heating it in, it works really well.
 
In terms of rust prevention, I've had very good experiences with WD-40. Make sure you only put a thin layer on it. Tuf-Cloth is even better, but it's also more expensive - and it won't give you the shiny finish.
 
I prefer G96 over 10W-40 as a cleaner/protectant for metal surfaces. Great stuff. Most gun stores carry it. Use it on my blades and guns.

For pivots, though, Tuf-Glide.
 
Militec isn't worth bothering with from a rust protectant standpoint. I do like the sheen it leaves on the TiN coated blades, but it doesn't have signifigant rust prevention. As opposed to leaving a film of oil on the blade, I recommend picking up a tube of Flitz or Simichrome, and occasionally polishing the blade. A freshly polished blade positively glows after it's been buffed off with a clean rag (I like to remove most of the polish with a cotton rag, followed by a 3m microfiber cloth to get rid of the last of the residue). For your purpose I suppose wd-40 will work fine, but don't cut food with it unless you wipe it down good first, it leaves strong petroleum flavor that really tastes bad when you eat it :barf: Advantages of polishing include removing any microscopic rusting before it can penetrate the surface and cause pitting, and decreasing the likelyhood of rusting by polishing out the pits and roughness in the steel that promotes rust formation. They also leave a very thin waxy film after buffing that helps prevent short term corrosion.

For oils that don't leave a wierd flavor in your food, you can try mineral oil, Ballistol(smells strong out of the container, this goes away after a half hour and leaves no taste or smell) or Camellia oil(commonly available from japanese tool suppliers). My prefered lube/protectant now is FP-10, but if you're just using it to make the blade look pretty and add a small margin of rust protection other stuff works just as well.
 
So these wouldn't be toxic? I would be more worried about them being toxic then having a bad flavor in my food.


I already applied some WD-40. If I wanted to cut food, what would you guys reccommend doing? Just washing the blade with soap and water?
 
I'd just wipe it off on my pants or a paper towel, that aughta get enough off the blade that it shouldn't bother you much. The mineral oil, Camellia oil, and Ballistol are non-toxic and perfectly safe for use on food-prep stuff. The caveat with ballistol is that it does have a strong taste and odor when used, this goes away after a half hour. I happen to use the camellia oil most as Murray Carter recommended it for his knives, and ballistol on the garden tools. For my daily carry folders though I usually just polish and buff, no protectant. I've not found rusting a serious problem despite living near saltwater and occasionally leaving dried shrimp guts on my folders (usually a G-2 endura or ATS-34 Benchmade 710) for hours before I could clean them properly. Pocket sweat and humidity has induced very light spot rusting on my 710 and around the hole on my endura when they were new, but after polishing a few times that's never happened again.

The worst rust I've seen was actually in the last place I expected it to be. After doing a stupid thing and having to take my 710 apart to fix it, there was some moderate rusting on the stainless liners where they contacted the scales. I polished that out before putting it back together and coated them with some FP10, hopefully that'll keep it from happening again.
 
leatherbird said:
WD-40,Water Displacement. :)

I will second that. WD 40 is great for water displacement and as a short term lube, not as a rust preventative. I can't tell you how many people have tried to use it on firearms and been very disappointed in the outcome a few weeks later.
Get a Tough Cloth and a bottle of Tuff Glide.
 
What does that do? Will it prevent rust? Plus it is non-toxic..hmm..

Please explain further :p
 
The best that I have found is Tuf-Cloth and Tuf-Glide also the best wax is by far Renaissance, it is not cheap but it is the best
 
I found out the hard way that WD40 is not for rust prevention. The water displacing lubricant evaporates fairly rapidly, and what's left on your blade is the propellent(which is corrosive).
 
blgoode said:
dont laugh.....try spray P.A.M. :)



P.A.M. is a greasy oil spray for frying pans to keep food from sticking to the pan while cooking. It is in essence a spray cooking oil. Down here by the Chesapeake Bay and the Potomac river it is a well known trick to keep your boat and marine equipment from rusting over the winter to use P.A.M. on the metal surfaces. Cleats, line guides, mast stays ect...

But why use anything?

A well taken care of knife will not rust. What do you thing our grandfathers did with all those carbon steel stockman and barlows they carried? Even a carbon steel knife used out on the water won't rust if you just wipe it down once a day. Some of my family are Watermen in the Kent Narrows area and some of them are oldfashioned and use carbon steel. Sure they get a nice patina after a while, but a patina will protect a blade.

It's a little funny to me how some of these young guys think thier shiny stainless steel knife is going to rust away on them overnight. :D :D
 
Django606 said:
Is it ok to use WD-40 on my Chinook blade? It makes it shine like no tomorrow, and it should prevent small flecks of rust.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't coat my blade with it?

I squirt some on a rag, then polish the blade. Is that enough, if I should even be using it?


Thanks in advance.

CRC might be a bit sticky for some but it clings better than most products.Knife flat surfaces might pick up a bit of dust but it's obvious that it hasn't evaporated like most chemicals. Firearms have so many places to lube & protect that it clings,not puddling. I spray & wipe down & am well satisfied. Some of my pistols are over 100 years old & still look good. I sold CRC for about 20 years & wouldn't offer a product that was not good unless the buyer was a Cheap Charlie .

Uncle Alan
 
;) Jackknife - we have similar views in steel care my friend :) I'd take a patina'd carbon over shiney stainless anyday :) :thumbup:
Rust is one thing but I do think most guys who see staining or tarnish of somesort are worring that there blade isnt any good. Go into the tool shead and take a look at that shovel that you stick into the ground.....its steel and it aint stainless :D The best thing for an aging knife is to use it and know that it will get aging blemishes just like we do
 
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