WD-40 as a blade coating?

blgoode said:
;) Jackknife - we have similar views in steel care my friend :) I'd take a patina'd carbon over shiney stainless anyday :) :thumbup:
Rust is one thing but I do think most guys who see staining or tarnish of somesort are worring that there blade isnt any good. Go into the tool shead and take a look at that shovel that you stick into the ground.....its steel and it aint stainless :D The best thing for an aging knife is to use it and know that it will get aging blemishes just like we do
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Yeah, I think we see it alike!

I am always a bit mystified, what is it they are looking for?

I have a hunch that there is a whole generation of young guys who think that things always have to be new looking and shiny, like a car just out of the showroom. I love your analogy of the tools in the shed- yes they ain't stainless but they are still there! I think it's just a symtom of this plastic age we live in.

Life ages everything, and thats okay. I've got a fair amount of barnacles on me by now, and so does my knives and guns, but everything is still working. Just think blgoode, our grandfolks butchered meat and cut everything with knives that had blades patined almost black, and they were just fine!
 
That patina is also a protectant just like rust on the understructure of a bridge :)
I hope one day MY patina looks as nice to my wife as my knives do to me :) :thumbup:
 
Patina on carbon steel is fine and dandy, but where I live rust is a concern. I've had a cold steel recon tanto that I leave in my toolbox rust at the edge severely within a week because I didn't bother to put any rust protectant on it after sharpening. No need to go overboard, and if the knife is being constantly used it's not really an issue. With stainless though I like them to be shiny, that's the whole point really. Stainless doesn't patina, it just forms patchy blobs of nasty looking rust, so I polish as a preventive measure.
 
Rust from storing is a whole different beast. I had my favorite steel spyderco delica rust from being in my car door sidepocket. Guess some rain got in once and well..........I was upset ;)
Might be nice to do some mild testing on my own just so I learn better about long term rust prevention on my own knives.
Good thread!
 
My biggest problem with WD40 is the smell. I just can't stand that smell!!! :barf:

I used to use 3-in-1 oil, but have recently switched to Militec. I've heard many recommend heating the blade for the greatest Militec benefit, but I fear damaging the handles.
 
If you like the shine of wd-40 you should slosh your knife in diesel fuel? Not only will it shine it will have multiple colors.

Seriously, I don't think you will hurt anything. WD-40 is a very lightweight lube.

I like Break-Free CLP better than WD-40. "CLP" is a military spec lube that C-leans, L-ubricates, and P-rotects. You can get it in any gun store and in most sporting good departments. It seems to me that it is the military version of Rem-oil, only cheaper.

Just remember with lubricants that a little bit is better than a bunch. Wipe off all excess so you don't start collecting goo! If it gets gunked then wash it in very hot water with dishwashing detergent (or run it through the dishwasher). Something about detergent that really breaks down oils and greases.

Sometimes we err in thinking that if a little is good then a lot is better.
 
I also recommend Tufglide and the Tuffcloth. Use a stainless steel kitchen knife to cut your food and don't put oil on them, just keep them clean and dry. I know a lot of people here like to use their EDC for food prep. I kinda find that silly as I use mine for utility work and cutting open who knows what, so the last thing I want to do is expose my food to whatever my knife as been cutting. That's why I keep a nice block of clean kitchen knives at the ready. Maybe I'm just a germaphobe. :)
 
Mineral oil, mineral oil! It's cheap and you can use it on almost anything, from knives to cutting boards. Everything else seems to be based on this stuff, when it is basically a tool to sell you things at raised prices. The "butcher block" stuff we sold where I used to work is only mineral oil with beeswax added to it. You can get mineral oil at CVS, or probably any pharmacy.

Mineral oil, unlike olive oil or vegetable oil, will not go rancid and will keep things, metal and wood BOTH, in working order without much stress or upkeep. Honing oil, I think, is also basically miineral oil, maybe mixed with water...?

~ashes
 
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