WD-40 on Fixed blades OK?

M

Mike990

Joined
Sep 25, 2000
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535
Is there a down side to using WD-40 oil on fixed blade knives. Chris Reeve recommends it for his project 1. Will it stain? What advantage does something like gun oil have over WD-40. On folders I know its a bad idea as it might gum things up.
 
You want a light oil on your knives so things don't get gummy. WD-40 will evaporate too quickly from your knife. It is best, if you are oiling your carbon steel knives, to get something that is light but won't evaporate. Personally, when I oil my carbon steel knives I give them mineral oil. The Japanese have been using that stuff for a loooong time ;) And it is a foodsafe oil.
 
I use it on mine . Also, Mike Snody told me to use it on my carbon damascus Kwaiken he made for me . I have not had any stain problems .

Hope this helps .

Jerry
 
Unless I am mistaken, WD-40 is Stoppards solvant and not an oil. It is designed to suspend water and evaporate after a length of time.

IMHO it is the most missold product around.

I would use an oil like Militech-1 or better still Marine Sentry Tuf Cloth and Tuf Glide.

Hope it helps.
 
Just to add to what I posted, it isn't that WD-40 won't work, it is just that there are products designed exactly to protect steel from the elements. What I mean to say is, WD-40 works but other things will work better, as has been my experience.
 
Ballistol is about the best I've found. As a side benefit it also neutralizes the acids in leather that can cause corrosion on carbon steel blades. I use it on all of my sheaths now. It's also great as a lubricant for precision folder pivots. Great stuff!
 
Ballistol sure stinks but it works.I heard it was developed for Nazi submarines to put in their torpedo tubes to eliminate corrosion.I've had a can for approx. 3-4 years as I've used it sparingly , but a friend of mine goes thru a can a month.He swears by it and I really can't come up with a dispute.tom.
 
About a year or so ago, someone, I don't remember who, took a piece of carbon steel, treated sections of it with the most commonly touted potions and snake oils, and then left it out in the weather for months. WD-40 beat 'em all including Tuff-Cloth.

IMHO it is the most missold product around.
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Hey, WD-40 is one of my favorite products. I always keep a can around. Nothing does more tasks a poorly as WD-40. It's the one spray to have when you're having only one spray. I keep a can in the car. Several years ago, I went out on an over-night "camping" trip with some friends. We arrived and, of course, nobody brought any matches or lighter fluid (this is coastal Oregon, so just rooting around the woods to find dry tender isn't a option. You're literally in a rain forest here, folks.) We had one half-used book of matches, the owner of which wanted to keep the vast majority of for smoking. After pondering the problem for some time, I came across the answer. I sprayed the charcoal with WD-40. One match and we had a fine fire started. Try that with Break Free. Yes, WD-40, it's a salad dressing, a foot oil, a hair tonic, a floor cleaner, it's the one can to have when you're having only one can.

It's also perfectly safe on steel, won't stain at all. But, it may stain some handle materials, unfinished wood, etc. So, be careful about that.
 
I live and work in the humid, salt air environment of coastal South Texas. I tried to keep the polished edge (rest of blade is coated) of an ATS-34 Lainhart machete free of rust with WD-40 for several months, with limited success. If I didn't repeat the treatment every week or ten days, and religiously after every use, rust spots would begin to appear. I quit WD-40 in favor of BreakFree CLP and have not had a rust spot since, even when the blade is left in a leather sheath for weeks at a time, and even when I don't have a chance to clean it off after one or two whacks at something. No contest: CLP is MUCH better than WD-40 for rust prevention. I don't know about snake oil potions--they'd probably be better on a salad.

-w
 
WD-40 makes bug carcasses, grease, and tar come off of your car with little or no effort:cool:
Oh, are we supposed to be talking knives?
I use it for cleaning, but not as a lubricant or protectant.
 
WD-40 means "water displacement, formula #40". On the the 40th try they got it RIGHT! No, WD-40 is not a long term solution but it is FINE to wipe on your blades for SHORT TERM protection. Hell, shoot it all through your knives, (NOT recommended if they have natural materials such as stag, pearl, exotic wood, etc.). This stuff gets more undeserving grief than it deserves but it IS a great SHORT TERM solution to all your viable needs. It WILL collect dust but it WON'T hurt your knife. I'm sure all the "experts" will now come on board and tell me I'm wrong but trust me, it WILL NOT hurt your knife!
 
Break-Free CLP, besides being a highly effective product for all types of weapons, will not harm finishes, natural materials, or plastics. It is a very safe and cost effective product to use.

I've tested most products currently available, and Break-Free CLP has yet to be surpassed.
 
I use Break Free CLP, too. It's a good all-around cleaner and rust protectant. It lubricates well, too; I've used it to lubricate everything from sqeaky closet door hinges to [door] lock mechanisms.
 
I agree with Will about the humid, salt air enviroment of south Texas. I am a little farther north than he is but on the coast and I have had good luck with Break Free and another product called Tri Flo. I have used both for several years on knives and firearms with good results. For semi auto firearms I prefer the Tri Flo.
 
Do not use WD40 on your expensive customs. Until it evaporates, it is fine. Once it evaporates, it leaves the residue of the propellants, which are corrosive. I found out the hard way. Now, I use some kind of oil that I can wipe on.
 
The propellant is propane which evaporates virtually instantly leaving no "residue" itself.
 
I guess I'm just an old fart but , I've used WD40 on my guns and knives since Moses was a pup without a problem . I certainly own more carbon steel blades than stainless and have no problems . There are more sophisticated solutions but the problem I see , IMHO is people want an easy way out , prevenative maint. is just all part of owning a tool of which a knife is . WD40 is certainly not a corrosive ! I carry either a Wally Hayes or Snody carbon damascus knife everyday both have logged more miles than most customs will ever see , not one spec of rust or stain ( my hayes does have a slight blood stain on the handle---OOPPPs ) I just see this debate akin to the 9mm vs 45acp in the hand gun world . Sorry for the rant , people just all have there own likes and dislikes use what works for you or what you have seen actually work for others . Just remember there is no oil or substitute for general maint. Later-----


Regards,
Jerry
 
Nothing wrong with using WD-40, it's just no where near the best product to use.

WD-40, if continually applied and left to dry, will form a gummy yellow varnish on metal parts. The company even admits this.

I work in the maintenance industry, and several companies from Caterpiller to Master recommend against using WD-40. Your warranty can be voided for using crappy maintenance products.

Walt2, Tri-Flow is a pretty good product, although too expensive and now a bit hard to find. The security crew at NASA KSC used to use it on all their weapons and equipment.

The cost of "upgrading" to Break-Free CLP is minimal.$6.15 for a twelve ounce can that will last you for years.

For satin finished or highly polished blades, Flitz and MAAS both make a polishing paste that shines, prevents corrosion, and leaves a dry surface.

www.flitz.com
www.maaspolish.com
 
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