We have lift-off!

[softarch66]

I'm underway on the knife I mentioned in my getting started thread. I got started a couple weeks ago and taking pictures, but just now getting around to posting this WIP thread. I want to make sure it's clear - this is NOT a how-to thread for anyone to copy my methods; its a how-the-newbie-did-it thread for the more experienced to advise, correct, or (when appropriate) mock. It might help other newbies someday.

I decided to use 3/32 1095 steel and to cut out 2 blanks to reduce the pressure if I mess up on the first one - I can just switch to the second.

So I started by printing 2 copies of my design and sticking it to the stock with spray adhesive. I scribed around it to create a permanent mark, but also used a sharpie to create a semi-permanent mark that was more visible.

As you can see in the photo, I got out my jigsaw (and safety glasses). I finished my first cut when I realized that I didn't want to cut out the radius for the finger guard, so I got out my drill gauge and found that 1/2" was the drill bit needed.

So then, of course, I got out the drill and bit and drilled the holes (after center punching).

Here's an in-progress picture of the first blank after it was cut free from the stock. You can't see it in the picture, but there's a bit of duct tape on the c-clamp jaws to avoid damaging my steel

So I just proceeded with cutting out both blanks, and that was it for day 1 - work time about 2 hours.

 

[softarch66]

So the next day I drilled holes and then used some bolts and wing nuts I had lying around to hold the 2 blanks together and clamp them in the vise to shape them with a file. the jaws of the vise are padded with duct tape. Of course at this point if I make a mistake it will be on both of the blanks, but it's fairly low risk.

that was all I got accomplished that day - here are the 2 blanks at the end of that process. I dinged the blade as you can see in the picture when I dropped it - and to prove I'm a klutz, I dropped the other one and dented the butt.

So ends the second day.

 

[softarch66]

So then I set 1 of the blanks aside and worked on the other one. I screwed it down to a piece of scrap wood and started working with emery cloth to polish out the dent from dropping it, working my way from coarse to fine emery cloth, then 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I always used the sanding block to keep things flat.

Somewhere in that process, I decided to take some weight off the handle by drilling out some holes. On one of them the bit wandered (even though I had center punched), so they aren't symmetrical. It will be hidden under the scales and I won't care, but in the moment I was disappointed with myself for letting that happen.

Then I started figgerin' out how I was going to file the scandi bevel. Hmmm....

I started by cutting a wooden jig with the same profile as the blade (which was NOT what I should have done - but more on that later).

Then I printed a 12.5 degree angle from my computer (using Omnigraffle on my Mac in case anyone wants to know how I did that. First I created a horizontal line, then I created another one and modified the properties of the line to rotate exactly 12.5 degrees). I glued that to cardboard and then cut it out to make a guide. I clamped down the blade and then used the guide to figure out exactly where to position my jig to get that angle with my file.

So then I clamped things down and started filing - using the smooth handle of the file on the jig. Not the easiest method of filing, but it works.

I know this is getting very heavy with photos - I hope that's okay - I'm just trying to be as detailed as I can.

What I then realized - which is really basic geometry once I thought about it - is that curving my jig to exactly match my blade was a mistake. The basic principle is that if you have arcs on a big circle and a small circle with the same degrees of angle, they won't have the same length. Since my jig is near the center of the imaginary circle, it needs a much shorter curve than the actual blade. Since the curve of the blade is not a single radius, I quickly realized it is beyond me to try to make a perfect jig. So I measured the distance from the straight part of the blade to the jig and then from points along the curve and found that I was in very good shape if I just used a square end of the jig, knocked the corner off at 45 degrees, and rounded it a little. It seems to be working real well.

So that's as far as I've gotten to this point - I flipped the blade over to work on the other side a bit. I probably won't get much farther until the weekend comes. I'm just making it up as I go (of course using what I've learned from reading the stickies and posts here) - so please comment on what I could be doing better/different.

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

Looking good. I really like your problem solving and the profile is nice. It's also funny that you care about the mal-aligned weight reduction hole that won't be seen - I bet many here can relate to that. As far as weight reduction, the 6 holes you drilled are good for epoxy adhesion, but won't make any noticeable difference in the weight of the handle. You need to remove way more material to make it worthwhile in my opinion. Keep it up!

 

[cbr900son]

Looks good so far. I like when people take the time to make it as nice as they can. Sometimes you see people rush and come out with a pretty rough knife.

 

[softarch66]

Looking good. I really like your problem solving and the profile is nice. It's also funny that you care about the mal-aligned weight reduction hole that won't be seen - I bet many here can relate to that. As far as weight reduction, the 6 holes you drilled are good for epoxy adhesion, but won't make any noticeable difference in the weight of the handle. You need to remove way more material to make it worthwhile in my opinion. Keep it up!

I was thinking of drilling more/bigger holes for weight, but got concerned about taking too much off and weakening the handle. Basically, i held some wood roughly representing scales in my hand with the knife, and it was a little more handle heavy than I wanted. I couldn't tell much difference after drilling the holes (like you said) - but was nervous about taking off more. How much can I get away with taking off? Where should I take it from? Ideas welcome.

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

I would say that behind the front pin, you can go crazy, leaving at least 1/8" around the outer edge, unless you are making a pry bar.

 

[lonepine]

It's looking really good. How did the reciprocating saw work for cutting the profile? How close were you able to get?

- Paul Meske

 

[softarch66]

It's looking really good. How did the reciprocating saw work for cutting the profile? How close were you able to get?

- Paul Meske

It worked great as long as I was patient. I had to keep reminding myself to let the saw do its job. It's not like cutting wood where you can push the saw through - you have to take it nice ans slow on the steel. I destroyed 1 blade by forcing it - the teeth were completely gone. But otherwise it cut great - pretty much right on the line. Next time I'll drill a few more holes along any curve or angle so I have room to maneuver the blade rather than having to try to work around corners.