Weak springs on the 301

This might be an opportunity for a dealer to have a special run produced by Buck in a certain quanity for us. Similar to the 110s in different steel, Pig sticker, Marksman etc.

Maybe, but I'd be surprised. I doubt Buck has any tooling to make the older 2 spring design left, I think maybe they made some in the mid 80's in the Buck factory before switching to the 3 spring design, but otherwise those were all made by Schrade and Camillus for Buck.
 
Excuse the dumb question, but, to make a stiffer spring, is it an issue of the metallurgy used in the manufacturing of said spring, or is it something as simple as the way the spring is bent and shaped?
 
no dumb question, sir. i believe the temper of the spring is a bit soft, if it were tempered a bit harder or a shotpeen process that should stiffen them up a bit, also i might add the distance from the center spring is longer on my 301 than my 303 which doesn't have a weak spring. could be wrong though.
troy
 
I was glad to find this thread as a result of searching for any info on the Buck 301's weak springs. I just bought a 301 through a large online retailer and was extremely disappointed in how little snap the spring has. While a soft pull doesn't bother me, I feel it's downright unsafe. As previously noted by a poster, just a little misdirected pressure and that rascal is going to close on your fingers.

I was going to email Buck and send it in for repairs or replacement, but that doesn't look like an option if they don't feel it's a manufacturing defect.

I have a 310 3-spring whittler with the same issue, but in a small knife, it just isn't as bothersome. The large stockman is a bit scarier.

I also have a 303 that belonged to my brother-in-law, who is now passed, that I believe to be around 30-40 years old. That 2 spring model has perfect pull and retention.
 
Ratbert, get a 302 Solitaire. It is about perfect.

The 302 is a good looking knife and may have to be my next Buck. The main clip blade is what I use 90% of the time anyway, although I sometimes like a small coping blade for scoring.
 
Weak spring issue and other knife diseases.

For those who feel that a Buck knife has weak springs this is my opinion, only, on what steps you should take.

1. First, decide what the problem is. I am not being silly here, be able to state in your mind what is wrong. Check out knives, like the one with problems, to get a feeling on 'how' weak the spring is. Be able to state if you feel it is not meeting standards of Buck knives of that design and era. Be able to state you have compared it to other knives. Maybe actually make some notes, to be used next, about the knife in hand and the knives you have compared it to.

2. Then decide how much effort and time you are willing to put into this. If its a modern made Buck, maybe you would be better off spending your time and dollars going to a store you can buy a new one by sorting thru the stock on hand. As an example I went thru 20 small grey diamondwood Vantages to find the best looking scale. The counter lady at that store in southern MO was very patient. If you have a classic knife or a heirloom knife and want to try an fix it and are willing to make some effort then go to step 3.

3. Pull up the Buck website, then go to the Warranty and Repair section. Read carefully. Write down the 800 number. Also write down the email address. I myself would call the 800 number and discuss the why's you want something fixed on your knife. Be ready to use your notes on No.1 to explain. Be sure to include in conversation if this knife is "special". Also be ready to hear there is nothing they can do for you.
4. Then make another contact by writing a letter or sending a email to the said department at Buck. So, that someone has to consider your request, efforts of investigation and then think about a reply to you. At this time you can request the email address of Customer service head Joe Houser who is very experienced at considering how to help customers. You can then email him. Be sure to include in any written material, and the telephone, you are a Buck Blade Forum member and if a BCCI member mention that with you member number. This last step will take time for a reply because Joe gets lots of emails.

If you end up sending in your knife, use a postal service box or a padded envelope, wrap in bubble wrap, not foam beads.
Wadded up newspaper if you have too. Don't leave knife where a tear in shipped container will let it "escape", make it shake proof. Address the package *****exactly as the website states****. Using a address that ends in KNIVES is a bad mistake. Buck does not generally send you a postage paid label, discussion for costs should also occur during contacts.
Good luck.

Always - always before declaring a misdeed for a new knife or even an old one, clean it very, very carefully. Run under hot water with lots of dish soap, dry with hair dryer and then heavily spray with some type of lube that is also listed as a cleaner CLP or WD40 come to mind. Use a brush and get down in the crack and wash it out, dig around with a tooth pic. I have bought used knives with wad of denim lint that would choke a goat in the blade well. Then heavily lube the joint and sit an work it a spell. You would be surprised how often this has fixed a problem new knife and given an old knife some extra zing.
I have considered buying a small ultra-sonic cleaner several times but the ole hot water route has worked well so far.

The Last Resort - IF you have a heritage knife and are willing to spend the "bucks", you could buy a used knife somewhere ,of the same model and have a knife craftsman swap springs. There are a couple of experienced guys that are familiar with Buck folders that can do it, if you are willing to pay. With this effort very small effects may be noticed around the pins they have to grind out. If it comes to that contact me or one of the guys that talk about folders a lot for a list of folks. Use PM or email.

You can't be casual about this stuff, the better you deal with the contact and stating the facts, the better you ship your knife the better it will be in the end. Again never use Knife , Gun or Ammo in a address label. 'They' are always watching.

300Bucks, civilian moderator
 
Last edited:
300 Bucks, thank you for the information...excellent points. I am going to start by visiting a locaL store and "test" some of their stock to see if it replicates the issue. It may well be that my knife's springs are the standard that are being produced now (11/2015 according to the box).
 
I would be curious to see Mr. Houser weigh in on this thread. I know he, and perhaps some other Buck employees, stop by the forum from time to time.

It just seems to me, they have to be aware that most people feel their springs are just too soft a pull. I'd like to hear their reasoning for this. Ease of opening is one thing, but just to a point. I can't see where it'd cost any extra to bring them up to "normal" as compared to similar knives from other makers. Don't need to be bear traps. Just like the old Buck's are is all.
 
I would be curious to see Mr. Houser weigh in on this thread. I know he, and perhaps some other Buck employees, stop by the forum from time to time.

It just seems to me, they have to be aware that most people feel their springs are just too soft a pull. I'd like to hear their reasoning for this. Ease of opening is one thing, but just to a point. I can't see where it'd cost any extra to bring them up to "normal" as compared to similar knives from other makers. Don't need to be bear traps. Just like the old Buck's are is all.


Exactly. I would carry my 301 every single day if it wasn't for the weak springs. I've said earlier in this thread that it feels like a safety issue just because they are TOO weak. It's a working knife. If I wanted a casual use stockman, I'd carry one of my Case stockmans which are much nicer looking. Oh well, they're so close to being a home run...
 
Exactly. I would carry my 301 every single day if it wasn't for the weak springs. I've said earlier in this thread that it feels like a safety issue just because they are TOO weak. It's a working knife. If I wanted a casual use stockman, I'd carry one of my Case stockmans which are much nicer looking. Oh well, they're so close to being a home run...

My thoughts too. Likely the biggest reason I do not carry a newer, three spring, 300 series much. Not since I've found the older 701 & 703 models that too me, are about perfect right as they are. As I mentioned before, the late 80's, early 90's models can be found on the auction site either new or very near it, quite reasonably. And I like that they have the wharnie on the opposite end as the main, so euther blade is opened with the right hand. I know that sounds odd, but I like that better than opening the wharnie with my left hand. Kind of a muscle memory thing. And I don't use the spey all that often. That's just me. :)
 
My thoughts too. Likely the biggest reason I do not carry a newer, three spring, 300 series much. Not since I've found the older 701 & 703 models that too me, are about perfect right as they are. As I mentioned before, the late 80's, early 90's models can be found on the auction site either new or very near it, quite reasonably. And I like that they have the wharnie on the opposite end as the main, so euther blade is opened with the right hand. I know that sounds odd, but I like that better than opening the wharnie with my left hand. Kind of a muscle memory thing. And I don't use the spey all that often. That's just me. :)

I agree that the springs on the 700 series are just right. I have 703's with two springs and a 703 with three springs and the number of springs doesn't seem to make a difference in pull strength or the snap. Buck really did a great job on these. I tend to favor the two spring versions because those have the wharnie at the same end as the main. I guess I've gotten used to other "Stockman" patterns which have the wharnie and the main at the same end. It's muscle memory for me too because I've gotten so accustomed to those.

I've never been able to determine why Buck switched the wharnie and spey blades around when they transitioned to three springs. The reason is probably right under my nose but I can't seem to put my finger on it. Perhaps it's the right hand thing that you mentioned.
 
What are everyone's thoughts on the 371? I try to avoid the Chinese models, but I would like a replacement for the 301. I have a canoe from China, which I like but don't carry, and the fit and finish isn't bad. My wife also got me a Cabela's tin with a mini trapper and some other little guy in there, and they are really well constructed. I just have a hard time with knives made overseas, especially Bucks.....
 
Back
Top