Welder for tacking damascus stacks

[javand]

Man, I just want the handle to stay stuck!!!!!

I can tell you how to make this pretty foolproof, but, it's not going to happen with a 110V mig or a buzzbox.

I've always hated handles falling off, and once I started having to weld a large "nub" on the end for rolling mill work, it became more dangerous when it happens.

If you're using solid bar for a handle, you need to chamfer the end heavily before you weld, I recommend 5/8-3/4" bar personally. I use 2" long pieces of this for holding with round tongs for rolling mill. Your tack welds you run reasonably low power and penetration so they're not too deep on the billet, but for the handle, you want to be running pretty high. A small 220 welder, I'd be running at least for the 1/4" plate single pass setting, or higher, with lots of wire.

Chamfer the piece enough that your first pass of heavy weld replaces basically the chamfer material, but doesn't add much circumference to the handle bar, then do another full pass, moving the pool up and down between the handle above the first weld, and the billet past the first weld. The handle wont fall off at this point, even when you roll or forge it flat.


If you're using tubing for the handle, get thicker wall tubing, and do the same just don't chamfer as heavy, and run the second bead heavier (you need it thick enough that you can run a heavy bead without burning through the tubing wall, because that's where it usually falls apart), or use a piece of square bar, the same size as the tubing, for the first 4-6", welded to the billet as above, then weld the tubing to it. This is the best option if you like to have vent holes in the tubing.

Personally, I've just come to prefer using the nubs, with large round bit tongs. You can keep the tongs out of the fire and quench between heats. Once you get used to it, it's not any more cumbersome than the handle, but gives you more flexibility, plus, one bar of 3/4" round will last you a very long time.

To be clear, this is using a 220V welder with shielding gas. Flux core is convenient for outside work, but is far inferior for this kind of stuff.

 

[Surgo]

People rag on 110 too much. I have access to 220 myself but if I only had 110 I wouldn't be too sad. I used a Lincoln inverter 110 mig in my welding class, and it was surprisingly capable.

Man, I just want the handle to stay stuck!!!!!

Cut a groove.

 

[jdm61]

Yeah, that one mistake that I made. Getting a flux core even though they make a 110V gas rig.

Flux core is convenient for outside work, but is far inferior for this kind of stuff.

 

[WC53]

The hobart 187/190 are really good basic machines. I have a cheap inverter tig also, but usually grab the mig as it is easy. Also use an old readywelder from my jeep days. Amazing what size bead two 35ahr batteries can lay down. Always use shieldng gas if you can, if not some 6011 rod will take care of that old paint and rust ...lol

 

[skillgannon]

Just a point for those looking is that Hobart is not really a welding brand anymore. They use to be a big deal and make good welders but it has been sold. Miller bought some I think ESAB bought a lot of the electrodes and the HeliArc label. If you buy a new Hobart its just a classic name on a generic welder. I'm not saying that's a bad thing it could be a great welder for the money. Black And Decker had the same thing happen and I have heard there can be some deals out there from time to time when you get a good brand rebranding.

For the last few years I think ESAB has been putting out a great product. They have some of the best features on light duty units. For TIG welding I have used some of the newer products and they welded better than a Miller at double the price. The nice thing with ESAB is they do a lot of rebranding work and you might be able to find the welder you want with a different coat of paint and a lower price. They make some nice multi process units stick, TIG and Mig with auto 120/220 switching capabilities that come in under $1000. If you are looking for something better the Rebel line looks Awesome and us what I would buy for myself. For what you want to do I would look at getting a unit that can run .030 to .035 gas shielded flux core wire. You will notice a big difference in the toughness of your weld using that. ESAB makes the best app for setting you voltage parameters and you can cross reference it in order to have enough power to run your wire right.

 

[javand]

Miller owns Hobart. They're manufactured by the same company, in the same factories as the Millers. They're not some generic import, or anything of the sort. They bought them, and turned Hobart into their "budget" brand.

They aren't as heavily built as the industrial Millers, but they're comparable or better than the big box store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) Lincolns. Lincoln just makes a some low end models for those stores, and some "crap" versions of certain models they sell at welding stores in the middle size class. They make them similarly to how the Hobarts are made, if compared to the Miller models, but I personally prefer Miller's approach to keeping them isolated across brands, it leads to much less confusion.

ESAB was bought by Colfax Corp in 2012, but is still the umbrella company for Victor, Thermal Dynamics, Tweco, and a whole bunch of other big brands you probably weren't aware of them owning. I own two Esab welders and I like them very much, a Migmaster 250, and a Heliarc 252, they're good industrial units, the old Heliarc is one of the best old big transformer tig machines out there, but they have limits when doing small thin stuff.

I like the Migmaster just fine, it's a great spray transfer machine for doing big welds, but I have to admit, the Miller and Lincoln 25x models, have a sweeter arc and are just easier to fine tune (or rather, don't require as much fine tuning).



I need a larger Mig welder, but as I said, I regret selling my Hobart Handler 187 for shit on the other side of the shop, or outside, and honestly, for the OP's tasks, and general fab, it produced every bit as good of welds up to it's capacity, and was just simpler. A miller 211 or something would be optimal I think for the OP, but it's typically a fair bit more money (although it is heavier built, less plastic parts, etc.), although as mentioned by someone else, if you can one during the end of the year specials, usually, it's really competitive, especially if they offer a big package deal with accessories.

I mean personally, I'd never buy a "brand new" welder anyway. Any good unit will outlast many owners, and especially the Millers (and Hobarts), are extremely well supported, and service work is cheap. Any local welding store can take care of you.