Welding on a tang

Burchtree

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I'm getting a 5-inch piece of damascus, thanks to Ealy Knives and their damascus giveaway contest.

My question is, can you weld on a piece of 1095 to create a hidden tang (the damascus is wrapped with 1095).

Is this feasible, or should I just make a neck knife out of the piece of steel?
 
When ever I make a dagger, and I think I have done it on a bowie knife, I just forge in a stub tang and then forge weld on a piece of 1/4 round steel to give me enough to go thru the handle and screw on the pommel.

If you are doing a hidden tang, I dont think you will have any problem with jump welding on a tang, I dont even think you would need to use 1095. If you were going to do a full tang, I would think you would be able to see the weld joint after etch.

Edited to add:

You can see the weld on the tang in this pic. I had a buddy mig this one on for me.

dagger2e.jpg
 
Thanks, I definitely not going to do a full tang on this one. Hopefully this works out -- this is my first damascus piece.
 
Yes, it can be done. It needs to be a very high quality weld, properly stress relieved, etc. Done well it is acceptable, done poorly though it will be a weak point and apt to early failure. a welding shop that does high grade, machine tool work, not a farm repair type shop, would be able to do it easily.
 
I just got this on KnifeList.
Lynn

>From some previous writings.

A silver brazed joint, when properly done is usually stronger than the two
materials being joined. See page 63 "The Wonder of Knifemaking" and BLADE
magazine Q&A March and April 2001.
The theoretical strength of soldering and brazing alloys depend on the
specific alloy content. Generally speaking the higher the strength the
higher the temperature is that it takes to make a joint. Common lead/tin
solder has a strength of not more than 6,000 psi. Lead free silver solder
has a strength of approximately 15,000 psi. Silver brazing alloys have a
strength of from 50,000 to 60,000 psi. Some brazing alloys have a strength
of up to 80,000 psi but the temperature required to make the joint causes
grain enlargement in the steel and that's not good. I believe the strength
numbers are the strength of the material and not the joint itself. Silver
brazing is sometimes called silver soldering but this is not correct. The
difference is the temperature range, soldering is a process that takes place
at under 900F, brazing is a higher temperature operation in the range of
1100- 1450F.
A good silver brazing alloy is All-State 100 or equivalent silver brazing
rod with All-State 110 or S-200 Flux.

Wayne Goddard
wgoddard44@earthlink.net
 
One tip that I might add is to make your weld joint at least an inch behind your guard.The joint stress will be less back there.I use both 1095 and O-1 for this.MIG or TIG is fine, as well as silver soldering.Dave:)
 
Pretty soon I'll do a Damascus. I can't smith it because of my limitations here concerning catching the living room/shop on fire. I ain't worried about the tang because I'm going to hire one of you guys to weld it for me.

Roger
 
Defenatly go with the silver braze, and at least an inch or inch and half behind the gaurd, after brazeing, give the joint a couple of 'heat blues' with the torch to releive stress and you should be fine. If your worried about the solder joint at the gaurd, just wrap it with a wet rag.

Never tried to weld 1095, but have never had good luck with welds on 52100 and 5160 because of air harding and grain grouth. 1095 is a simpler steel and you may get away with it, but silver brazeing is a lot lower heat, and a lot less risk.
 
I use to weld my extensions but, switched to silver soldering them. I put a slot in the end of my tang to fit whatever rod I use for the knife, at least a 3/8" deep. Keep at least 1 1/2" of the original tang. I keep the slot a hair narrower than the rod to be used as an extension, that way I can press it into place and it will stay that way when I solder. Clean the whole area with acetone and coat with flux. I put a small piece of solder on the top end of the slot and the flame from my propane torch about 2" below the joint on the extension rod. When the bit of solder begins to flow, I go to town with it. I haven't had any problems with this method.
 
The silver braze is the best in my opinion also..
I tried welding on tangs and had the joints fail in testing,and when tested the brazed joints didn't fail..If you are doing hidden tangs you don't need to worry with the carbon steel just use mild steel or a bolt,you can flatten the sides of the bolt after you braze your joint,and have threads at the end to put a but cap on..
Bruce
 
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