Recommendation? Welding Stainless Tang Extension?

Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
1,476
Hey all,

I cut the handle off of a beat up Spyderco Puukko to make a new handle/sheath for it, but I was hoping the tang would be a little longer. I want to use moose antler and stacked birch bark for the handle, and in order to do it the way I want, Ill need a longer tang to be able to peen over the end of the pommel. Ill need ~2" of an extension of the tang for this project.

What kind of stainless steel do you all use for tang extensions that will be able to be easily peen'ed at the end of the tang? Will a cylindrical piece of tang allow the stacked bark and pommel to twist and turn? Is it better to use a rectangular piece?

What kind of special equipment will I need for this? Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Nobody has responded to your question yet, so I'll say a couple of words. Special equipment needed is a welder, either stick or mig. Type of SS, usually something like 410 or 416SS, but 304 or 316 would work also.
Will a cylindrical piece of tang allow the stacked bark and pommel to twist and turn? Is it better to use a rectangular piece?
Think about that a minute, how easy is it for something to spin on a round bar? Even epoxied in place the round could break epoxy and spin. Rectangle for sure.

Since you're talking about welding tang, I'm assuming you're pretty good at welding? Do you stick or mig weld? Of course, you could braze it with fair results if you've got torch rig.
 
I would braze it on there to avoid issues with the HAZ. Probably negligible in that situation, but something to consider.
 
Stuff like this is typically welded before hardening. I'd recommend TIG welding, 400 degree preheat, 304 tang extension, 308, 309, or 316 filler, and a 5 lb. bag of luck for flux. 304 stainless is pretty normal to weld, but not to the type of stainless used in Spyderco blades. Be careful and try to test that weld joint before assembly.
 
Just to add confusion with another option.... I would silver solder a piece of brass to the end of the tang. Either cut a notch in the brass bar so it fits snugly over the tang, or notch the tang to accept the brass bar. The point is to get more contact area for the solder bond. Brass will peen easily and the solder will be more than strong enough. No issues with pre-heating the tang, attempting to keep the blade cool, or dealing with the brittle heat affected zone caused by welding.

Another option it to add a threaded extension, then make a nut (or tap the pommel). That would allow you to clamp it all together during glue up.

As for the epoxy losing its bond, (if you use round stock) just grind some random shallow notches in. That will be more than enough to prevent it from breaking loose. If you use a threaded extension, the threads will be an adequate lock as well.
 
Back
Top