welding up a tri-lam (san mai)

no i laid it on heavy. reaaaall heavy. i figured if a little was good.. why not a lot?! lol.... like i said.. just having fun. but it's gonna get serious next time.

Not necessarily true here! You can trap flux inside a weld and make a nasty inclusion in the finished piece. You want enough flux to coat the workpiece and give it a glassy look while hot. Provided that you prepped your steel properly, the flux is mainly a barrier to oxygen.

One other thing to note. When you're setting the weld, you don't need to hit the billet like you're Thor. A medium blow is all you need. It's more important to move the hammer blows rapidly across the workpiece and set things in place than to smash the crap out of it. If you hit it too hard you'll just cause the layers of the billet to slide sideways rather then weld.

-d
 
that makes sense...

my hammer blows were probably the one thing i did right... i learned a bit about that aspect at a hammer-in not too long ago...

so once i succeed in dry welding some 1084 and 15n20... what more is there to learn about using stainless on the outside... i saw burt foster at haywood with one of his stainless/high carb combos and it blew me away...
 
so once i succeed in dry welding some 1084 and 15n20... what more is there to learn about using stainless on the outside... i saw burt foster at haywood with one of his stainless/high carb combos and it blew me away...

There's lots to learn between simple carbon steels and stainless welding...It's not rocket surgery, but it is challenging to get just right. I also think it will serve you well to get "wet" welding as well. For a mix as simple as 1084/15n20 standard borax fluxed welding is really all that's necessary until you get into some complex mosaic stuff. Of course if you have a welder and love using an angle grinder, dry welding may be just the thing for you ;)

-d
 
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