Went Shooting

Nice shooting. I recommend you get some AR500 steel for shooting. Buy it once and shoot it forever. There is a great company here in Indiana if you are interested ;)
 
gixxer1237 said:
I'm a F-classer and long ranger. You ever want to just talk long range PM me. Nice plinker by the way, and no matter what anyone says first round hits at 500 yards are not easy. Some can make it look easy but it only comes from the hundreds or thousands of round put out there and the data collection becoming second nature. Good work.

ETA- If you want to change your stock and add some versatility to your rig look at the Magpul STR slider. It puts me just right behind a short dot. What scope is that?
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It is a Center Point. I needed something for hunting season. Decent glass but thick reticle.
 
Gret shootin with crappy optics. Put some schmidt and bender on there and look out! Zeiss, swarofski, even a 5 bill leopold.
I shoot 6.5 as well, .260 rem from a stainless model 7. Not a gun known for stellar accuracy. I shoot 1.25" at 100, 1.75" at 200, 2.5"" at 300 with rem factory ammo and a leopold vx3 3-9x. Of course i usually hunt with a 1-4x or 2.5-7x as my shots are usaully 50 yds or less on the lowest setting. Those scopes do double duty on my slug barrel, too.
 
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I've never seen the advanyage of stupid expensive optics. After a certian price you are either just paying for options you want or gaining very very very small increases in some minute things. I understand that you have to pay a little more to get things like truely repeatable adjustments, good glass, and FFP mildots or ranging reticles. But I really don't need a $3500 Premier Reticle for anything unless I was just spending to say mines better than yours. I've beat plenty of guys with NF, S&B ,USO, what ever. And the guy who gets me the most often is shooting a old fixed power weaver. By the way, I don't shoot crap glass, I shoot Nikon monarch. Its what I could afford then, and even tho I have had the chance to upgrade after shooting others scope simular to what I want I could not justify the cost for no practical improvement.
 
I love shooting :)
 
The clarity quality is what your paying for...just as it says, the glass.
Anyone that looks through a NF or Swarovski can clearly see that (no pun intended)
For my money and I have told Josh....Night Force all the way (and a warranty that is second to none)
 
Hi Josh,

Sorry for the delay in this post ... been away for the Xmas break ... looking at your set up a couple of things struck me as potential ways of improving the liklihood of tighter groups. If you change out the 30rnd mag for a 10 round mag which should enable the bi-pod to be lowered to get a lower centre of gravity and more stable shooting position that would likely help shrink the group. Then on the Harris Bi-pod if you have the type which has a "cant" adjustment for shooting on uneven ground ... I really recommend the Pod-Lock after market accessory to "lock up the bi-pod" in position once on target and this definately helps reduce group size.

Optics wise ... I have used all the scopes there are at the top end ... March, USO, S&B, Swarovski, Zeiss, Premier Reticle, and Nightforce. The scopes I use the most are Nightforce. They have the best features for me when tailoring a scope to a specific use ... for your rifle I would pick either a NXS 3.5-15 X 50 or a NXS 5.5-22 X 50. They have 110 MOA elevation or 100 MOA elevation respectively and depending upon how far out you want to shoot I would favour the higher power for longer distance.

The reticle would be the MOAR with .25 MOA clicks in the second focal plane with a zero stop. Worth saving for :thumbup:
 
Thanks Peter, I have been really looking hard at the NXS 5.5-22 X 50. I never even thought about using a smaller mag. Makes a lot of sense, will def try that. I have been doing a lot of mental prep for my next outing. I am really trying to refine my breathing and focus. I have read a lot on shooting in between heart beats. Just wandering if this is a realistic goal, as I am having a hard time finding that kind of focus. Any suggestions?
 
I'm no expert when it comes to long range shooting, hell the farthest I've ever shot was 500 yards (only did that once). Damn, to be honest I shot a handgun at 240 yards before I ever shot a rifle that far.

But, just by handling it a lot (finger f***ing it a lot), the Vortex Razor with the MRAD reticle

http://www.vortexoptics.com/product...0-riflescope-with-ebr-2b-mrad-reticle/reticle

Single focal plain, and the nice feature is it's a 35mm tube instead of a 30, the amount of light it gathers is amazing. Tad heavy (touch under 2 pounds), and the 35mm rings that Vortex makes for it didn't WOW me but it's still one hell of a scope, or at least to my non trained long range eyes.
 
Shooting with breathing control is hugely important when shooting free standing or kneeling ... your inhaling and exhaling moves your chest and in turn your sight picture ... the right way to address this is to take two to three deep breaths before focusing on the shot and squeezing the trigger. You dont want to be holding your breath as this induces tension ... what you want is for your lungs to be oxygenated so you don't feel the need to breathe during the shot ... partially exhale the last breath and you should be comfortable to simply relax and squeeze the trigger.

The more relaxed you are the slower your heart beat ... heart beat is not able to be "controlled" but breathing is ... when you shoot prone and have the rifle stable by use of the bi-pod and a back bag and adopt good breathing technique you should not have any detrimental effect from this.
 
Just to add a bit more to what I have said ... looking at the height of the bi-pod on your set up pic ... the liklihood is that you would be arching your back in the prone position more than ideal ... this would induce greater movement from breathing ... if the rifle is lowered then the position of the butt in your shoulder is moved to a higher one near the collar bone and this minimises movement compared to a frontal position as in free standing or when arching your back high ...

Greater control can be attained by getting the Length of Pull right for your position. Most factory stocks give 13.5 inches as the standard LOP ... if you hold your shooting arm at 45 degrees and measure from the centre of your forefinger pad to the base of your bicep this will give you a starting point for your ideal LOP. It may vary further on the length of your kneck ... a longer kneck usually needs a bit longer LOP ... the advantage of getting this right is a reduction of kneck tension when in the shooting position. Often to get a good sight picture many shooters are having to deliberately hold their head back from the scope to cater for the too short stock. My LOP is 14.25 inches and the difference is very noticeable when in a prone position for a long time such as a comp. I use spacers to increase the butt length to alter the LOP as these are light and do not alter the balance of the weapon ... which in an M16 platform you want to keep light and which an adjustable stock would alter.

Checking that the right LOP has been done is tested by lying prone and getting into position with your eyes closed or covered ... if the natural position adopted by doing this gives you perfect eye relief on your scope then you are good to go ... if the scope is too close to your eye then that is the issue when kneck tension arises from pulling the head back.

Check this position in numerous shooting positions. Standing shooting may require you to feel you are leaning a little forward into the scope if it is right for the prone position ... this is not a problem as a solid cheek weld when shooting freestanding assists in a steady hold but can be too much "contact" when prone ... practise will enable you to find the ideal ... and don't be afraid of altering the scope to get it "perfect". One tip is to attach a bit of cotton with a knot tied in it to the rear eye piece or butler creek cover which when lifted to the eye brow gives the perfect eye relief on the scope ... checking this when prone will enable you to adopt a consistant eye position on the rifle which will eliminate paralax and Point of Aim alterations to your group.
 
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