wet forming leather ???

Dan Gray;
I would be glad to send pictures, but they will have to be by mail. I don't have the equipment to do it on a computer. If anyone will accept pictures by mail I will send, feed back is always good. I should qualify the "batch of 15 sheaths". I normally do not do that many. 1 to 3 at most, but this weekend there is a big trade show in Oshkosh for the re-enacting comunity and these will be there. They are the sum total of work I should have done a while ago.
 
Terry,If your leather is already dyed,it may not be vegetable tanned.
Don't put leather in anything hotter than your hand is comfortable in.100-120 degrees is max.
Only get it wet enough to form. Don't soak it.
Acetone and alcohol are good substitutes for water - Just be careful around flames.
 
bladsmth said:
Terry,If your leather is already dyed,it may not be vegetable tanned.
Don't put leather in anything hotter than your hand is comfortable in.100-120 degrees is max.
Only get it wet enough to form. Don't soak it.
Acetone and alcohol are good substitutes for water - Just be careful around flames.
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both the tan and Black I get are veggie tanned Bridal leather.
died front and Back.. just ask your supplier to make sure what your getting

Terry_Dodson said:
how do you burnish leather edges? .
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Terry,
I burnish mostly with a worn micron belt or the like right on the belt grinder.
it was mentioned that water and heat can remove the oils from the leather yes that is true, but in turn you can make the leather sheath stiffer if you get your way down pat just right. you can find other thing to seal with also that is no as messing, but it's totally up to you.. I use a wax spray that works well...and have had zero complaints since using it for about 3 years or so now...

Doc if you want I will post one or two of your sheaths if you want to send pictures to me..
also when you have pictures developed you can have them put on disk then you can post your own. :) I think :confused:
I can't remember if you have to be a paid member or not
 
Dan, thank you for the offer on the photos. When I set up at Oshkosh tonight I will take some of a few sheaths/knives. Thanks also for the idea of wraping the knife in food wrap when wet fitting. The tape thing was a real chore. Have a good day everyone.
 
Terry_Dodson said:
Dan what is the wax spray that you use, does it get all the way inside?
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it soaks in some but not all the way ..

Fiebing Co.1-800-558-1033
sheath53.JPG


no problem Doc :)
 
After shaping the leather to the kinife, try using one of those food dehydraters. The air circulates and is just warm enough to quick dry the leather and get the hardness you're looking for. They also help prevent the massive withering that can happen with too much heat and time. To seal the inside, BagKote can be sprayed in small amounts and let dry. Can use this on the outside for a seal too. It leaves a nice non gloss finish. I use leather balm on the outside to rejuvenate the dry leather. It rubs up to a nice satin finish. A peice of denim works well to burnish the edges as does a real smooth antler tine.
Rick
 
Thanks for the info. Can you get any of the spray sealers at Walmart or lowes? there are no leather places apparently here, the Tandy store that was here closed a couple years ago.
 
Terry_Dodson said:
Thanks for the info. Can you get any of the spray sealers at Walmart or lowes? there are no leather places apparently here, the Tandy store that was here closed a couple years ago.
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see if there is a tack shop around leather goods for horses..
I use the mail service.. :)
I think I should have stock in them by now too ;)
 
Terry,
I think you can find Leather Balm at WalMart or a shoe repair store. Most of the other products can be found at TandyLeather on line. That tool I described is called an edge beveler and comes in 3 different sizes. Most of my dyes I get from a local western store that does saddle repair and other leather goods. If you buy on line, get the quart sizes when you decide on best colors for you. The cost savings are huge! I would highly suggest staying with the Fiebings brand of products. Don't have stock in them, but quality and results are very consistant.
Rick
 
Terry, Dan, here's a pic of a sheath that was dipped in dye. Even though this sheath didn't have to be formed around the knife, I still use this procedure when dying my sheathes. The knife was a rehandle/add guard job on an old German made bowie similar to a Puma original bowie. I use a worn 320 grit A/O belt to smooth the edge of the sheath.

sheath.JPG


Scott
 
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