Wet weather axe?

Stainless steel does not make a good chopper. Or stainless that does would be cost prohibitive. I would way rather oil my axe head then use a Fiscars axe.

Nonsense. 420HC and 12C27 are both relatively inexpensive steels and they make fine choppers. The problem with stainless in choppers, rather, is that the majority of manufacturers that use stainless to make choppers aren't bothering to heat treat them right.
 
I've been following this thread and finding rather interesting. I've been using axes for 40+ years, While I'm not and expert or a lumber jack, I've cut and split my fair share of wood over the last 40 years. All the axes that I've been exposed to, from my great grandfather, granddad and my Dad have been carbon steel with wood handles.

Over the years these axes have been left out in the elements, stored without any special treatment and on some occasions, just outright abused.

I now collect axes as a hobby and must have around 50+ of them...all carbon steel & wood. Kellys are by far my favorite to collect. These have come in all forms of condition, from pristine to extremely ruff and rusted. My last find was a $4 double bit cruiser...turned out to be a Plumb when all the rust was removed. I still have a little it of work to do on her.

I guess my point is, even the roughest axe head can be salvaged...most users can be maintained with a little WD40 and steel wool. Handles can be cared for with boiled linseed oil. Carbon steel and hickory rules in the axe world. Like all tools they need some TLC from time to time.

Just wondering if we are over thinking the care & maintenance of our tools in this tread?

Sorry, on the soapbox again, Double Ott
 
2 words is all you need to know when it comes to rust prevention---Fluid Film. Spray it & let it set outside, it will not rust. I can buy it at any John Deere dealer around me. It is good for everything. My truck is undercoated with it. Safe to use on all electrical connections because it does NOT conduct electricity. Eco-friendly. You can buy it by the spray can, gallon or drum. They even have an applicator for undercoating your vehicle. Made from sheeps wool oil. Use any axe you want, just treat the head with this stuff.

http://www.theruststore.com/Fluid-Film-C67.aspx?gclid=CJydwPSG3a8CFYFo4Aod-HsjDg
 
I just use clear spray lacquer on a lot of my tools. I rent a 1930's connected farmhouse and the "garage" structure connecting the house and the barn doesn't seem to have any moisture barrier material on the exterior so moisture gets in in just by permeating the myriad of super tiny cracks between boards and the like. If I don't keep things soaked with mineral oil/WD-40 or sprayed down with lacquer I get gnarly orange rust on my tools in surprising locations. Not a big fan of that. Keeping up with the oil on that many items isn't practical so on anything where it's appropriate I use the lacquer.
 
Thanks for the report, Ron.

And hey, aren't you supposed to be on the dry side of the state? What's up with Spokane and all the flooding lately?

Tons of flooding, it's crazy! Feels like Seattle over here this year (tons of rain). Idaho has been bad too. Another update on the fiskars- I took them to the cabin for some road clearing after all the flooding and they handled the abuse, but...... The edge looked awful on both and I have taken the advice to remove the Scandi grind. I have relegated the fiskars to root chopping and other nasty jobs and recieved a wells northern king (which I have refinished and handled) that belonged to my grandfather and is kicking @ss by comparison to the fiskars. Turns out most of you were right to just stick to the classics, but I am glad I found out for myself, it was a good learning experience.
 
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