Wetterlings axe fail....

sisk61 said:
Well i was planning on letting the axe dry in the sun today, but it just rained last night, and it is incredibly humid out. Could someone tell me what to watch out for in my axe in humid conditions? I live in huntsville Alabama, and its usually 70%< from March to September.

I am very thankful for all of your help!
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That's why I like to soak the head in lightly thinned BLO. Soak it in till it's fairly saturated. Once it dries, it hardens and seems to make the eye connection much less impervious to humidity/moisture. Around here that's really important because of our extreme humidity differentials. In the summer, it's very dry. During the winter, you axes hang out in the snow.
 
M3mphis said:
That's why I like to soak the head in lightly thinned BLO. Soak it in till it's fairly saturated. Once it dries, it hardens and seems to make the eye connection much less pervious to humidity/moisture. Around here that's really important because of our extreme humidity differentials. In the summer, it's very dry. During the winter, you axes hang out in the snow.
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Fixed it for you. :)
 
M3mphis said:
Thanks! I don't make grammatical errors never! Translation: I always make grammatical errors. I also love double negatives...
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:D:thumbup:

Easy mistake, though. Pervious isn't a word you often see. Because of the work I've done in MS4 Environmental Compliance (basically stormwater stuff) I've seen it often with reference to pervious pavements. Expensive stuff and it breaks down quickly/has limited load capacity. :p
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
:D:thumbup:

Easy mistake, though. Pervious isn't a word you often see. Because of the work I've done in MS4 Environmental Compliance (basically stormwater stuff) I've seen it often with reference to pervious pavements. Expensive stuff and it breaks down quickly/has limited load capacity. :p
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In my mind, I had intended to say "more impervious." I'm going to blame it on typing with one and half hands...
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
......I've seen it often with reference to pervious pavements. Expensive stuff and it breaks down quickly/has limited load capacity.
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Yes, but they can increase your building's footprint and hence it's square footage and value. Modern building codes sometimes limit the percentage of impervious surfaces on your building lot. Using pervious concrete or pavers allows you to count your driveway and walks as pervious surfaces, freeing up more square footage for building.

Apologies to the original poster for going off topic.
 
Square_peg said:
Yes, but they can increase your building's footprint and hence it's square footage and value. Modern building codes sometimes limit the percentage of impervious surfaces on your building lot. Using pervious concrete or pavers allows you to count your driveway and walks as pervious surfaces, freeing up more square footage for building.

Apologies to the original poster for going off topic.
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Oh yes--it has its uses for sure. Just not for building the near end of a Wal*Mart parking lot out of! :D Pavers are a bit more widely usable I think, for walking paths and the like. From what I hear pervious concrete doesn't handle the weather here too well.

Ever check out the British SUDS method? Very interesting take on low impact development in that it tries to replicate the behavior of the original site post construction, in theory only changing the runoff dynamics in a minimal way. Seems to have been having very good success.
 
Never heard of SUDS. I'll have to google it.

Here in the Northwest we have a problem with new development changing groundwater flow patterns and killing trees downstream from the development. Some years back I built a nice custom home for a banker. Our footing drains around the foundation acted like a French drain and took away the water from a nice old growth cedar in the back yard. It started dropping foliage. We ended up adding a sprinkler system with a head just for the cedar. Last I knew it was still thriving. But I've seen many cedars and hemlocks downgrade from new development die.
 
One of the problems that I've seen with new development is folks don't think about grading first, BEFORE everything else. They just go right to thinking about the exciting part--the structures themselves, and where they want to put them. THEN they worry about grading without realizing that that will effect everything you build with regard to stormwater runoff. Infrastructure needs to get primary consideration before anything else! And of course there's always room in town budgets for new projects but never any to repair catch basins or fire hydrants...:rolleyes::D

Not sure if you've ever seen what kind of condition just about 1 in every 10 catch basins (storm drains) are in--you'd be afraid if you did. Every basin represents a big beehive shaped oubliette under where you walk and drive. When they crap out and no one wants to pay to fix them, that's a scary thing! :eek:

To try to keep it vaguely on topic, I've never found an axe in a catch basin during cleaning/inspection yet, but HAVE found broken hockey sticks, a masonry chisel, and a pair of massive scissors used for cutting shingles. I cleaned the scissors off and while they'll never push-cut again due to pitting (catch basin silt is highly corrosive from all the chemicals and road salt that collects in them) they still cut well on heavy materials! :D
 
Just took it out of the linseed oil. I put it outside so the sun will bake it. I noticed a rust looking substance on the bit after i took it out of the linseed oil, I just wiped it with a cloth and that got most of the rusty stuff off. Im going to leave it out for about an hour or two
 
I have some Swel-Lock coming. I'll be using it to hang the S&N head on an OP Link handle and will pass on the results.
 
Shoot! So sorry cattledog! i havent been on this forum in a while.. I actually havent really touched it. Ive been so busy with other stuff that i just sorta forgot about it. Im thinking about getting a boys axe handle to try out on the head. but after i try this haft one more time! sorry again, been so busy!

-Reid
 
alright. i put a new wedge in that i got from lowes. i put some gorilla glue on the wedge too. it is now drying.

I have a question... When i was hammering the wedge, it split.. is that a bad thing?? i didnt notice until i was done so now i cant really take it out unless it falls out next time i test it.
 
I just got a Wetterlings in the mail today. I sure am not happy with the uneveness of the head. All my Gransfors are not even in the same league in fit and finish..Pretty sure what is scrap at Gransfors goes over to wetterlings for a handle.
P1000750.jpg

P1000747.jpg
 
It is a big hassle to ship it back. I am just not sure why it would even leave the factory. I am little picky but I think this not right. Pretty sure it will work, just my OCD will never get around the crookedness of it..if thats a word.
 
Noneck180 i'd definately send that one back for a replacement if i were you. I would send those pics to who ever you purchased it from that should explain it pretty well.
 
Oh my, sorry about the "finished" product you received noneck180. Whatever you decide to do, hope things work out and let us know how it does.
 
Well I will think about it..I think it will go back. It does handle well in my hands, I am just nervous and getting another one. The retailer told me "keep in mind its hand forged".. I think a kid in high school shop class could make a more even axe head.
 
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