What’s with AEB-L steel?

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Oct 29, 2023
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I wasn’t sure within which forum to post this, so please forgive me if it doesn’t belong here.

I recently purchased a LT Wright Large Northern Hunter in AEB-L steel. I’m not sure to what hardness they heat treat it. This is my first experience with this steel.

I’ve formed a proper and even 18 degree bevel across each side of the blade using KME diamond stones.

I’m surprised with how tough the steel seems. Not in terms of how hard it is, but rather how dense it seems under the stone. I’m not sure if I’m right about that term “dense”, but is increased density a characteristic of AEB-L steel over other stainless steels?

I’ve got the knife sharp, the AEB-L steel and the factory bevel are both good. The steel will sharpen up well, that’s for sure.

Edited because I have no idea what RH it is.
 
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AEB-L is great steel. One of the best stainless “hard use” steels out there. Easily sharpened, decent edge holding, toughness on par with quality Carbon steels, seems to roll before it chips ( depending on heat treatment of course ). 58 seems a little on the soft side but you’ll never have to worry about breaking it.
 
I really like that steel..... It's truly one steel that can do it All.

I prefer it to be Harder though. I like working knives to be 62
And slicers and kitchen ones up to 64HRC
 
Well it seems a couple of online sellers claim 59-60 RH, and I can’t find that information on LT Wright’s website. So maybe it is a 60 RH. It’s a lot harder than 12-C-27, that’s for sure.

Definitely hits it's peak around 61.5 hrc if I recall correctly. I think Larrin's protocol has a lot to do with it's current popularity and justifiably so, it's among my favorites.
 
Yup, it's great stuff. If I understand correctly (big "if"), it's renowned for being tough at higher hardness which allows it to remain stable at lower angles - meaning it can be ground thin enough to slice like the dickens without having to worry too much about chipping in rough use (within reason, of course). Plus it sharpens up easily.

I've got 4 knives in it by David Mary David Mary , each at high hardness, and love them all. I wish it was more commonly used in production knives as well.
 
AEB-L is great. In production knives 14C28N would be pretty similar but you’ll likely not find manufacturers running it as hard as they could, probably from fear of liability and warranty issues. 61 RC AEB-L can do anything.
 
AEB-L is an awesome stainless. It behaves a lot like carbon steel in my experience, but it’s stainless as can be. 14C28N and I’m pretty sure Nitro-V are somewhat similar. All are fine steels.

That LT Wright will take anything you can throw at it.
 
I’m hoping to throw an elk carcass at it in October.
I can guarantee ya that AEB-L properly heat treated will take care of your elk. I run mine at 62-63RC. I use to run kitchen knives a hair harder but have backed off that. They're all the same these days. I've literally made and sold thousands of knives from AEB-L. I use it because it works very well in the environments that lots of my customers are in and what they do with their knives.. I sell many knives to cowboys, ranchers etc folks in the Ag and livestock industries. It just works. Are there steels that hold an edge better? Yes. Are there steels that are tougher? Yes (not many). Are there steels that are as easy to touch up or resharpen? Yes. Are there steels that are more stainless? Yes. Are there steels that do all these things as well? Hmm.......... that's why I use it its a good all round steel that makes a great knife that goes out and does things knives are suppose to do like,.... cut stuff.

I think AEB-L did get a bad rap some time ago as many makers were running it too soft and under 60 its kinda meh. 62-63 no meh.

I've repeated this story several times in these pages in the past but probably a good one to relate again here. I've never done a knife show. But we do set up a table or our booth now and then at places where our target market tends to gather, ropings, rodeos, horsemanship clinics etc. I've talked to enough folks about my knives at these events that I can tell if a person is coming at the knife interest from the cowboy side of things or more the hunter side of things. How? The cowboy always asks how easy it is to resharpen. Why? If you've got 150 calves to do before lunch I don't care what your knife is made of its gonna need touching up. A cowboy is looking for a blade he can strop on his chap leg, the top of a truck window or the bottom of a coffee mug and be back in business. As a recently retired rancher I understand this. Heck I've been to other folks HUGE brandings where I was asked to be a dedicated sharpener. Its a thing. Gonna need to touch up that blade or multiple blades at a big branding..

The hunter wants to know how well a knife holds an edge. Why? Well ya got that elk down. Its coming on to dark and the snow is starting to come in sideways. Your pack mules are getting jumpy cause they and you can hear that bear circling out there going humph, humph! Yep ya got things to do and lil time to get er done. Time to get back to camp or down the hill. Stopping and sharpening isn't top of the list.

AEB-L properly heat treated will handle both situations.

A couple of young Canadian cowboys down with their parents for a big ranch roping competition here in California. They're checking out my knives in our booth and older brother did buy one. If ya look close ya can see they are both already wearing small fixed blades:

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Older brother sporting his new Horsewright knife in AEB-L.

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Some old knife maker was competing too:

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If I'm roping and the wife is taking pictures who's watching the store? Quien Sabe.

I make my own round knives for leather work too. I make them out of AEB-L. They cut and cut and cut and only need a quick stropping (or in a shop setting) a pass or two on a buffer to bring them back to hair splitting. This is 10-12 oz saddle leather. I expect these knives to cut this cleanly in one pass and do it for hours at a time sometimes. I recently made this roundknife for a friend who is wanting to learn how to be a saddle maker. Each roundknife cuts out its own sheath as a test to know its ready to work.

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61 RC AEB-L can do anything.

I just want to clarify this part. What I meant was not that 61 is the ideal hardness for every use, but rather that it could be used acceptably on any kind of knife, from a chef knife to a chopper, or cardboard knife to edc knife. However on a design specifically intended for kitchen or cardboard use, for example, I’d have it hardened to 63. EDC use could be anywhere between 61 and 63 depending on the style of blade and what it’s likely to be used for. Something likely to be viewed as an outdoor or tactical knife will get 61, for example.

I believe that RH = Rockwell Hardness

The Rockwell hardness scale measures many different types of materials, and distinguishes which material category by the letters A through V (with the exception of coatings and case hardening). The proper abbreviation is HRA, HRB, HRC, etc. The Rockwell C scale measures the hardness of steels. So technically the correct abbreviation is HRC, though we in the knife industry tend to drop the H. “RH” will surely get the point across even if it’s technically vague.
 
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