What’s Your Picks for Best Budget Folders for EDC??

[Shorttime]

A couple that I have good photos of, right now. I purge the image hosting account pretty often, and quite a few of the knives I have are discontinued. As far as I know, all of these can be had "new in box", or "new/old stock".

QSP Worker and Alox Electrician

A. G. Russell Medium Barlow Lockback. This is sort of knocking against the upper end of "budget", but some of the knives from that place in the OP are about the same price. So, here it goes.

Camillus Electrician. Seems like they made tens of thousands of these, and when the old Camillus closed up, they sat in warehouses. These may not always be available (I honestly don't know), but as the boxes are found, they're being sold on the auction site as "new/old stock".

Finally, another stock photo. This one is sold as "electrician knife, coping blade", which will tell you how much they give about the product. At eleven dollars plus free shipping if you meet certain conditions, it's a disposable knife for people who don't like folding utility knives. It's a slipjoint of all things, and my wife (who knows very little about knives), was able to cut those stick-on vinyl tiles with it.

 

[gazz98]

If people are looking for a first knife and on a budget, I often recommend the Kabar Dozier in AUS 8. Great little knife for $19.95 and plenty of handle colors to choose from.

Still can't go wrong with a Swiss Army knife like the Super Tinker for $33.

The RUIKE P801 and OKC Rat 1/2 are also on my budget list.

 

[DMG]

Buck 110 ~ $50.00
- Great warranty
- Sheath included
- Replaceable blade
- Handle is very strong

Cold Steel Voyager ~ $48.00
- Strongest back lock currently available
- Surprisingly good cutting geometry
- Can double as an EDC and/or a tactical blade

Ontario Rat 1 ~ $40.00
- Detent dialed in; great action
- Flow-through design makes for easy cleanup
- Also good cutting geometry
- Different colors available, aftermarket scales and clips available
- Choice of D2 or AUS8

Kershaw Blur ~ $60.00
- Aluminum handle available in wide assortment of colors, and aftermarket clips available.
- 14c28n (One if my favorite EDC steels) standard, but other steel choices can be found.
- Carries slim in pocket, no flipper tabs in the way
- Customer support pretty decent

This guy saved me some typing!

 

[Alberta Ed]

Buck offers a bunch of choices in that area.

 

[GregY]

If I was a betting man, I would have put significant money down that the first post would have been Civivi.

And that's why I don't gamble.

Not too long ago I bought my first Civivi, I now carry it every day.

That said my answer would be SAK. I carry a Vic Camper every day, too. Then figure out if your usage merits a locking folder.

Honorable mention to Opinel, but in this era of wonky supply chains good luck finding one at a reasonable price.

 

[chalby]

The Rat 2 is decent but I actually prefer it in AUS-8. It stands out more when judged at the $20-something level. It's stainless and they seem to get a decent heat treatment for their AUS-8. The factory edge is a poor indicator of its true performance. Once you've sharpened down to fresh steel, edge retention should pick up. If nothing else, it's better than 8Cr13Mov in my experience.

It's interesting you say this as AUS-8 is pretty much the same thing as 8Cr13Mov. It goes to show though how the heat treatment makes a difference if done properly/improperly, and it may be that sometimes what is advertised is maybe not what you are getting.

I have a Rat 2 in D2 that has been impressive for a budget knife. I really like the Ruike 801 as well.

 

[Chronovore]

It's interesting you say this as AUS-8 is pretty much the same thing as 8Cr13Mov. It goes to show though how the heat treatment makes a difference if done properly/improperly, and it may be that sometimes what is advertised is maybe not what you are getting.

I have a Rat 2 in D2 that has been impressive for a budget knife. I really like the Ruike 801 as well.

Over the years, lots have people have noticed their knives in AUS-8 holding a better edge than their knives in 8Cr13Mov. It isn't always the case but it usually happens in one direction. Two questions that immediately come up is whether the AUS-8 just happens to get a better heat treatment or whether the average composition of AUS-8 is a little cleaner or more consistent than 8Cr13Mov.

The latter question sometimes comes up for Chinese D2. It might not just be the better heat treatment on more expensive American knives in D2. In the testing done by LTK, the vanadium content seems to be all over the place for Chinese D2. I've wondered if this was a factor in companies like Bestech and Petrified Fish importing K110 as an alternative.

Coincidentally, notice the edge retention ratings in Larrin's recent article. There, 8Cr13Mov, AUS-8, 14C28N, and Nitro-V all get the same rating while 440A gets a higher rating. For people using current production knives in these steels, there is a big difference in performance and 440A is definitely not the best among them. How we experience a given steel depends a lot on how companies translate it into blades.

 

[chalby]

Over the years, lots have people have noticed their knives in AUS-8 holding a better edge than their knives in 8Cr13Mov. It isn't always the case but it usually happens in one direction. Two questions that immediately come up is whether the AUS-8 just happens to get a better heat treatment or whether the average composition of AUS-8 is a little cleaner or more consistent than 8Cr13Mov.

I'll take your word for that. I have heard plenty of people who say they have been happy with 8Cr13Mov and AUS-8 and plenty who have been disappointed. It's hard to take any meaningful data from any of that, as it is almost always just opinion and not from any significant or meaningful testing. I think plenty of people express opinions about this sort of thing both positive and negative based on what they have heard as well, not from direct unbiased experience.

Who knows though, whether some companies get some cheap 5Cr or something and call it 8Cr to save some money.

The latter question sometimes comes up for Chinese D2. It might not just be the better heat treatment on more expensive American knives in D2. In the testing done by LTK, the vanadium content seems to be all over the place for Chinese D2. I've wondered if this was a factor in companies like Bestech and Petrified Fish importing K110 as an alternative.

Coincidentally, notice the edge retention ratings in Larrin's recent article. There, 8Cr13Mov, AUS-8, 14C28N, and Nitro-V all get the same rating while 440A gets a higher rating. For people using current production knives in these steels, there is a big difference in performance and 440A is definitely not the best among them. How we experience a given steel depends a lot on how companies translate it into blades.

I don't know, in my limited experience they are all generally in the same ball park. I have two knives in 14C28N(one of my favourite steels) and one in 440A and I wouldn't say any of them have significantly better edge holding. I'm sure plenty of people can come up with examples of any number of steels that perform poorly though.

 

[rje58]

I have heard plenty of people who say they have been happy with 8Cr13Mov and AUS-8 and plenty who have been disappointed.

I have had good results with 8CR13Mov and AUS8, particularly from good companies like Spyderco, Kershaw, Ontario, etc. No, they don't hold an edge like S30V or S35VN or other premium steels, but they take a good edge so quickly that sharpening is generally quick and easy. Ease of sharpening vs. the challenge of sharpening is just one reason why I have a good variety of everything from 8CR13Mov/AUS8 to S110V. I love the premium steels until it comes time to sharpen them.

In my personal experience, the RAT 1 has performed at a very high level for the money. I purchased my first one over seven years ago in AUS8 and I really put it through the ringer. It was my EDC for a long time, and I used it for everything from the usual opening mail and cutting up cardboard boxes all the way to cutting thick PVC pipe when I had a plumbing emergency at a rental property and I didn't have time to go home and get my tool box! It doesn't get nearly as much pocket time now, but it still looks decent, has solid lockup and I would trust it for just about any standard knife usage.

 

[3D Anvil]

QSP Penguin all day long for me. $32 gets you a slicey sheepsfoot blade in D2, beautiful Micarta scales, and an excellent action.

 

[Boattale]

My vote. It's been carried a bit, lost in the yard, found and carried some more.

 

[JeremiahWeaver09]

buck 110 is hard to beat for the price and its usa made, after that i would go with a cold steel 4 inch voyager

 

[kobold]

If I were to start from zero I would consider:
Victorinox Cadet and/or Pioneer X and/or Explorer.
Spyderco Native 5 and/or Chaparral.
Buck 112 or 110.

 

[Vis07]

Buck 110. Ruike P-128Sf, (This knife is a bad ass budget king.) Civivi Praxis(civivi anything) Cold Steel Voyager 4"(I have one I've been using for 25years, rock solid.)

 

[Chronovore]

I'll take your word for that. I have heard plenty of people who say they have been happy with 8Cr13Mov and AUS-8 and plenty who have been disappointed. It's hard to take any meaningful data from any of that, as it is almost always just opinion and not from any significant or meaningful testing. I think plenty of people express opinions about this sort of thing both positive and negative based on what they have heard as well, not from direct unbiased experience.

Who knows though, whether some companies get some cheap 5Cr or something and call it 8Cr to save some money.


I don't know, in my limited experience they are all generally in the same ball park. I have two knives in 14C28N(one of my favourite steels) and one in 440A and I wouldn't say any of them have significantly better edge holding. I'm sure plenty of people can come up with examples of any number of steels that perform poorly though.

Fake steel stamps are a real issue. That's why it isn't a good idea to buy random knives from unknown brands on Amazon or AliExpress. While we don't see a ton of fake 8Cr13Mov, we do see a lot of 3Cr13, 5Cr15, and 8Cr13Mov stamped with "D2", "S35VN", "M390", etc.

We know that because there are people testing this stuff. The XRF testing and cataloging done via LuvThemKnives has been helpful in sorting the fake from the real. Not only have they exposed repeat offenders like Eafengrow, they actually helped an American company to realize that it was getting ripped off!

Generally, you can trust major brands like Kershaw, CRKT, Spyderco, Bestech, Kizer, WE, etc. to use the steels that they claim. However, a correct steel stamp is only half the battle. The actual performance of these steels will have a lot to do with the heat treatments they are getting. Cut testing from Pete at Cedric & Ada, Super Steel Steve, Outpost 76 and others has been valuable. While each is testing under particular circumstances, they seem to be getting repeatable results and that helps to cast light on the heat treatments being done on different steels by different manufacturers.

 

[mmyron1]

Spyderco Tenacious is as budget as I go. I got mine when they first came out for $35 and is still going strong

 

[bdmicarta]

I've been thinking about this a bit recently. I've done a lot of long jeep/camping trips in the past 16 months. I have plenty of good knives to carry but I don't want to lose a good Spyderco Exclusive on the side of a trail. I have a Spyderco Tenacious Exclusive that probably isn't worth much more than a plain Tenacious so I've been carrying it. I had the idea to get one of the new Tenacious lightweights for a dedicated camping knife. That lead me to thinking about the standard Manix 2 LW but it is quite a bit more expensive. The S35VN Tenacious would be a good option too but it also is quite a bit more expensive. Carrying an expensive knife for camping is defeating the purpose. I have an old Cold Steel FRN knife, I might carry that one, or buy a Kabar Dozier or Rat 1, for now I'll keep carrying the blue G10 Tenacious.