What angle do you put on your knives?

[Steel130]

Depends on the knife/Use...

Could be 10/20, 15/30 or 18/36...

This. I match my sharpening angles with what the steel is capable of. There is no delusion. Some steels can hold lower angles better than others can.

For me M390 had zero problems holding a 12 degree per side edge with a small micro bevel. It probably wouldn't even need the micro bevel, I just use that for ease of sharpening. Take your edge as low as it can go without sustaining serious damage for the tasks at hand.

 

[Twindog]

I use 15/30 almost exclusively on my EDCs and small fixed blades. If an edge can't take 30 degrees for harder use, I'll add a 20/40 degree back bevel. If it can't take that, it's time for better steel.

42blades made a good point about being able to cut at shallower angles with a more acute edge. Edge geometry is really important for shallow cuts. Blade geometry becomes increasingly important with deep cuts, especially when cutting stuff that's hard and/or stiff.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I use 15/30 almost exclusively on my EDCs and small fixed blades. If an edge can't take 30 degrees for harder use, I'll add a 20/40 degree back bevel. If it can't take that, it's time for better steel.

42blades made a good point about being able to cut at shallower angles with a more acute edge. Edge geometry is really important for shallow cuts. Blade geometry becomes increasingly important with deep cuts, especially when cutting stuff that's hard and/or stiff.

For instance, the overwhelming majority (in my experience/observation/opinion) of glancing strikes that occur with chopping tools like axes or machetes is actually due to the edge angle being too obtuse. Because people often use thick edge angles on chopping tools this exacerbates the problem because you reduce the range of functional approach. You try making a 20-degree cut with a 25/50 degree edge and the edge shoulder will be the initial point of impact rather than the edge itself, resulting in a glancing blow.

 

[stitchawl]

I didn't answer the poll.
I stopped actually measuring the specific angles a long time ago. Unfortunately, it was AFTER I spent all that money on various devices to measure blade angles.... The difference between 2-3 degrees isn't going to affect much of anything I need to do.
It's a No-brainer. Harder edge work, more impact, more abrasives things to cut, etc., need more meat behind the edge. These days, if my blade is going to be used for heavier cutting, I use a thicker setting. If the blade is only going to see light duty, a thinner edge is fine. This goes for pocket knives, hunting knives, kitchen knives and craft knives.

Stitchawl

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

About 99% of the time, I don't aim for a specific angle, nor do I give it any thought. BUT, after taking time to measure and/or calculate the angle on some of my favorite edges, they all seem to fall within ~15/30 or less, and they perform very well. I know some of mine are much more acute, but I haven't measured to see exactly where they are. I included both 15/30 and 12.5/25 in my votes, for this reason. I tend not to be satisfied with any edge greater than 15/30, and won't even carry or use anything at 20/40 or more, which I suspect is why all of my 'best' edges always naturally end up at more acute angles.


David

 

[Ernie1980]

It depends on the knife for me: steel and intended use. I usually stay between 15-18 for folders and around 22 or so for fixed blades. Seems to work for me so far!

 

[shunsui]

Not too fancy. I did a 30something inclusive backbevel with a DMT Dia-Fold magna guide, and a 40 degree inclusive micro bevel and touch ups with a Sharpmaker. The Magna Guide is ok for occasional use, but since you have to hold it with one hand and work with the other, you might want to get one of the bench systems for doing lots of knives.

 

[Swoop03]

Depends on how I intend to use the knife, and the steel it has.
For example, I have a few knives in S30V and I can safely to go a 17 per side edge with no microbevel for moderate use.
8cr13mov, I like to go thinner actually and just use them for slicing only. I find that I have better luck with my knives this way.
If I know I'm going to put use through a knife, I don't go lower than 20 per side and I will put a slight microbevel.

Of course all of these numbers a just rough guesses. I used to use a lansky and we all know how accurate they are, plenty of threads on that. I also did some reprofiling by hand and lately I've been experimenting with my new belt sander. My edc right now is a kershaw Chill I thinned out on the sander. I don't know what the edge is now, but I originally took it to 17p.s. with the lansky and I thinned it further the other day and stropped after 3000. Not a mirror polish but darn close. I also didn't try to get it perfect, it's a user. It's a "box cutter" edc if you will. Just a medium use slicer and I'm playing around with thin convex grinds. You know because there is a lot of hype going around about grinds, so I just decided to try the convex out. I'll keep my opinions to myself and leave that can of worms vacuum sealed and left on the shelf though.

My favorite and most used is a 17 ish per side with a 20 ish microbevel. Works great for me.

 

[me2]

I have a trapper folder that I leave one blade at 17/20 and the other at 7/14 w/ a 10/20 microbevel. So far the only thing to cause damage is cutting metal, specifically tie wire for rebar and electrical wire.

 

[Cypress]

My Ultratech (CTS-204P steel) gets a 20/40, as it is my EDC bruiser for now. To give you an idea of EDC use, the last sharpening this knife received was to remove rock damage and snake-blood stains.

My suit knife, a BM 480-1 (M390 steel) gets 17/34. This knife is primarily used to remove errant strings from business apparel and to clean up any spots I may have missed while shaving.

That being said, my rough-and-tumble knives get rougher stones, making for toothy edges. The 480-1 and my other "pretty knives" get an ultra-fine stone and a strop-to-mirror finish. All of my knives are considered "dull" when they cannot easily shave hair.

It should be noted that CTS-204P and M390 are the same steel from different companies.

 

[Magnaminous_G]

Hmmm… take a look at this:

Shallow enough for you? This is my EDC blade. I use it daily. It cuts everything from tough brisket to plastic crate strapping. It has never chipped, never rolled, and never failed in any way.

Want to know why I put an edge like that on this knife? Because the goal of any edge is to be as shallow as the steel and heat treat will support for the given intended use of the knife. That maximizes your cutting performance. My knife will take that edge and perform with it because it’s high quality Paul Bos S30V at 61 RC. It's about the steel. I didn't answer the ridiculous poll because it completely depends on the knife. I wouldn’t do this with every knife, but that’s because I know what I’m doing. OP might want to watch a few Murray Carter DVD’s or maybe read through Chad Ward and Joe Talmadge’s treatises on steel and sharpening, respectively here and here.

Cheerio,

Mag


EDITED TO ADD PORN:

 

[Razorsharp-Travis]

I find 40 too thick for pretty much any steel and there's usually a sweet spot angle
Go to fat and the edge retention drops, go too thin and the edge retention drops. I took m390
all sorts of angles I used to use it at 40 and dropped the edge bevel, not only did it last longer, it got sharper easier, I took it to 10 per fide and 0.006 behind the edge and UT performed brilliant. I took it to 13 per side to make it more durable

 

[Razorsharp-Travis]

Also, I have destroyed shit , stabbed steel sheet, destroyed a phone, scrapped grout covered foam etc with a 16/19 strider and the edge was fine, didn't need 50incl. I did the aame with my Southard at 12/16

 

[bonzodog]

My folders are 20 degrees each side.Works well for me.