What are the best blads for a portaband saw?

LARRYZ10

LARRYZ10

Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
1,427
I have been using Starrett portaband blades in a 14-18 tooth per inch . None of the blades I have used last very long. I do not cut out my blades with the Milwaukee portaband in a SWAG table that I use. I cut nickel silver bolsters and stainless steel pieces under 3/8 inch. Is there a better brand to use and should my blades have more teeth per inch or less. I cut out my blades with a Dewalt angle grinder and grind the profiles on my KMG. Where should I look to find a good deal on several blades at once. What do you guys who use these saws a lot use? Does Lenox make blades to fit portaband saws? Are they the best? Thanks for any recommendations. Larry
 
Last edited:
Blue and white box at lowes for 18 bucks for three blades, I dont remember the brand.
 
Lenox diemaster 2 m42.

Harbor freight has the morse blades that are m42.

The Mose 811 (?) blades are supposed to be wonderful.
 
I use the Lennox blades from Lowes, both 14tpi and 14-18tpi. They do pretty well for what they are. The big problem with using a portaband is the twist the guides put on the blade in such a short run. My blades almost always fail at the weld due to the twist. If you are trying to cut arcs on these saws, the blade life will be even shorter. They are designed to cut in a straight line.

Bob
 
I was using the Milwaukee blades from my local Home Depot. I've since switched to the Lennox blades from my local Lowe's. Mainly because there are 3 blades given in the box with Lennox versus only 2 given with the Milwaukee, at roughly the same cost. They're both decent quality blades from my experience using them. I work with 1/8" and 5/32" stock and use the 18 tpi blades. My experiences with the blades are like RangerBob's. Between the twisting action mentioned, and the heat build up from lengthy cutting sessions, it is nearly always the weld that will fail. This generally happens long before the blade is so dull that it will no longer cut. When it occurs, it's a bit "unsettling" to say the least. Although I've realized that just before they snap, there will be a sound indicator. A "thud" sound every revolution. I just keep myself prepared to kill the power immediately via my foot switch in the event of a break and thankfully my SWAG table prevents the blade from flying or flopping around causing an injury. I try to keep my cuts limited to straight lines or very large arcs. With that said, the lifespan is still good if care is taken and it sure beats the alternative (hacksaw).
 
I always get the Bi-metal, Lennox, Starett or Norse 14-18 TPI and am pretty happy with all three.

As Ranger mentioned, the twist on a Portsaw really shortens the life of even the best blade. One trick that helps is to use them lighty for the first few cuts as a sort of break in. Also I keep a chunk of an old candle and dress the blade with the wax every 1/2 inch or so of cutting. That helps keep down chatter and cools the blade and both help with life expectancy.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I always get the Bi-metal, Lennox, Starett or Norse 14-18 TPI and am pretty happy with all three.

As Ranger mentioned, the twist on a Portsaw really shortens the life of even the best blade. One trick that helps is to use them lighty for the first few cuts as a sort of break in. Also I keep a chunk of an old candle and dress the blade with the wax every 1/2 inch or so of cutting. That helps keep down chatter and cools the blade and both help with life expectancy.
Click to expand...

x2 on the Lennox Die Master Bi-metal. Mine has lasted many times longer than the cheap blades.

Like Laurence mentioned a slow, gentle break-in makes a huge difference.
 
Releasing blade tensioner after use is helpful supposedly. Not in between cuts, but prior to putting it away.
 
Interesting idea PT_Doc - I can see where that would extend rubber wheel life. I've been using "Starrett BM1014 Bi-Metal Unique Porta-Band Blade, 44-7/8-Inch by 1/2-Inch by 0.020-Inch, 3 Pack" from Amazon for $12.25 shipped. Not sure they're the best by any means, just work. These are the "magic" 10 TPI that also work like a 14TPI blade. I've used them for 1/2" aluminum and .098" SS, but does think an 18 TPI would be better for the thin stuff.

I had heard of beeswax or paraffin to lube blade with, but hadn't tried that. I need to remember it next time.

Later
 
I had no idea that Lowe's carried the Lennox brand of blades . I have read good things about the Lennox blades on this forum but I have never used them. I have been disappointed by the Milwaukee blades and the Morse blades but I do not have any scientific information to back my opinion. The best ones I have used it seems are the Starett that I am using now but I do not know if they are bi-metal blades. At this point I hate to change the blades so I care less about price. I will try the Lennox blades and maybe look for the Norse brand to try also. Thank you all for the suggestions. I cannot make knives without the help of you guys on the forum. I only wished that I knew about the forum when I was struggling to make knives by trial and error. Larry
 
Bi-Metal makes all the diff! I don't look at cost, Lennox, Starrett or Morse Bi-metal in 14-18 tip.

I just moved over to the 44 7/8" 8th Dewalt Porta Deep THROAT! Yep! That's what they call it!:D

It not deep enough to do mine!:sorrow: I mean book match cut my 5 1/2" blocks for my full tang knives. The twisting has made for a lot of waste so far.
I had the HF 6 x 4 for over 16 years and had to down side since my large retail and custom knife shop went south due to the retail part of the equation and it was time to go back to my one car garage shop!

In my past experience with the 4 x 6 HF.
The Lennox Bimetal were the top with the Starrett a close second and I am really on my first Morse Bi-metal on the portabandsaw and I can tell its going to put a lot of mileage fast on the blade quickly with the twisting. I apologize if my first comments made it seem like I had a lot of experience with the Morse.
The Morse are USA made and the one thing I can tell you for sure is that I've not found any chinese consumables, belts or blades that last anywhere close to the USA/European stuff.
 
Laurence, The Starett blade that I am using now is performing much better than the previous blades I used. I found the card sleeve that it came in and it is a model BM1418. I can only guess that Bm means Bi-metal. I will definitely look for Bi metal blades from now on and I will try the Lennox blades for sure. Thank you for your suggestions. Congrats on the Dewalt. I have several Dewalt tools and only bought the Milwaukee because at the time it was a new model and had a "deep throat" of 5 inches I think. Larry
 
Larry I've been using the Lennox blades from Lowe's there on Rosedale. I've had really good luck with them. Break in slow and then cut. I use em for cutting out blades, bolsters and pin materials as well as any excess handle trimming after glue up. I use em a lot. If I'm not going down the hill I'll get blades from the Depot up here, the Milwaukee ones, but I like the Lennox better they seem to last longer. give em a try.
 
I work at and industrial plant and we have a master fabricator here (best I've ever seen) he swears by the Lennox bi-metal blades and won't buy anything else. I trust his opinion.
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Laurence, The Starett blade that I am using now is performing much better than the previous blades I used. I found the card sleeve that it came in and it is a model BM1418. I can only guess that Bm means Bi-metal. I will definitely look for Bi metal blades from now on and I will try the Lennox blades for sure. Thank you for your suggestions. Congrats on the Dewalt. I have several Dewalt tools and only bought the Milwaukee because at the time it was a new model and had a "deep throat" of 5 inches I think. Larry
Click to expand...

I agree that the BM most likely means Bi-metal.
I bought the SWAG table for my Dewalt with the foot switch. Its nice to have such a small saw in my garage shop. I will soon get the fence for the SWAG table and see if I can get better book matching on my blocks of stabilized woods. I also had to sell my 14" wood Bandsaw with the adjustable fence. I could get great book matched scales with it.
 
Horsewright, The Lowe's store on Rosedale is on my list this week for Lennox blades. I know that you guys up on the hill in Tehachapi are smarter than us down here because you live where it rains once in a while!! Thanks, Larry
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Horsewright, The Lowe's store on Rosedale is on my list this week for Lennox blades. I know that you guys up on the hill in Tehachapi are smarter than us down here because you live where it rains once in a while!! Thanks, Larry
Click to expand...

I have only seen the Masterband (?) lennox blades at lowes. The better blade would be the Diemaster 2. These can be had online for about $23 for 3.
 
Last edited:
Yeah got almost a whole inch out of that last deal Larry. .967" at the airport which is real close to our ranch. Maybe we'll have grass this year for the cows.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top