What are the ideal features and dimensions for a tactical tomahawk?

[jwill05]

It's going to be very difficult to compete with RMJ value below their price point. Have you made knives or tomahawks before?

No, but it seems stock removal would be cheaper than forging. Granted I could be wrong there depending on the rates for getting blanks cut with plasma or water jet. You could also make the handles diy.

Latest version added a 1/4" in width to the handle.

 

[Riz!]

Ide go the opposite. Call anything what it is plus the word "bushcraft" and boom!

Design it to have the profile of something like a two hawks long hunter/iroquois hawk/gransfors bruks wildlife hatchet, add a short "digging/foraging pick", designate a hammering face on the side of the head with some checkering, a firesteel scraper and a bow drill socket all while keeping the handle ergonomic and boom! Bushcraft Hawk!! You wont be able to stop selling them! Especially if theres a nice leather sheath with a pouch for an altoids tin!

 

[hank_rearden]

my take: the longer the blade (distance from the haft,) the better as a chopper but less effective as a fighting weapon. a battle axe blade should be as close to the haft as possible and less chances of snagging. a "closed" blade also allows one to focus the "sweet spot" easier. compare hatchets with war axes.

ideal hatchet

ideal war axe

 

[jwill05]

my take: the longer the blade (distance from the haft,) the better as a chopper but less effective as a fighting weapon. a battle axe blade should be as close to the haft as possible and less chances of snagging. a "closed" blade also allows one to focus the "sweet spot" easier. compare hatchets with war axes.

ideal hatchet

ideal war axe

The key word being "axe." There were also designs without rounded beards hooking has its benefits too as it allows you to pull and manipulate your opponent or your opponents weapon or shield.

 

[jwill05]

Ide go the opposite. Call anything what it is plus the word "bushcraft" and boom!

Design it to have the profile of something like a two hawks long hunter/iroquois hawk/gransfors bruks wildlife hatchet, add a short "digging/foraging pick", designate a hammering face on the side of the head with some checkering, a firesteel scraper and a bow drill socket all while keeping the handle ergonomic and boom! Bushcraft Hawk!! You wont be able to stop selling them! Especially if theres a nice leather sheath with a pouch for an altoids tin!

I'm not looking to go into business but I have no doubt something like that would sell. However if someone were to inquire I would be more than happy to draw up a design and email them the file.

 

[ThePeacent]

I like the direction of this thread, and wish success to the OP.
If anything I can add, I really like the design, dimensions, features and overall characteristics of the Grafknives Hawks, which have been sold in this very forum quite a few times since last year.

Their H-03 Light Hawk is, IMO, the quintaessential modern fighting/tactical hawk, having the most ideal traits and design/materials for the price in the entire hawk/axe market. Just my two cents

Good luck with the project! :thumbup:

 

[WJC01]

In reference to the new doodle I believe a more traditional blade shape would be more efficient. When braking and raking safety glass that angle on the main blade wouldn't work as well. If your just making one for yourself copy a proven design and give it a shot. Good luck

 

[WayTooSharp]

Handle made like Cold Steel magnum kukri. That's all I care about.

 

[idaho]

No, but it seems stock removal would be cheaper than forging. Granted I could be wrong there depending on the rates for getting blanks cut with plasma or water jet. You could also make the handles diy.

Latest version added a 1/4" in width to the handle.

If I may add some remarks.

Handle is too thick. 1,5" means that you wont be able to close fist on it.
Look at RMJ, cold steel, or SOG - hawk shaft ar not so thick.
yes - large falling axes have large shafts, but look at any hammer or other smaller shafted tool. Shaft are about 1" thick.
Because thinner shafts gives you ability to "flex" your grip during movement. One second it is full strength grip, then you loosen grip and tighten it again.

Edge shape

flat and straight - in fact it is most universal for smallish hawks. You got penetrating top corner and penetrating beard. Good hatchet work
symmetrical round - it is traditional war axe head. Works with long shaft, for "limb removal service". You also got agresive top corners and catching beard. In small hawk you got a lot of bouncing hits (not enough mas behind rounded edge )
downangled, straight or slighty curved - great for tactical hawk - top part of edge is deeply penetrating, edge can be used for pulling cuts. medicore for hatchet work.

there are tens of axe head shapes - it is worth trying some.

Material and workmanship?
Start with hardox steel. It is not best choice, but it should be easily available, not very expensive, its hardness is sufficient and you do not need to heat treat it.
Just laser/water cut (steel supplier can even do this for you) and slowly grind the edge.
And that is all, hawk is ready to be tested.