What are the Kellam S-Line like?

[Daniel L]

I saw the thread below for sheaths for the Kellam S-Line, and it appears to be a knife that hardly gets a mention but owners seem happy with them.

I have the Frosts 760 Craftsman, and I’m interested to hear how it compares to the Kellam S-Line. Is the handle thin and flat like the Frost Clipper or more rounded and fat like the Craftsman (which I like)? Texture?

I like the clip point of the Craftsman, but would like an inexpensive way to try the blade profile of the Kellam-S line before dropping bigger $$ on something like a Kellam Wolverine / similar.

I know they're inexpensive, but I have to ship all the way to New Zealand and pay USD so would like feedback before committing!

Many thanks,

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Kellam sells knives by many different makers. The letter lines especially refer to these makers. For example, Ragweed Forge sells that S-line model as an Ahti. I got one and was impressed by the sharpness and hardness of the blade. For kitchen and utility, it never quit. After my daughter electrocuted her Frosts Clipper I gave her the S-line. As far as I know, she's still happy with it.

 

[Marion David Poff]

I saw the thread below for sheaths for the Kellam S-Line, and it appears to be a knife that hardly gets a mention but owners seem happy with them.

That one is mine, and I made the sheath for it. I like it, and have had no issues with it, but have not worked it hard at all.

I have the Frosts 760 Craftsman, and I’m interested to hear how it compares to the Kellam S-Line. Is the handle thin and flat like the Frost Clipper or more rounded and fat like the Craftsman (which I like)? Texture?

It is much closer in form to the Craftsman, which I also have. It is not as thick as the Craftsman, but only slightly thinner. The grip space is a bit shorter. The texture is a bit coarser in size, but not in texture, if that makes sense. The handle material is a bit softer, though not an elastomer.

I like the clip point of the Craftsman, but would like an inexpensive way to try the blade profile of the Kellam-S line before dropping bigger $$ on something like a Kellam Wolverine / similar.

The S Line should not disappoint, though one thing you should be aware of.... The blade is fixed in the handle, but there are slight hollows that run parallel to the surface of the blade, which you may want to seal. In other words, the handle molding process does not create a complete seal, and material or fluid could get into the handle area, from the sides of the knife.

I know they're inexpensive, but I have to ship all the way to New Zealand and pay USD so would like feedback before committing!

It is a fine knife, so far as I know, and it should provide you with good service.

Recently, I was informed that the knife we are speaking of is made by Lauri of Finland, and they have a very good repuation.

Marion

 

[Marion David Poff]

Comparison Images.....

I shot this first one, for this thread....

And then realized I had other images, that did the same thing....

 

[Daniel L]

Thanks Marion - you're a champ!

It's a little shorter than I imagined, but does indeed look like a great user.

What model Mora is that below the Mora2K in the second pic?

 

[Marion David Poff]

That's a Normark Eric, made by Mora.

Similar to the 2K, with the taper at the tip, but with a longer clip and a more acute point. Sheath had a Viking on it, Eric. Handle and Sheath patterned after the KJ Eriksson #711, the Soft Grips.

Nowhere to be found these days....

Marion

Another shot of it I have on file.

 

[PatriotDan]

Marion is correct, the Kellam plastic handled knife is indeed made by Laurin Metalli (not by Ahti).

The obvious difference between the various Moras and the Lauri S line utility knife is the grind. The S line utility knife has a puukko grind and the Moras a traditional scandi grind. The difference is the angle of the grind which can be seen in the pictures above. Moras have swedish scandi grind and the S line utility knife a finnish puukko grind, optimized for nordic woods. Compared to Moras, the Kellam S line is keener on wood and easy to sharpen yet holds the edge quite well. I prefer it over Moras on typical bushcraft chores and should I break one it's easy to replace. I also really like the sheath although it's obviously of cheap manufacture. The handle should work okay for most.

 

[Marion David Poff]

The obvious difference between the various Moras and the Lauri S line utility knife is the grind. The S line utility knife has a puukko grind and the Moras a traditional scandi grind. The difference is the angle of the grind which can be seen in the pictures above. Moras have swedish scandi grind and the S line utility knife a finnish puukko grind, optimized for nordic woods. Compared to Moras, the Kellam S line is keener on wood and easy to sharpen yet holds the edge quite well.

So, the puuko-type nordic grind leaves a thicker edge. Wheras the mora-type nordic grind leaves a thinner edge.

Does that hold true by region? I guess I am asking if really there is just one 'nordic'(scandi) grind, but different companies and makers interpret it differently?

Interesting.

Marion

 

[Daniel L]

That indeed is fascinating. I assume we're talking about the width of the single bevel relative to the thickness of the blade?

 

[PatriotDan]

Marion and Daniel. There are traditionally regional differences in nordic knives that seem similar in appearance. Eventhough it is hardly ever discussed here or other forums what actually makes Finnish puukko different from swedish Moras and bruksknivs, Norwegian knives (like the tolleknivs) are two things mainly: the blade thickness and the grind angle (a microbevel may or may not exist).

Swedish and Norwegian knives that are similar in appearance with puukkos have generally thinner blade, say 1.5 - 2 mm (0.059 - 0.079 in) thick whereas a typical Finnish puukko has a blade thickness of 2,5 - 4 mm (0.098 - 0.157 in). The other main characteristics that differentiate Finnish puukko from it's western cousins is the grind angle. For Sweden and Norway it's 20 - 25 degree mostly, most commonly at about 22 - 25 degrees. A Finnish puukko has a angle of 15 - 20 degrees, most common being at 17 - 18 degrees. (all angles mentioned are inclusive)... This difference is often easy to tell from pictures. One differentiating feature is the cross sectional diamond shape of one type of traditional Finnish puukko blade. Im not sure if it exists in Sweden and Norway.

These differences have an effect on working with wood although it is smaller when you have a silly sharp blade or when you do only quick rough work or handle softer woods. But on fairly hard woods like the arctic silver birch you should notice a difference.

One thing to notice is that Finland, Sweden and Norway are close and the influence in knifemaking is significant. You will see knife manufacturers crossing borders with their designs clouding traditional differences. Some smiths and manufactures try to appeal for the same market as their neighboring nordic countries, central European and US competitors and try to produce similar products. What was once a very clear line is now not so much...Most of the time the regional influences are still there to see though.

Hope this helps.

 

[Marion David Poff]

Marion and Daniel. There are traditionally regional differences in nordic knives that seem similar in appearance. Eventhough it is hardly ever discussed here or other forums what actually makes Finnish puukko different from swedish Moras and bruksknivs, Norwegian knives (like the tolleknivs) are two things mainly: the blade thickness and the grind angle (a microbevel may or may not exist).

Swedish and Norwegian knives that are similar in appearance with puukkos have generally thinner blade, say 1.5 - 2 mm (0.059 - 0.079 in) thick whereas a typical Finnish puukko has a blade thickness of 2,5 - 4 mm (0.098 - 0.157 in). The other main characteristics that differentiate Finnish puukko from it's western cousins is the grind angle. For Sweden and Norway it's 20 - 25 degree mostly, most commonly at about 22 - 25 degrees. A Finnish puukko has a angle of 15 - 20 degrees, most common being at 17 - 18 degrees. (all angles mentioned are inclusive)... This difference is often easy to tell from pictures. One differentiating feature is the cross sectional diamond shape of one type of traditional Finnish puukko blade. Im not sure if it exists in Sweden and Norway.

These differences have an effect on working with wood although it is smaller when you have a silly sharp blade or when you do only quick rough work or handle softer woods. But on fairly hard woods like the arctic silver birch you should notice a difference.

One thing to notice is that Finland, Sweden and Norway are close and the influence in knifemaking is significant. You will see knife manufacturers crossing borders with their designs clouding traditional differences. Some smiths and manufactures try to appeal for the same market as their neighboring nordic countries, central European and US competitors and try to produce similar products. What was once a very clear line is now not so much...Most of the time the regional influences are still there to see though.

Hope this helps.

You are a treasure trove of information.

Thank you again, so much.

I will be making more knives, I just finished my second knife.

And so, I am intensely interested in the differences between styles and such, and especially so with the Nordic styles of knives. I have often thought of designing a syncretic knife melding American and Nordic influences.

Do you know of any good reference materials concerning the Nordic knives, historically, regionally, over time?

Are there any English sources for this sort of precise information online?

How did you come by this great information?

Marion