Babble and completely wrong.
My father and I can chop logs for fire wood all weekend and the edge of my Wetterlings axe or Cold Steel kukri is still shaving sharp when I return home, only requiring a light touch to bring it to peak sharpness.
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What are the pros/ cons on dullness/sharpness?
- Thread starter Glock26
- Start date
Babble and completely wrong.
My father and I can chop logs for fire wood all weekend and the edge of my Wetterlings axe or Cold Steel kukri is still shaving sharp when I return home, only requiring a light touch to bring it to peak sharpness.
i don't babble pilgrim; my profession demands that i don't...you call it what you want; i don't have time to play with knifes...a utility edge gets the job done and that all the time i have for it...if it needs more i pay a pro to make it so...
- Joined
- Jan 4, 1999
- Messages
- 3,000
OP, you are certainly reading too much into it. Knives get sharpened at the factory by a person and a belt grinder. Not only can it be a fairly random process with inconsistent results but the edge you receive may not be best for your intended application. In fact it probably isn't.
My advice is to ignore the factory edge and put the kind of edge you want for your application before ever using the knife. That's what I do.
The sharpness of the blade is really determined by the angle at which bevels are cut. You need to find the best angle for your application. That would be the most acute angle that will not fail under the application to which you put the knife. If the the angle is too acute, the edge will roll. If it is too obtuse, it will give up some performance. In other words a meat cleaver or camp knife needs a more obtuse edge than a slicer or a pocket knife. Ideally you will find the ideal angle with trial and error.
Generally, factory edges are more obtuse than they need to be. That means most knives will perform better with a more acute angle than the factory applies without rolling or distorting. It really gets down to the application.
Also note that the shape (geometry) of the blade can have as much impact on the performance of the blade as the edge. In other words, the same edge on two different blades may perform differently. Sorry if I confused things.
My advice is to ignore the factory edge and put the kind of edge you want for your application before ever using the knife. That's what I do.
The sharpness of the blade is really determined by the angle at which bevels are cut. You need to find the best angle for your application. That would be the most acute angle that will not fail under the application to which you put the knife. If the the angle is too acute, the edge will roll. If it is too obtuse, it will give up some performance. In other words a meat cleaver or camp knife needs a more obtuse edge than a slicer or a pocket knife. Ideally you will find the ideal angle with trial and error.
Generally, factory edges are more obtuse than they need to be. That means most knives will perform better with a more acute angle than the factory applies without rolling or distorting. It really gets down to the application.
Also note that the shape (geometry) of the blade can have as much impact on the performance of the blade as the edge. In other words, the same edge on two different blades may perform differently. Sorry if I confused things.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Messages
- 305
I think a dull blade can be very usefull... if you carry a multibladed tool. I used to carry a Case Stockman and I kept one blade dull for scraping, poking and other abusive tasks. It was really helpfull.
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
- Messages
- 6,997
A dull knife not only does not work as well as a cutting tool, it is also more dangerous to the user, since there's a higher likelihood that the knife's edge will slip off the material being cut instead of biting into it.
There's no good reason to let your knife remain dull.
If they come dull from the factory, that's called a "bad job."
There's no good reason to let your knife remain dull.
If they come dull from the factory, that's called a "bad job."