What are the top cutter slicer folders

WYK

You look very sharp yourself.
188847.wyk1.jpg
 
WYK, I think I might have heard the same thing from the second someone else in your description. But that someone likes to gossip a lot. Someone (not the first someone from your post, just any someone) should have a chat with the second someone else.
 
WYK said:
I can't say what the best slicer cutter is of the bunch - there's SO many knives out there. But I CAN say I heard it from someone who heard it from someone else that Cliff MIGHT have said it to someone else that it certianly wasn't a Sebenza!

WYK
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You're just trying to cause trouble .... ;) :)
 
I read the review of the twistmaster by Cliff Stamp but I would like to know how the twist locking mechanism compares to the opinel.

1. Are they equivalent in strength?
2. Are they equivalent in easy or hard twisting to lock and unlock?
3. How do the steels of the blades compare, especially in ease of sharpening?

Thanks.

P.S. I really like the wood handle of the opinel vs. the zytel handle twistmaster.
Several dealers still carry the twistmaster even though it has been discontinued by cold steel.
 
there's lots of great slicers out there....just make sure you dont get one of them framelocks.

i heard from someone that they read somewhere that some reviewer said that they are not as reliable as lock backs :D :D :D


myself i like the calypso jr
 
kaosu04 said:
WYK, I think I might have heard the same thing from the second someone else in your description. But that someone likes to gossip a lot. Someone (not the first someone from your post, just any someone) should have a chat with the second someone else.
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dont start that crap again....that was ugly

:barf:
 
Any thin blade that has a full flat grind is made to slice, compared to the thick saber grind or hollow grind blades, it's a geometrical matter of fact :p

So yes, Opinel, douk-douks, calypso and SAKs are very good slicers. The good thing about opinels and douk-douks, is that those are carbon steel knives, so it's easy to put a thin edge that lasts for a while, and cherry on top of the cake, those are really cheap :)
 
My Spyderco Military PE in S30V. I can't believe the cutting ability of this knife!

Rickj
 
I'm not 100% certain that a flat-ground blade will always slice better than a hollow-ground blade.
My Centofante III and my kabar-Dozier are both hollow-ground and they slice just as well, or better, than my Calypso Jr and G-10 Police (both have flat-ground blades).

I'm also thinking that the material that you're cutting might have some bearing.
Like slicing through a paper plate vs slicing through a block of cheese.

Allen.
 
Hollow ground slices well when the blade is only 2mm thick and the grind is high. I still regret trading mine (103V), so I have to get another.
 
guy g said:
If I sharpen it, it will cut what I need cut. I cut stew meat with a machete once just to show myself it coulld be done.
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Meat only needs a sharp blade because it can't exert any binding pressure on the sides of the knife as it falls open and isn't rigid. In comparison take something like a turnip and cut it with two knives and one can take ~10 lbs and the other ~30 lbs due to the geometry of the blade even when they are both equally sharp. Lots of materials need a lot more than just a sharp blade to allow them to be efficiently cut, thick ropes, cardboard, woods, etc. .

WYK said:
But I CAN say I heard it from someone who heard it from someone else that Cliff MIGHT have said it to someone else that it certainly wasn't a Sebenza!
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I can clear up all the second hand info, it isn't the top cutting knife. An Opinel will significantly out cut it, so will many others, how much so depends on the media being cut.

Sebenza4ever said:
Isnt Flat a better slicer cutter?
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It depends on the extent of the grind and thickness of the blade, you can take a flat ground blade and hollow it out and it will cut better, such as you could hollow out an Opinel, just as lots of hollow ground blades can be flat ground and have the cutting performance improved like the Pacific Salt.

[twist lock]

digdeep said:
1. Are they equivalent in strength?
2. Are they equivalent in easy or hard twisting to lock and unlock?
3. How do the steels of the blades compare, especially in ease of sharpening?
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The Twistmaster has a stronger lock, significantly more so. More than once I forgot to unlock the Opinel and just popped the collar off by forcing the blade open, it doesn't take much effort. The security of both locks is however very high.

The Twistmaster is easier to engage/disengage as the wood on the Opinel can swell and make the lock very tight. If your hands get wet or slippery they both are very difficult to move, they should be checkered ideally.

Both blades sharpen very easily as the edges are very thin and both steels machine easily. The Opinel has a slightly thinner edge NIB so will cut better than the Twistmaster, but this is like saying one Olympic sprinter runs faster than another.

-Cliff
 
knifetester said:
Opinel, followed by SAKs, followed by a properly sharpened Old Timer or Case Slip Joint.
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Have you have to tune the SAK edges, mine have been decent but I had to reshape all of them. They are easy enough to file though so it isn't difficult. Just curious if I lucked into overly thick ones.

-Cliff
 
They don't seem to vary much (apart from the classic and others that size).
Most things get convexed if I want em just for slicing but don't mind about the finish
 
Have you have to tune the SAK edges, mine have been decent but I had to reshape all of them. They are easy enough to file though so it isn't difficult. Just curious if I lucked into overly thick ones.
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Most SAKs come scraping sharp with less than optimal edge geometery. Opinels come even duller usually, same for most stockman and trapper slip joints I have used.

However, the primary grind is fairly acute on fairly thin stock and the steels are all easy to machine, so putting an edge optimal for your use is easy enough.

First step for me when I get a new knife of that class is to profile the edges to my desired specs, which vary with the intended users of the knife.

On binding materials the efficient primary grind seen on SAKs and Opinels makes them easily outcut thicker knives with sharper edges. Take a 1/4" thick bowie with a super fine edge and it will still take more than a SAK pressure to push it though a big turnip for example. I have read where you have made statements that are much the same, so I know that is not new to you, just pointing it out.

The fit and finish, including edge finish is usually highest on the Alox models that I have seen.
 
knifetester said:
Most SAKs come scraping sharp with less than optimal edge geometery.
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Yes, I think that in general the design is probably user optimal. The edge is decently thin so it cuts well, but obtuse enough so that it handles really tough work. A lot of people use SAK blades really hard, scraping and cutting dirty materials. I fix them up for friends from time to time and usually cut down part of the edge but leave the rest more obtuse. My personal one is ground really thin, ~10 degrees or so per side.

-Cliff
 
My personal one is ground really thin, ~10 degrees or so per side.
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Is this the Rucksack reviewed on your site?

What tasks so you use this knife for, and is the edge that thin durable enough?
Do you use it for EDC use? Why did you select this model? I like the Rucksack as well, and have switched to the Outrider with eyeglass driver, which I use often. However, I usually only carry that knife when hiking and such. I think the smaller Camper model is ideal for normal carry.

I use a 15/20 sharpmaker edge (brown stones only) on the large blade and a 15 degree fine (white) on the smaller blade. I use these settings becasue it makers sharpening a mater of seconds, just swipe it on the Sharpmaker I keep set up on the counter.

I have run SAK edges thinner, but they deform to easy even in every day use.
 
knifetester said:
Is this the Rucksack reviewed on your site?
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Yes that is my main carry.

Do you use it for EDC use?
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Yes, I pretty much always have it on me. I put a long length of cord through the laynard and ran a series of knots on it for grip when drawing from the pocket.

I don't heavily use it because I always have a host of knives I am carrying for evaluation and they get the main wear. The SAK blade is more of a reference point and mini-tool box.

The edge will see use on cardboard, plastics, ropes, fabrics and foods. I also carry it with me when I am in the woods as I like to use the saw and blade as references against other knives for trap and other carving work and limbing, plus I converted the large screwdriver to a chisel to aid in wood work.

The edge holds up fine, but you can't torque it at that angle as it will just bend, and it sucks as a scraper. Mine is actually filed almost flat to the spine, it looks like hell.

I usually run it after a fresh honing with a tiny 15 micro from the Sharpmaker which is maybe 1-2 microns wide because it is just set from 1-2 passes. Or convex it on SiC paper, which ever is handier. I then tend to maintain it by stropping on CrO loaded leather from time to time.

Why did you select this model?
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It was the only one available locally with ergo handle, saw, and locking blade.

-Cliff
 
Another variate of the Opinel is the Kershaw Le Compagon (model #2950).

Good luck,
Allen.
 
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