What are you using to sharpen your JK knives?

rdrogers

rdrogers

Joined
Jul 19, 2010
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Went back six pages looking for the old thread. I know it's been discussed before, but I can't find it. There are new folks here to hear from as well. So, what are you using?
Lately I've gone back to using a Lansky turn box and a leather strop. I've got a Lansky Master's Edge waiting in the mail box today. Look forward to trying it out later.

On a side note... John, at what angle do you finish your knives? You've said before, but I don't recall.
 
Im using an Edge Pro set at 25*.
I take my edge up to a 600 grit stone.
Ive found that any higher grit than that and the carbides in the blade don't bite as well.
Havent got into stropping yet.


 
If I let the edges go too long, I will hit it with the DMT coarse stone. Usual maintenance is medium spyderco ceramic, then ultra fine ceramic. Sometimes a strop.
 
I have 3 alumina and carborundum stones
DMTs in fine/extra fine diafold and coarse/fine diafold
ceramic rod at 12k-16k (estimated)
and a strop.

The rod and strop are used the most since the ceramic will touch up any rolls or minor dings, and strop for regular maintenence.

The DMTs are for any reprofile work, chips, major rolls, or any other significant work needed.
 
Usually a 1200 grit diamond hone at 20 degrees, followed by wood-backed leather strops with black and green compounds.
 
if i'm reshaping, i will start with a Norton India stone (combo). then, i move to japanese water stones (500/1000/6000). i don't usually go through all of them. i just pick the most appropriate one, based on edge condition. i do not try to go mirror polish or anything like that. i just go for a good working edge.

if i am traveling, i take a long a cheap little soft arkansas stone. it actually works quite well.

IMG_2889_zpsli9hqygu.jpg


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DMT Diafold - usually fine and extra fine.

best

mqqn
 
generally just a quick touchup with an oval diamond stick or a ceramic rod followed by some light stropping.
preferred compound is flexcut gold.
 
Seems like im in the minority with the guided system.
Ive tried sharpening by hand, but always end up doing more harm than good.
Then frustration sets in and all of a sudden knives arent fun anymore. :grumpy:

I bought a Lansky about five years ago and I could get a great initial edge, but touching up the edge became a nightmare because I could never reclamp the blade in exactly the same position.

The edge pro eliminates that clamp and now I have the consistency I was looking for.
Yes, the edge pro is expensive, but the way I see it, if you own top notch knives they deserve a top notch edge! :D
Now knives are fun again!
 
Normally I will use a double sided leather strop starting with the side that has a little polishing compound on it and finishing with the smooth leather side. If it's too dull for the strop I start with a JewelStik or an Arkansas stone. I've found that John's heat treat allows my knives to seldom get so dull I need to use any serious edge adjustments.
 
I use the work sharp ken onion addition for most all mine. Use the blade grinding attachment and free hand it
 
Most of the time I touch up my knives with a leather strop or ceramic rod. When I need to sharpen them I use a coarse/fine Norton India oil stone, soft/hard Arkansas and black hard Arkansas for finishing.

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All I typically use is a ceramic rod. I've been meaning to make a leather strop with compound but haven't yet.
 
this one is for mqqn (the mug)....

so, i was camping this weekend, and i broke my small arkansas stone i usually have with me (dropped it). i did bring my DMT diafold (blue/red), but i started trying to do some feather sticks (just messing about), and i didn't like the feel of the edge. so i broke out the JACK DANIELS!....mug. :D

muuuch better....
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Good one Todd!!

best

mqqn
 
I Love a car window on O1!
I have used it to touch up the edge on my O1 sodbusters, JK USK knife and Mini CBK plenty of times . It is smooth enough to get it hair popping sharp, and the window has enough curve to it to match just about any angle when you hold your knife edge/spine horizontally. You are essentially using the window as a near infinitely variable spyderco sharpmaker.

Find where on the curve you need to match your knife edge angle and mark the face (the window, not the edge) of the glass with a pencil to keep hitting the same spot/angle and draw your knife towards you straight across the window edge.
When done, wet finger and wipe the pencil mark off.

Edit: this also works well for other simple steels, plain 1095 on older traditionals, the beer scout and other GEC products, w1, a2, 1075-1095 crovan. I am sure it would also work on carbide rich steels like m390, s30v and higher, but I haven't tried on the carvide heavier ones...
 
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