What are your 3 most-used manual sharpeners?

Well at work in the heat of battle . . . for drill bits (including cobalt) and most other edge tools we use . . . I whip out my portable sharpening tool roll. Mostly diamond paddles but there is a little flat file and a tiny square diamond rod and lastly there is that steel that I keep trying to find a use for. Takes edge rolling off box knives for instance.

Then there are my small Notron water stones (white is 4000 and the yellow is 8000) that I use for small pocket knives and other small blades. The Dragonfly knife in the photo has ZDP-189 blade steel.

And finally my pride and joy (main Christmas present last year) my Edge Pro. With Shapton stones . . . natch'. When they say you don't need a 220 stone or my favorite 120 stone just smile knowingly and nod then after they have left take out your 120 stone and pet it, give it a drink of water and be glad you had the good sense to hunt one down. I am still learning how to use the Edge Pro. It is very easy to get silly sharp edges however I still need to learn how to make consistent looking edge bevels and perfect mirrors. Before it is all said and done I will add some diamond stones to it and maybe some bare aluminum holders for silicon carbide strips for sharpening ceramic blades. Maybe I am just fooling myself and will have to invest in real paper wheels. About a week form now I should have a nice black ceramic bladed knife and I will find out.

I am a GREAT fan of sharpening jigs but can and do sharpen free hand.







 
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I feel almost out of place. I do freehand some, but to answer the OP's question:

1. Edge Pro Apex- for most serious sharpening- quick and good, esp. with the small knife attachment for folders. Choseras are nice, but factory stones are fine, too. Setup and finding angles (with marker) is lightning-quick.
2. Sharpmaker- for routine maintenance. CBN rods help with really dull knives.
3. Wicked Edge- for precision sharpening, when 45+ mins. is acceptable and (esp. when) ceramics and strops will be used.
 
1) 3m wetordry in various grits on either hard or soft surface. I have gone to the 3k range, but if you are careful and neat, 220, 320-optional, 400 and finishing on 600 with or without a light stropping yields a hearty, sharp and burr free edge that is fine and aggressive at the same time.

2) Freehand-- Atoma140 if blade is trashed or to reprofile, followed by dmt 3x8 diasharps extra coarse, coarse, fine, extra fine and double extra...Jason B gave priceless advice to another member about doing a clean job and stopping at coarse-325grit followed by 1 micron diamond paste on a strop (lightly though). I took that advice and the resulting edges are angry, aggressive, and perfectly apexed. The tooth level can be adjusted with the strop.

3) Worksharp Ken Onion with blade grinder and all the belts up to 6k.

Recently, I have been on a sandpaper kick and use that the most. Contrary to widely believed Internet lore, you can do a v edge on 3m. Just use an appropriate backing like those granite slabs you can buy at Home Depot. I do have an EP apex but I rarely use it because of the mess and the fact that doing a fixed blade bigger than 4 inches is maddening.
 
For most of my knives
DMT Course Bench Stone
King 1000
King 6000
Leather strop with compound

For knives that I want to look extra nice
Lansky Clamp System

For the field
A DMT C/F Diafold
A variety of sandpaper sheets
A small leather field strop with black and green compound
 
I have a cheapo diamond benchstone that has been used so much it is a nice, smooth, fine grit in certain spots. Gets any knife hair popping in minutes.

For a little more refining, I freehand the medium and ultra fine triangle ceramic rods from the spyderco sharpmaker. It is also amazing on my machetes too, freehand!!

Then I have some Arkansas stones, mostly black surgical and translucent. Have some great pocket sized ones for on the go, they are what I bring with me everywhere along with the Lansky blade medic( only use the diamond rod and ceramic side on it, never use the pull through part.

Off topic, but gotta give Two thumbs up for my "real sharp, sharp machine". I got recommended this, glad I got it. My first guided system, wow does it give a perfect edge, and super quick!
 
Norton Crystolon coarse/fine 8" (JB8) or 12"( JT930)
8" Norton India coarse/fine (IB8)
12" JewelStik very fine
I have thought about a "guided" system, but none that I could find are set up for angles less than 15 degrees. Most of my blades have a bevel of less than 10 degrees.
scott
 
Yep. After a thousand years of trying to get that perfect edge freehand, I caved in and bought an Edge Pro. It's the only way to go for me. Just that pesky little shake I've developed in my hands made it near impossible to get my old hair popping, mirrored edge. Then came the Edge Pro to give just enough stability to take all the shake out and hold that consistent angle and bang! Super Edges return even better than I could ever reach freehand. I use adhesive back diamond lapping film for just about everything now followed with "Roo" strop loaded with .25/.1 CBN....or paper/CBN over a stone. Mirror up everything, then follow with a micro bevel however toothy the steel likes, put everything away and return the kitchen to cooking duties.
 
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