What are YOUR folder making problems! Sound off!

Hardened 440C Pivot Pins and Stop Pins.
Call Roger D. Smith-Precision Components Mfg.
972-274-1033. Roger speciallizes in small round components. He does work for several custom makers and some semi factory.
Something that works good is to get a group together, come up with a standard pin and pivot and buy by the 1000's. Makes a big difference in pricing. Larry D.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Matt Shade:
Milling the locks ! I have to do it with a file. You know what a pain in the ass it is when you get to that file a little and check file a little and check file a little and check.... THREE DAYS LATER, I think its getting close
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Then its just the usual difficulties, somethings slightly off here or there. You split a scale or overpeen a pin.
I've just about finished customizing a spyderco delica. I've got to post another thread and get some ideas from some of you guys that make it looks easy, before I can show it to you though. I've got one last problem that didn't show up until I had put it together permanently
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Matt you might try this. First get hold of a square carbide indexable tooling insert. MSC or try a local machine shop. They have lots of use one laying around and they work fine.
You'll use this insert and a small pair of vise grips later in this process.
Ink the tang area. Assemble the liners, pivot, and stop pin.
Hold tight pressure on the open blade and with a new xacto knife scribe the tang line onto the lock. Take the liner off, bend the lock. Lay the insert on the lock area, carefully line up one edge of the insert along the scribed line, clamp in place (I silver soldered my insert onto the fixed jaw of my vise grips.) Now mosey on over to the ginder and present the clamped lock and insert to the grinder. Grind down until the carbide bottoms out on the wheel and you're done! Takes about 2 minutes a knife. Oh, unclamp the lock and lightly, very lightly
touch the lock face (edge on) to a deburr wheel. I got this from Allen Elishewitz and it took the fustration out of locks for me.
Hope this helps. Larry D.
 
Detent placement... I learned to make folders from Rex Robinson, and still use the method he showed me. I install the detent ball and assemble the folder with the unhardened blade (after everything else is finished). Close the blade and tape securely in place with several wraps of electrical tape. Place assembled folder on some block of steel so that it is level and supported. Place a punch pin on the detent ball and smack it with a hammer, driving the ball into the blade. Dissassemble and replace the detent ball if it got too flattened. Exact match on the ball / hole and "sucks" the blade in every time.

Dan


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Daniel Fronefield
"Specializing in meteorites and other exotic materials"
dfronfld@hiwaay.net
http://hiwaay.net/~dfronfld
 
I finally started using a mild steel center with a sterling tube soldered over it. The sterling needs to be leveled off to just roll over the stone or small ears can be cut with a jewelers saw and filed smooth and bent over the stone. Am I a knife maker or a jeweler?
 
Larry D:

Thanks for the contact info!
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Oh.....Just in case anybody's looking for stainless steel thumb studs - Jim Poplin is now making several styles, including double-ended.
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Tom Anderson
Hand Crafted Knives


www.andersoncustomknives.com

[This message has been edited by Tom Anderson (edited 05-04-2001).]
 
Looks like you good folks are havin a ball! Detent ball!
Any case, I make sliplock folders only. My biggest pain is spring tempering and spring tension.
For a free book on making sliplock folders go to www.burgerknives.web.za , follow the workshop tips link. It is not complete yet, as there is still a lot of editing to be done. Mstly spelling errors!



[This message has been edited by RSA Knifemaker (edited 05-05-2001).]
 
I don't have a problem making all the parts for folders. My problem is makin em all fit together so the thing works right!
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Take care!! Michael
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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!

Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!

[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 05-06-2001).]
 
I've never had a single problem with anything in folder making. Everything always comes out perfect and works smoothly. Oh and I've got some prime ocean front property in Arizona for sale.

Arthur D. Washburn
ADW Custom Knives
www.adwcustomknives.com
 
Thanks for the tips guys.Those will help a lot when I start on liner locks, unfortunately I was talking about lock backs. I'm going to switch over to liner locks as soon as I finish the knives I've got started.After looking at them a little I think I may have a little better setup for making them than I do for the lockbacks. I'm going to copy and paste this thread into a word file so I can save it. Theres been some good tips so far.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
How about drilling those square bottom holes for the stop pin and getting those holes to line up? That method seems to make for the best fit but how do you do it? I'm assuming an end mill.......

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Peter Atwood

email: fountainman@hotmail.com
 
DSon, outstanding tip on using a carbide blank as a guide/stop. Thats an excellent idea anytime you need to grind something accurately.
I think my biggest problem in folder making is not taking the time to make masters, drilling templates, and try plates. I know thats what you're supposed to do and that those items make folders alot easier to make but for some reason I just haven't taken the time to make them. Guess that should be my next project, huh.

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Take care!! Michael
jesus.jpg


Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!

My Web Site
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
dont worry, In time you will have made plenty of mistakes and they can be your templates....no need to make another!
 
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