What are your opinions of this forge?

Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
402
http://cgi.ebay.com/BLACKSMITH-LP-G...ultDomain_0&hash=item2eae630ef5#ht_1042wt_911

I've been pricing parts for making my own forge out of an old propane tank, with a 2" thick layer of inswool and a 3/8" layer of satanite inside, and a kiln shelf to rest the knife on. All that plus the weed burner, pressure regulator and hose is getting rather close to the cost of the forge at the link above. Plus I'd have a decent amount of work ahead of me for the home made forge.

I eventually want to work with damascus, so I'm thinking the downside to the forge above is that the opening isn't big enough for an average size damascus billet.


As always, I appreciate all of your advice and take it all into consideration.
 
These box type forges are not the best for knifemaking. I prefer the flame to swirl inside the forge rather than blow directly on the steel. Though this forge will do OK for basic forging, it will cause excessive scale and decarburization. Also if you use flux in the forge it will eat the soft brick like cotton candy. You can build a forge for the same or better price. Yes it will take a few hours of work but you will have what you need the first time.
 
You make a good point...although I don't know much about flux yet, but I really like the hamon look. I think that's relevant...
 
It doesnt take as much work as you think it will. I just finished my first regular use one in a stove pipe (I made a coffee can forge first) and have an empty propane tank set up for my next one. Plus, once you start.. you just cant stop hehe. I have already started picking up some pieces for more burners and figuring out what to make a bigger forge out of. As for flux, 20 mule team borax seems to be popular, so its what I picked up.
 
I'm really confused on the weed burner portion. I know I need the actual weed burner, pressure regulator and hose. But I've seen a couple posts where people had the average bbq propane tank, and their forge wasn't heating enough, and they had to go get a 100lbs tank to overcome the output problem with smaller tanks...

Is all that true? What exactly will I need on the weed burner end of the forge?
 
I'm not sure how my favorite knife, location and hobbies are relevant...

Anyway, I will be starting off by doing my own heat treating, quenching, etc. Eventually when I get enough knives under my belt, I'd like to start damascus.

There isn't much of anything in the stickies regarding weed/venturi burners and requirements for specific forge set ups.

*Edit* btw, most links in the stickies are giving a 404...they need updating.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for filling out your location at least, that's a start
read "about working the 3 steel types"
maybe many of the links are broken, sorry about that

read what stickies work, that forge will work for basic shaping of small pieces of metal, not much more. it is a long journey, welcome to your first step

-Page
 
As far as a weed burner is concerned. I have used one and it did work, however here again it is no the most efficient means or the best. I use a forced air forge and it gets up to welding temps no problem. The 20lb tank will work, used one for years. The problem is they freeze up when you use too much flow. You can put the tank in a tub of water. If you really want a venturi type burner google t-rex burner. I have heard great reviews.

By the way your location will let us know if you are close enough to offer to help out with an invite to one of our shops. If you get down to the Salem area drop me a line before you come and maybe we can set up a visit.
 
I actually stumbled across the Ron Reil burner design, that seems to be right in my price range. I'll probably pick up the hose and pressure regulator from elliscustomknifeworks, along with my inswool, satanite, ITC-100 and the hard fire brick for the shelf.

Salem is a ways away, but if something does bring me down that way, I'll be sure to contact you.
 
I made my forge out of a 5-gallon air tank. They show up on craigslist for $5 or free pretty often, and the steel is thicker than a propane or freon tank. Plus, it already has feet.

Dig this - I got my air tank free because it was past the expiration date stamped on the body.
 
I'm not trying to be mean, but that forge is about the worst one you could choose for Bladesmithing applications. Square design, especially with the burners arranged as they are, spells nothing but trouble for high carbon/alloy steels.

I've had a number of people who purchased that very forge call/email me, wanting to know what they could do to make it better, and in all honesty, there's not much you can do with it. While it will work for simple forging, on materials where uneven heat and hot spots don't make a difference, it's just not a good choice for the type of steels we use in Bladesmithing.

Two things that I think are requirements for for a viable Bladesmithing forge:

1. Round design
2. Burner(s) that enter on a tangent to create a swirling effect.
and a third....
3. KEEP IT SIMPLE
With a little research, it's fairly easy to build this type of forge, and in most cases if your frugal, and have access to a scrapyard, you can do it for less than $200.
I am a strong advocate of keeping it simple where forges are concerned....the more "bells and Whistles" you add to a forge, the more there is to go wrong.
I have spent a lot of time trying to help folks who insisted on using over built burners, PIDs, gas valves, and a number of other things on their forges. In most cases they wound up having to eliminate most those things to get their forges operating correctly.
 
Here is link to Indian George's horizontal forge. This forge gets "real hot" in excess of 2200oF according to his digital pyrometer, more than enough for welding.

IG has recently modified his design to extend the burner tip life, but this will certainly work for a long long time. At IG's their are many people working off of George's welding forge.

IG hosts several Hammer Inn's during the year, at least three minimum, and this is not counting the guests over every weekend, his welding forge is in constant use. His new revision has not been proven yet as far as longevity, but it does get as hot as his design that is in this link. I say welding forge because he has four other work stations all with the same style of forge, but the welding forge is set right by his 30 ton hydraulic press. George's smithy is very well equipped for hosting this type of event.

http://www.indiangeorgesknives.com/building_a_forge.html
 
I do Damascus billets in a modified IG design forge the thing has more capability than most people need, I'm going to do another one with a poured refractory liner so I don't have to replace insulation IG's design works, his hammerins are a great get together
I recommend them both. IG on the other hand ;D he'll feed you some of that crazy portugee relish and you will be able to forge Damascus by farting

-Page
 
Back
Top