What are your preferred methods to restore an axe head?

The best I've found is Brownell's Cold Blue, it's called Oxpho Blue. You can also use a browning solution if you want a brownish color instead of dark blue/black color. I have used Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown. You have to heat the metal up before applying, but it won't be near enough to screw up the heat treat. I like plain a plain old silver finish so I just use oil to protect the metal. Fortunately I live in a dry climate so rust isn't as big of an issue as other places.

Even if it doesn't require that much heat I'll probably still avoid that one, I'm still wicked cautious when I'm using power tools so I don't mess up the temper. But I'll give one of them a shot, to me it depends on the head, some of them I prefer with a nice patina on it and then some I prefer nice and cleaned up and silver. Although I never go as far as to put a mirror polish on them, it does look cool sometimes but it's a total waste of you're ever going to use it and even if it's a wall hanger I just prefer how it looks when it's cleaned up but not going that far with it.
 
I have a question and I thought this would be a decent thread to ask in. Sometimes when I use vinegar to remove rust the bit of the axe turns black. Is this how far the axe is hardened? Or is this only on older axes where they forge welded a different steel in there for the cutting edge.
 
I have a question and I thought this would be a decent thread to ask in. Sometimes when I use vinegar to remove rust the bit of the axe turns black. Is this how far the axe is hardened? Or is this only on older axes where they forge welded a different steel in there for the cutting edge.

I'm not an expert so someone may be able to answer it better but from my understanding the difference in color after a vinegar bath is from the different makeup of the metal. The bit end is a harder metal because it obviously receives the bulk of the force, and also why the poll end will mushroom when used incorrectly because it's a softer metal. Now I can't tell you why some don't turn black, maybe it was made differently or the vinegar doesn't penetrate enough? Not sure you'll have to get someone else's take on that. But if you sand it down after the vinegar it won't stay different colors, only the surface changes so you haven't ruined it by any means.
 
May depend on the type of steel Trevor51, but it is in fact where the steel was hardened. If it happens to be an overlaid steel then the effect is pretty similar. Sometimes you can see what appear to be multiple lines which may be the method in which they were quenched or that an overlaid bit was quenched deeper than the bit steel. In any case it's just the acid interacting with differing hardness and/or type of steel in different ways.
 
I’ve been bitten by the axe bug and have “cleaned up” a few in the last week or so. I was about to ask what everyone’s preferred method and level of refurbishment was when I came across this thread so I’m bumping it for other newbies and further discussion.

10 mins with a wire brush on my drill took this:

0154F203-B736-483D-9313-431AFE25E5A8.jpeg

To this:

57563A68-D079-4726-AC5F-7A74F3703FE0.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I Love the flint edges that have the weight stamp on top. They may not be “rare” but I would say uncommon.

Good job man!
 
Back
Top